Confused with a #10 plate or keep what I have
#1
Confused with a #10 plate or keep what I have
Hey Guys,
From what Ive read a #10 plate and a GSK3 works well but only gives me 220hp for my 97 auto thats whats on the charts. I have a banks stinger plus at best 242hp so would I be waisting my $$ if I order a #10 or stick with what I have and just add the GSK3 I use it for towing.
From what Ive read a #10 plate and a GSK3 works well but only gives me 220hp for my 97 auto thats whats on the charts. I have a banks stinger plus at best 242hp so would I be waisting my $$ if I order a #10 or stick with what I have and just add the GSK3 I use it for towing.
#2
Registered User
i would get the 4gsk and 60 lb spring kit, maybe grind your own plate. i would save the money for the fuel plate and grind my own.
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...ins-p-189.html
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...ins-p-189.html
#4
just by itself in stock position probally. the plate is kind of like main fuel metering device. think of it like a valve it can be wide open but you can only push as much fuel though as the dv's and injectors as they will alow. the profile of the plate would be the equivilant of closing the valve part way. 0 plate would be wide open. 100 plate would pinch back fuel on the bottom end then goes to a 0 profile. 10 plate pinches on the bottom and top leaving the mid range more open. when the governer arm hits the plate it restricts fuel the shorter the stroke the less fuel. slide the plate foreward and you can get more fuel. but its a combination with injectors/ dvs/ and air that will make the power. so a # 10 can make alot more power than 220 hp. If it were me i would grind my stock plate a 10, if its too much fuel slide it back a bit. defenatly do the gsk and save the money for some injectors or dvs. the biggest limiting factor is going to be your auto tranny. also fill out your signatrue so we can give better advice. before any of this do guages if you already havent. hope this helps you
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