Stamey

I did another pull Saturday, this time with my new ladders bars installed. No breaky axle, but nuked the spider gears. What's unbelivable is that I did this with my Comp in 1x1, as I forgot to turn it up. The other DTR guys were asking me why there was no smoke.....

Carnage pics:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/impresn/...32594632#page1

This is a D70 from a 2001.5 Ram, and I'm putting out between 535 and 580 HP to the rear wheels.
Questions for the axle expoerts:
1. Can I get all the pieces to rebuild this Powr-lok from Randy's or Reider? I'm gonna need all the guts of the p-lok because the cross bars seem to have a little galling on them as well.
2. Is the rebuild cost going to be so much that I should just get a new p-lok, or other?
3. Anyone have any ideas whay this might have happened? I was pulling steady, and even with foot on the floor could not get it to do more than about 2400 RPMs (because I forgot to turn the Comp up). I could not feel any bouncing in the rear. I am running 315/75 Pro Comp All Terrains, which are not supper aggressive.

4. Would blocks help this problem?

5. What should I check before ordering parts to make sure I get everything I need. There are pics of the p-lok case in the album, and the chunks missing where a gear hit it. It doesn't seem liek ti will affect the operation of the unit, or seem like it has weakened it. What do you think?

Thanks,
Chris

Kemble

Link not working? or is it just me?

Stamey

It should work. I just figured out I had not made it public yet, but I just fixed that, I think. Let me know if it still doesn't work.

Thanks,
Chris

Kemble

Link works now. OUCH, that looks pretty bad, might be cheaper to find a used Plok and rebuild but I am not real sure.

JKM

power loks are going for 150$ on ebay all the time.

Stamey

OK, if I get a p-lok that way, will I have to re-set up the gears to install it? I don't know much about setting up rears at this point, but I guess I should learn.

Thanks,
Chris

LanceD

why not upgrade to a detroit? get some bigger 35 spline axles while you are at it if yours doesn't already have them

cumminsdriver635

Just put a Dana 80 in it. When i find a good one, im pulling mine out, and swapping to an 80 myself.

Eric

Shovelhead

Why not just "spool" it and get it over with?
Less parts to break.

Stamey

I haven't quite decided to make this a strictly race truck, ed. I'd like to keep the p-lok, if I can keep it as tight as this one has been. It's darn near a spool itself.

Chris

Bobcat698

Just get a Dana 80 and quit throwing money at weak parts.
Once you get the powerlok holding up, all you'll do is shear off the pinion.

I didn't break a 70 but broke 2 axles and 2 sets of spider gears in a Dana 80.
Get the 80 with a Detroit locker and DONT HOP and you'll be fine.

RATTLINRAM

JEEZE Chris,,,,,
That's just plain UGLY!!!

PourinDiesel

Forget Dana 70 all together.

Get at the least a Dana 80.

If you could swing it and make it work the American Axle "AAM" 11.5" in the 3rd gen is an even better choice.

Ph4tty

So *thats* what that sound was

1x1 on the comp is defuel isn't it?? It was still a strong run- I'd think when you hang some weights and remember to put the comp on kill your truck will be winning some local pulls

Stamey

Know anyone that has done an AAM swap? I am wondering about axle tube sizes, width, etc. I don't have a buddy close by with a 3rd gen 2500, just 3500's, and they may be bigger.
What is the model number for the AAM, like D70, D80 for the Dana?

Thanks,
Chris