Delivery valves with stock injectors?
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Delivery valves with stock injectors?
I've been waiting awhile for some injector cores for my Dodge.. I can't really have the truck down very long.. I might be able to drive another vehicle for a few days though..
Here are my options:
1. Pull injectors from my truck and let it sit until I get the modded ones back
2. Throw delivery valves in my truck for now
3. Rag on the guy that was supposed to get the cores done to see if I can get anything out of him
Also, does anyone have a link to some injector removal instructions?? I might just pull them and send them out tomorrow.
Will I actually see decent increases with stock injectors with high flow delivery valves if I just leave the stock injectors in??
I have a truck pull next Thursday so I need to figure out what I need to do..
Thanks!
Here are my options:
1. Pull injectors from my truck and let it sit until I get the modded ones back
2. Throw delivery valves in my truck for now
3. Rag on the guy that was supposed to get the cores done to see if I can get anything out of him
Also, does anyone have a link to some injector removal instructions?? I might just pull them and send them out tomorrow.
Will I actually see decent increases with stock injectors with high flow delivery valves if I just leave the stock injectors in??
I have a truck pull next Thursday so I need to figure out what I need to do..
Thanks!
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Injector removal/install instructions:
1 lug nut
1 1-1/4" or 1-3/8"length of 1" PVC or electrical conduit
(optional) 1 flat washer large enough to fit over the top of the injector to keep PVC/Conduit from spreading
1 15/16" deep socket
1 Injector install kit
Acouple scotch brite pads
Remove the air intake horn and bend the wastegate to AFC housing line up and out of the way.
Take the injection lines loose from the pump and each injector, then remove the 2 10mm intake plenum bolts which also hold 2 injection line retainer brackets, this way you can remove all the lines together and not get them screwed up. Remove the 6 return line banjo bolts from each injector and set them aside in a clean location. Remove the 15/16" hold down nut. Place the PVC or conduit over the injector, then the washer over that, then thread the lug nut down until it "pops" the injector up out of its well in the head. Now tear a pice of scotch brite pad small enough to fit down into the well and break up any carbon build up down there (very important for a good seal). Install your new copper washer onto the inew injector and add a small thin coating of antisieze to the injector body. Place injector in its well and screw in its retaining nut, torque to 44ft lbs, place the new square Oring into the top of the hold down nunt and repeat x5.
When you're cranking the engine over crack 2,3,4 at the injector until it tries to run, tighten the lines and enjoy.
1 lug nut
1 1-1/4" or 1-3/8"length of 1" PVC or electrical conduit
(optional) 1 flat washer large enough to fit over the top of the injector to keep PVC/Conduit from spreading
1 15/16" deep socket
1 Injector install kit
Acouple scotch brite pads
Remove the air intake horn and bend the wastegate to AFC housing line up and out of the way.
Take the injection lines loose from the pump and each injector, then remove the 2 10mm intake plenum bolts which also hold 2 injection line retainer brackets, this way you can remove all the lines together and not get them screwed up. Remove the 6 return line banjo bolts from each injector and set them aside in a clean location. Remove the 15/16" hold down nut. Place the PVC or conduit over the injector, then the washer over that, then thread the lug nut down until it "pops" the injector up out of its well in the head. Now tear a pice of scotch brite pad small enough to fit down into the well and break up any carbon build up down there (very important for a good seal). Install your new copper washer onto the inew injector and add a small thin coating of antisieze to the injector body. Place injector in its well and screw in its retaining nut, torque to 44ft lbs, place the new square Oring into the top of the hold down nunt and repeat x5.
When you're cranking the engine over crack 2,3,4 at the injector until it tries to run, tighten the lines and enjoy.
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Originally posted by Bobcat698
Difference, ok.. But any ideas how much power there is to be gained?
Also, should I go with 191's or something bigger? (laser cut)
Thanks!
Difference, ok.. But any ideas how much power there is to be gained?
Also, should I go with 191's or something bigger? (laser cut)
Thanks!
Its not much more than 5 or so peak horsepower, but they definately improve bottm/midrange and spool larger turbos well. I've ran 131's, 181's and 191's. The 191's were a noticeable improvement over the 181's. They also had much more off boost smoke and higer EGTs. I wouldnt mind trying some 022's or laser cuts but I bet they smoke a lot.
#7
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Well that would be good to spool this turbo better.. Running an HX40 with 16CM non-wastegated housing currently... It takes a sec to spool.
I have my timing at 16º so it runs quite well.. Now I need more FUEL..
Just reading here:
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...WPROD&ProdID=8
Why do they advertise 40HP gain at the wheels?
Also, I don't get this line of your post "crack 2,3,4 at the injector until it tries to run"
Thanks!
I have my timing at 16º so it runs quite well.. Now I need more FUEL..
Just reading here:
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...WPROD&ProdID=8
Why do they advertise 40HP gain at the wheels?
Also, I don't get this line of your post "crack 2,3,4 at the injector until it tries to run"
Thanks!
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#8
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Well everything I've read previously stated that larger that stock DV's didnt add preak horsepower. However I remember a member here saying his JR Adkins laser cuts added somthing like 90hp. I never got a chance to dyno my truck between DV's so I cant say for sure.
I think 191's would help spool your 40 nicely. 181's helped when I had a CityDiesel 40/16 so I'm sure 191's would even moreso.
Once you have everything back on the engine loosen the inection lines at injector #2, 3, 4 to help bleed air out of the system.
I think 191's would help spool your 40 nicely. 181's helped when I had a CityDiesel 40/16 so I'm sure 191's would even moreso.
Once you have everything back on the engine loosen the inection lines at injector #2, 3, 4 to help bleed air out of the system.
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Ok I have been talking to Scheids and they have a set of delivery valves that will flow an additional 100cc's of fuel.. Does anyone have any idea what that flow is comparable to as far as the numerical DV's?
... Vs 131s, 181s, 191s?
Please let me know.
Thanks!
... Vs 131s, 181s, 191s?
Please let me know.
Thanks!
#10
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Don't know how 191's compare to Schieds but I have some laser cut 191's from Piers and I can tell you they add a massive bottom end punch and help out the midrange too. 191's will definitely help with spooling a larger turbo. My 94 spools much faster than a stocker with a 12cm housing.....and I have a 16cm housing!!! Peak hp is all relative anyway......even if you gained no peak hp but gained 50 more hp below your peak and got a flatter torque curve, the seat-of-the-pants feel would be that you got a huge power gain even though the actual peak gain has hardly changed at all. Also, get yourself a GSK.....you will not believe how much it adds to the drivability of the truck......it feels like you have picked up another 50 hp even though you haven't changed the peak power but have extended the usable power band of the motor significantly.
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Thanks CTD nut.. My 12V has a 3k GSK kit and fuels to 3500RPM.
Wow! 16CM spooling FASTER than a 12CM housing? Sweet I definately gotta get me a set of those
Wow! 16CM spooling FASTER than a 12CM housing? Sweet I definately gotta get me a set of those
#12
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Whoops - missed the GSK in your sig.
Let me clarify.....the 16cm housing spools faster on my 94 in it's current state than the 12cm does on a stocker........but yes, it does spool very well......the truck is very snappy down low and boosts very quickly but I admit that the 16cm HX35 is not enough turbo for the fueling.....she gets hot at WOT fast......
Let me clarify.....the 16cm housing spools faster on my 94 in it's current state than the 12cm does on a stocker........but yes, it does spool very well......the truck is very snappy down low and boosts very quickly but I admit that the 16cm HX35 is not enough turbo for the fueling.....she gets hot at WOT fast......