PourinDiesel

The AAM's are referred to as 11.5 AAM or 10.5 AAM.
Another thread stated that the AAM 11.5 had 1.5" axle's.

The 2500 in the 3rd gen has the 11.5 also.

Stamey

Heck, my D70 has 1.5" axles. The big thing I am concerned about is the axle tube size. I was told by a guy at the pull that the D80 axle tubes are larger than the D70 axle tubes, and if this is true, the AAM axle tubes might be different. I am trying to work out what I would need to change/modify to put an AAM in my 99.
Gonna call Randy's this AM to see about getting my p-lok rebuilt.

Thanks,
Chris

Stamey

Randy's said the complete rebuild kit for my p-lok would cost 220.00. Less than I expected.

Chris

PourinDiesel

$220 to get it running again is ok.

MedicShawn

Hey Chris I have a Third Gen 2500. Do you need to look at it?

Bobcat698

Dana 70's have a 3.5" axle tube, Dana 80's have 4" diameter tubes.

Cspotrun

I picked up my P-lok rebuild from accuautoparts.com for 175 off ebay. I see their price on their website is higher might wanna call them.

Stamey

I will certainly check into that tonight (they block eBay from work). Thanks for the info.

JKM, I looked on eBay for one of those cheap p-loks, but did not see one. I will keep watching though.

I am also going to investigate upgrading to 35 spline axles, as I have 32 spline.

Shawn, yes, please measure your axle tubes and let me know the diameter, then the width, from inside of the flange the brakes bolt to.

Chris

redstreak

I think that stiff knees would help you out a bunch. I blew mine out sled pullin and decided after much research to reguild the stock limited slip rear with 35 spline side gears and treated spider gears. Got some 35 spline axles from Moser and haven't had a problem since. It was a very reasonably priced fix too.

MedicShawn

4 inches and 62 flange to flange measuring by myself. I'd say it's accurate give or take an inch. I'm around tonight Wednesday Friday Sunday. If you want to stop by.-Shawn

Stamey

Now have the video available, for those of you who want to SEE the spider gears taking a dump:
http://video.thedieselgarage.com/vid...6b0177e48f.htm

All constructive advice on future prevention appreciated.

Chris

Stamey

OK, completely rebuilt P-lok, courtesy Randy's R & P. Soaked clutches in the nasty smelling friction modifier for 20 minutes before assembly, as instructed. and put rest of bottle into diff when filling with lube.
That LS is STILL almost as tight as a spool. If I apply power turning a corner the inside tire is scratching, if not chirping. I am really happy that it is tight, but I don't want to wear it out again.
I don't know if it iwll matter as I may just blow somehting else in there enxt time I hook, so I will be in there again.....
I do plan to put some blocks in the rear, to help maintain the geometry on the truck when pulling, which should take some load off the rear, and spread the power distribution to the front wheels better. I sure hope so. I have been told I do NOT want the rear end sqatting when I am pulling.

Thanks,
Chris