is cold air really neccesary?
#1
is cold air really neccesary?
I am thinking of buying either a volant or an AFE stage 2 system, but now i am wondering if the expense of a cold air system is worth it. would just a high performance under hood system be much different? My truck is not bombed much at all. if theres something that will get me a little better mileage and maybe a little faster turbo spool up, i'll do it. but if its just a part that looks cool then it really wouldnt be worth it.
#2
Cool air is a denser charge. It makes your turbo operate more efficiently and increases your potential to burn more fuel (more oxygen in the cylinders) This is why you have an intercooler - to lower the intake temps which rise as a result of compression. The intercooler on our trucks is on the larger side IMHO, so you already have additional cooling capacity.
I personally don't care for the K&N on forced aspiration engines, but I do run one on my 68 Firebird. Based on what I see in your sig, I'd say get a dondaldson, or fleetguard in your stock box and hole-saw the bottom of your box and you'll be fine. Some will disagree but, unless your plan on throwing on some major mods, I think the cool air kits are money that could be spent elsewhere.
If lag is really annoying you, start saving up for a VB and a Smarty, some modest injectors (RV275's) would be optional.... then practice the chant "LAG!!! BE GONE!!!".
Good luck
I personally don't care for the K&N on forced aspiration engines, but I do run one on my 68 Firebird. Based on what I see in your sig, I'd say get a dondaldson, or fleetguard in your stock box and hole-saw the bottom of your box and you'll be fine. Some will disagree but, unless your plan on throwing on some major mods, I think the cool air kits are money that could be spent elsewhere.
If lag is really annoying you, start saving up for a VB and a Smarty, some modest injectors (RV275's) would be optional.... then practice the chant "LAG!!! BE GONE!!!".
Good luck
#3
Better drop in filter, holes in the bottom of your stock box, and a good seal in the factory lid will give you all you need...up to 350 hp and more, IMO.
RJ
#4
a fuel plate, 3k gsk, and some AFC modification would net good power gain and less lag.
#6
no problem just didnt wanna confuse him in case he didnt know any better.
what really helps these trucks is the governer spring kit. quite a few folks say thats what helps the most for driveabilty and minor power enhancement.
what really helps these trucks is the governer spring kit. quite a few folks say thats what helps the most for driveabilty and minor power enhancement.
#7
There is nothing like a #100 fuel plate to eliminate lag....or a #10 if you aren't feeling so brave. Changing to one of these two plates will virtually eliminate lag and be more effective than virtually any other mod to increase throttle response and reduce lag.....not to mention an ENORMOUS increase in power!
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#8
There is nothing like a #100 fuel plate to eliminate lag....or a #10 if you aren't feeling so brave. Changing to one of these two plates will virtually eliminate lag and be more effective than virtually any other mod to increase throttle response and reduce lag.....not to mention an ENORMOUS increase in power!
#9
I probably oughta just go with the less expensive option and just get a better filter. I need to look at it from the point of better protection with a secondary benefit of maybe getting more air into the system. i like the idea of going with a cone filter or something though cause it looks like it can flow more air due to increased surface area. As far as a plate goes, mine is AWOL. i pulled the stock plate right on out. it seems to have less turbo lag. nothing to spectaculer, but definatly less.
#10
I fixed the factory setup and i believe I am seeing better results. On my OEM air box were the box mounts to the fender there was slots next to the nuts at each point were it bolts to the fender i sealed them off and made the boot that goes to the fender have a 100% better seal so now its not sucking dust road spray and heat from the slots and now its drawing more air from the OEM location and not escaping before my truck can use it thus utilizing the stock box. The problem I was having was those three slots and the boot not sealing right was letting in way to much dust and causing my filters to only last about a month top. the filters were at least working cause the tube to the turbo was clean as a kitchen counter but the filters were as black as the insides of my boots.
#11
I'm not a fan of any after market air intake system, especially the BHAF. The stock 2nd gen system is good to at least 500 hp when the rubber fender boot is removed, or reinforced to keep from collapsing. But if you've got to have a non-stock system, cool is the way to go. When the SAE correction factor for dynos is examined, what stands out the most is, air temperature is the largest single enviromental factor affecting performance.
Slighly shorten, and reinforce the rubber boot on the stock air cleaner and you'll have a cool air system which is both inexpensive and effective.
Slighly shorten, and reinforce the rubber boot on the stock air cleaner and you'll have a cool air system which is both inexpensive and effective.
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