clutch question?
#1
clutch question?
I'm a collage student looking for a clutch for a nv4500 trans in a 2000 4x4 that has 100hp injectors, quad adr, intake, and exhaust. the stock clutch is toast but I think I can reuse the flywheel, the question is: are the 12.25" clutches worth it from valair? I can take the quad off if its too much power, and all I really tow with it is a small trailer no more than 2500lbs, I want to do the 13" but right now I can't afford it. This truck is just going to be a daily driver that I can get from school and back. I've scanned the forum for days looking at threads but I can't find a good answer. thanks, justin
#3
read here first
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=222584
then call Larry at the DTR store for an awesome price on a Southbend con-OFE
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=222584
then call Larry at the DTR store for an awesome price on a Southbend con-OFE
#5
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12.25 clutches are not worth it.
if you want a cheap alternative not the right way but it will work
buy a 13" luk disk with the 1-1/4 input on it find someone who just did a SBC or something on an 01-05 HO 6 spd truck. get their low miles pressure plate some of us have 2 or 3. it wont be surfaced perfect but it will get you by for awhile.
it wont be as good as a new clutch but if you are spending money on a 12.25 only to rip it out later its kind of throwing money away. re-using some lightly used parts may be the bandaid to get you there.
plenty of guys on here myself included have old pressure plates that were removed with low miles because we planned on going bigger on hp. and i imagine any of us will offer it up for free since its taking up garage space. you can probably find a 6spd 13" flywheel for around $150 or get yours redrilled for $50
buy the Luk 13" disk for $150+/- so you will be in it $300-350 with the bigger flywheel better disk with the larger hub until you can afford to spring for the balance of 600-700 for a performance 13" disk setup but then you'll be that much further ahead having the larger flywheel reay to take the 13" performance pressure plate.......... for now the stock pressure plate and disk usually can take 350hp/700tq without much worry
just a thought. in college thats what i used to get by with, id find most the clutch parts pressure plates and flywheels from guys who hadn't worn out their stock parts but were upgrading to play with bigger hp numbers. it wasnt ideal but i could get the old stuff for $100 pp and flywheel buy a disk for $100 and slap it together an go 70k miles without any problems (now if there were hot spots of course i would spend the extra $50 on surfacing) and they typically sold the flywheel i took out of my truck for $50-100 so that covered things pretty well but most the time i just ran it because it was all i could afford back then a stock clutch kit was $450-500
shop it and get her back together to get you by but buying a performance 12-1/4 is IMHO getting you a minor improvement over a stock 12-1/4 save your money and plan on a southbend in the mean while accumulate some cheap parts and the flywheel and get your rig ready for the south bend
if you want a cheap alternative not the right way but it will work
buy a 13" luk disk with the 1-1/4 input on it find someone who just did a SBC or something on an 01-05 HO 6 spd truck. get their low miles pressure plate some of us have 2 or 3. it wont be surfaced perfect but it will get you by for awhile.
it wont be as good as a new clutch but if you are spending money on a 12.25 only to rip it out later its kind of throwing money away. re-using some lightly used parts may be the bandaid to get you there.
plenty of guys on here myself included have old pressure plates that were removed with low miles because we planned on going bigger on hp. and i imagine any of us will offer it up for free since its taking up garage space. you can probably find a 6spd 13" flywheel for around $150 or get yours redrilled for $50
buy the Luk 13" disk for $150+/- so you will be in it $300-350 with the bigger flywheel better disk with the larger hub until you can afford to spring for the balance of 600-700 for a performance 13" disk setup but then you'll be that much further ahead having the larger flywheel reay to take the 13" performance pressure plate.......... for now the stock pressure plate and disk usually can take 350hp/700tq without much worry
just a thought. in college thats what i used to get by with, id find most the clutch parts pressure plates and flywheels from guys who hadn't worn out their stock parts but were upgrading to play with bigger hp numbers. it wasnt ideal but i could get the old stuff for $100 pp and flywheel buy a disk for $100 and slap it together an go 70k miles without any problems (now if there were hot spots of course i would spend the extra $50 on surfacing) and they typically sold the flywheel i took out of my truck for $50-100 so that covered things pretty well but most the time i just ran it because it was all i could afford back then a stock clutch kit was $450-500
shop it and get her back together to get you by but buying a performance 12-1/4 is IMHO getting you a minor improvement over a stock 12-1/4 save your money and plan on a southbend in the mean while accumulate some cheap parts and the flywheel and get your rig ready for the south bend
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#8
DO NOT GET A VALAIR! My vote is either Haisley street puller or a kennys clutch! Used to think south bend was the way to go but i have seen a few to many of them burn up this pullin season!
#9
how do you have a lock up switch in your 2000 that you are looking for a clutch for?
I know a guy that has alot of 6 speed parts of his 04.5 could anything work off of it or would I have to find another year model. I do not want a fire breathing, smoke blowin, tire shreading monster just something to get me by for now that won't slip if I decide to get on it. another question do the hp ratings for clutches start at the flywheel or the rearwheel? I'm so new to performance clutches i don't know were to start.
thanks,
justin
#10
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I've been puting around 900ft lbs to a HD organic 12.25" Valair (NMU70119-01) for over 25,000 miles without any problems what so ever, and a buddy of mine has about the same or more on a 12.25" ceramic with no problems either.
Thats one of the nice things about valair with the HD 12.25" you don't need to upgrade to a 13"!!! These HD 12.25's are fricken tuff, I mostly daily drive and tow, but I've even launched it pretty dang hard at the strip a few times and it hasn't given any signs of problems.
My only regret is I didn't buy a more aggressive one, and now I'm setting close to the limits of the organic facings, and have more planned in the future. So I'm gonna have to go ahead and upgrade before I can add more HP. Next clutch is going to be the ceramic/kelvar 12.25" (NMU70119-06)
good luck...Josh
Thats one of the nice things about valair with the HD 12.25" you don't need to upgrade to a 13"!!! These HD 12.25's are fricken tuff, I mostly daily drive and tow, but I've even launched it pretty dang hard at the strip a few times and it hasn't given any signs of problems.
My only regret is I didn't buy a more aggressive one, and now I'm setting close to the limits of the organic facings, and have more planned in the future. So I'm gonna have to go ahead and upgrade before I can add more HP. Next clutch is going to be the ceramic/kelvar 12.25" (NMU70119-06)
good luck...Josh
#12
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I AM IN NO WAY AFFILIATED WITH ANY OF THE COMPANIES ABOVE THIS IS JUST MY ABSOLUTE HONEST OPINION ABOUT IT.
I have had a VALAIR clutch in all of my 4 trucks and have not had a single problem and watched him build 3 of them in his shop so dont really think they are CHINESE built...Maybe Chinese components but still awesome clutches...
I had one of dans single disc clutches in my 2000 p-pumped putting down over 600hp and had 9 hooks and 16 1/4 mile passes... with 2500 rpm 4x4 launches SO DONT TELL ME HIS CLUTCHES ARE JUNK.... MY 99 I HAD A SBC FULL FERAMIC IN IT TILL I TORE THE CENTER OUT AND SBC DID NOTHING FOR ME AFTER I HAD ONLY HAD THE CLUTCH FOR 6 WEEKS....
you make the choice...
anybody that wants to talk to me in person just give me a call
I hope this one does not get locked out like all the other VALAIR threads do!
I AM IN NO WAY AFFILIATED WITH ANY OF THE COMPANIES ABOVE THIS IS JUST MY ABSOLUTE HONEST OPINION ABOUT IT.
I have had a VALAIR clutch in all of my 4 trucks and have not had a single problem and watched him build 3 of them in his shop so dont really think they are CHINESE built...Maybe Chinese components but still awesome clutches...
I had one of dans single disc clutches in my 2000 p-pumped putting down over 600hp and had 9 hooks and 16 1/4 mile passes... with 2500 rpm 4x4 launches SO DONT TELL ME HIS CLUTCHES ARE JUNK.... MY 99 I HAD A SBC FULL FERAMIC IN IT TILL I TORE THE CENTER OUT AND SBC DID NOTHING FOR ME AFTER I HAD ONLY HAD THE CLUTCH FOR 6 WEEKS....
you make the choice...
anybody that wants to talk to me in person just give me a call
I hope this one does not get locked out like all the other VALAIR threads do!
I AM IN NO WAY AFFILIATED WITH ANY OF THE COMPANIES ABOVE THIS IS JUST MY ABSOLUTE HONEST OPINION ABOUT IT.
#14
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you have 900 ft lbs with the mods in your sig?
YUP...
They didn't have the optical pickup working at our dyno day, and I'm pretty sure my tach is a little off so I can't say exact numbers, but between 2 runs it dyno'd over 350hp between 1800-2000 rpm... you do the math
5252 X horspower / RPM = Torque
One Key factor to torque numbers is turbo size/response. The earlier in the rpm band the turbo lights the more HP you'll make at a lower RPM. The more HP you make at lower RPM the more torque you'll make.
So that being said, I'm still on the stock charger which spools up very fast at low RPM's, thus the high torque numbers.... Yeah the stock charger won't support a ton of HP and it gets a little hot on the dyno, but its hard to beat it for daily driving and low RPM torque numbers