designing traction/ladder bars
#1
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designing traction/ladder bars
i want to build something to control axle wrap/hop, i plan to hook to a sled about 3-5 times a year, and i drag race about 8-10 times a year...
question is will a single heavy duty bar from the frame to the bottom of the u-bolts on each side the axle be enough, or will it be necessary to go to a 4 bar (2 per side) system at the top and bottom of the axle?
question is will a single heavy duty bar from the frame to the bottom of the u-bolts on each side the axle be enough, or will it be necessary to go to a 4 bar (2 per side) system at the top and bottom of the axle?
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If you put both on the bottom of the axle it won't do anything. What you could do is take one side to a low point on the axle and the other side to a high point. that would help a lot. Two links aren't as good as 4 but it will work.
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My bars are mounted on the top and bottom of the rear axle and then connect to the frame. Now mine connect directly to the frame so you get a little vibration under light torque, I think you can use a drop shackle to eliminate this but don't think it is quite as strong. I did not fabricate these myself so I am not an expert or anything.
![](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/41712dodge_pice_2_033-med.jpg)
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Well Rocklogic is located in West Jordan Utah, Mine cost me 700$ they use 3" tubing that is almost solid all the way through. I would think that they can build you some and then ship but my truck was at the shop when fabricated.
www.rocklogic4x4.com
Ask for Seth and say Jared told you to call.
www.rocklogic4x4.com
Ask for Seth and say Jared told you to call.
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Just keep in mind, a well known individual on the TDR designed really nice traction bars about 3-4 years ago for 2nd gen trucks. They only mounted on the bottom of the u-bolts if I remember... one bar on each side. You don't need a top and bottom mount.
Guys really liked them and they worked great until people started experiencing tiny cracks on the frame where the forward end of the bar mounted. Turns out there needed to be more re-inforcement and force distribution at the frame end. Like extra pieces of steel sandwiching the frame in between to help distribute the forces.
I do not have direct experience with this, but it is something to keep in mind.
Steve
Guys really liked them and they worked great until people started experiencing tiny cracks on the frame where the forward end of the bar mounted. Turns out there needed to be more re-inforcement and force distribution at the frame end. Like extra pieces of steel sandwiching the frame in between to help distribute the forces.
I do not have direct experience with this, but it is something to keep in mind.
Steve
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here is a pic of my basic design for the mounting plate at the frame, im gonna make it about 8" long out of 1/4" or maybe even heavier steel plate, it will get bolted to the frame as well as stitch welded around the entire perimeter and also on the bottom piece
![](http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/908/2533/63878.jpg)
#10
There's been a lot of discussion on the different site about ladder bars... And everyone has their own opinion... the issue with the 4 bar setup.. or bottom and top attached solid to the axle.. and one pivot in the front is that as the spring compresses it needs to move a little.. and could cause a little binding... I was always planning on building a set of single bars on the bottom with heims on each end.. but I've been really looking at the style with the bar attached above and below the axle.. with a shackle on the front and liking that design..
If I was pulling.. It would probably be above and below the axle.. with a single solild mount in the front... (who cares about binding when your pulling...
)
Bryan
If I was pulling.. It would probably be above and below the axle.. with a single solild mount in the front... (who cares about binding when your pulling...
![roll](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/roll.gif)
Bryan
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I am working with a local guy I know and we are getting a set welded up this week.
I'm using 2" OD 1/4" DOM tube, 80" long. It will be one bar to the bottom of the u-bolt, to a bracket on the frame.
I will post pictures when I have them, and also be sure to post how they work as I will be testing them out Saturday at the DHRA pull.
The last time I pulled without traction bars, I rubbed all the paint off the front of my fenders!
Check it out here
Click here to see Video
Click here to see Video
I'm using 2" OD 1/4" DOM tube, 80" long. It will be one bar to the bottom of the u-bolt, to a bracket on the frame.
I will post pictures when I have them, and also be sure to post how they work as I will be testing them out Saturday at the DHRA pull.
The last time I pulled without traction bars, I rubbed all the paint off the front of my fenders!
Check it out here
![](http://thumbs.vidiac.com/df91e350-afb9-4785-95ab-120e7a73d703.jpg)
![](http://thumbs.vidiac.com/1d4bdb81-1240-4ac0-abb8-1c6c76d88a99.jpg)
#13
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im thinking of making my bars into the traditional triangle shape with two axle connections and a single frame connection. gonna be hard since i dont have a tubing notcher