I am expecting to get a set of gauges from dieselmanor w/ the 3-gauge dash top pod (pyro, tranny temp, fuel pressure). I would like to install it w/out cutting the dash. I am planning on running the wires/hoses down the back of the dash by the windshield, and then maybe down the corner by the A-pillar. I have one weekend to install the gauges, never done this before, so I don't want to add the additional confusion of removing the dash/instrument panel/etc. Did that once before on a car and don't want to go there again. Any tips?

 

Make a little notch in the back of the pod for your wire/hoses so it will sit flat. Make sure you get a long enough pyro lead.

I installed mine that way, cant even see the wire/hoses at the bottom of the windshield.

 

Thanks for the info. How'd you run the hoses down the side of the dash. I just looked at it, and it doesn't look like there's room to do it without cutting the corner of the dash.

 

What I did with mine, I used an 90 degree angle die grinder with a grinding bit, found on most tool trucks. I bored a hole thru the dash under the pod. The hole was around 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch diameter. Ran all the wires/tubes down thru the hole one at a time so I could tell the difference between boost tube and fuel. Going out thru the firewall I used a large screwdriver and slid it between the main wire harness and the rubber grommet, then slid my tubes thru this spot and out to the isolator and boost bolt. Ran my wire for my gauge lights to the light switch and used a scotch lock to tap into the dimmer circuit. I have LED gauges so low amperage, would be more concerned it I had normal light bulbs and tapping into this circuit for fear of burning something up.

If you have an isolator, connect it to the fuel system, get the air bled out of the engine so it will start. Then crack the bleed screw loose on the isolator just enough for fuel to flow, then start the truck and tighten the bleed screw on the isolator, this will bleed all air out of the hose and isolator.....very important, made my gauge do weird things until I did this. If you don't have an isolator skip that. If you have the isolator and will be using coolant, I found it helped to have another person to help get all the air out of the tube. I used a seringe from the farm supply store with a needle and my wife to refill the seringe while I plugged the end to keep air from getting in the tube. When it was full of coolant I had her tighten the fitting at the isolator....that was comical because she has NO mechanical ability!!

I did not look at your sig but if you can get a boost bolt. This means no drilling and tapping on the intake, just remove one of the intake bolts and screw in the boost bolt and then adapt your tube to it, very easy and saves time. I always get in a rush doing this stuff cause I want to see the final result, so this helped speed things up. Running the hoses/wires down thru the top of the dash in the hole gives it a clean appearance and is easily accessed from under the dash. There is room to reach up and grab your hoses/wires and pull them down. I left enough wire/tube under the dash so if I had to remove gauges they will pull out far enough to give some room to work. Also put connectors on your wires for the same reason, just unplug and remove the gauge from the wires. Hope this helps

 

P.S, 2001 you can get a boost bolt, it's like $8-9 for it. I'll try and get some pics on my sig to show where it goes. I know some other guys had some links. I think it's between #2-3 injector and it is a bolt that holds down the injector line bracket. Just remove it and put in the boost bolt.