12valvesmoke

i was planning on putting in my clutch you see in my signature. my stocker is slipping tremendously so i gotta get it done this weekend.

how easy is it to do? i have a 2wd so no transfer case. i dont have access to a full lift but i have lots of jacks and a tranny jack. does anyone know of a step by step instruction site or happen to have one written out?

Thanks,
Jared

Box5

It's a fairly easy job, the only real trouble spots are getting the top two bellhousing bolts off and on, and aligning the transmision so it slides into ur new clutch disk. I'll try a quick step by step from memory

1)remove the 4 bolts that hold the rear driveshaft to the rear axle (spicer universal joint straps)
2)slide the driveshift out of the slip yoke of ur trans and place it aside somewhere
3)undo the plug on the top left of the trans (reverse light plug)
4)undo the speed sensor plug on the rear of the trans
5)undo the two bolts that hold the trans to the crossmember
6)start to undo the 8 bolt that hold the crossmember to the frame (4 on each side, yes there kind of annoying to take out since u have to fit a long socket or extension in part of the frame holes)
7)put ur trans jack under the trans to support it.
8)jack the trans up alittle and remove the little metal and rubber trans mount that sits between the crossmember and the trans.
9)now hit the crossmember with a large rubber deadblow hammer or somthing similar from the bottom up until u can lift it up and back, and then down and out.
10)keep the trans supported and undo all the bellhousing bolts
11)remove the slave cylinder bolts from the slave cylinder on the left side of the trans (2 of them) and remove the slave cylider out of the way
12)make sure the fuel lines are out of the way from the top of the bellhousing
13)remove the shifter from inside the cab (remove the shift boot and depends what shifter u have, either push down and twist the metal shifter attachment, or unbolt the newer style shift tower and remove the shifter)
14)start to pull the trans back and out of the clutch
15) lower the trans to the ground and out of the way.
16) remove the pressure plate bolts, then remove the pressure plate and clutch disk.
17)Remove the flywheel bolts and remove ur flywheel and have ur flywheel resurfaced (very important).
18)pry the old pilot bearing out and put ur new one in
19)re-install the flywheel and torque NEW flywheel bolts to 101ft lbs.
20) re-install the clutch disk with the install alignment tool and install the pressure plate, tightening each bolt crosswise slowy a few threads each at a time to equalize pressure
21) jack up the trans and align it best u can so the input shaft slides into the clutch disk and pilot bearing
22) bolt the bellhousing bolts back up
23)and continue to re-intall everything in reverse order u took them out.
17)remove the

12valvesmoke

thank you sir looks great!

Tate

One thing I do different is seperate the tranny from the bellhousing on removal, then take the bell off later. Less hassle when pulling it out. Other thing is, depending on what clutch your puttin in and what the alignment tool is like, use the input shaft for alignment. The one that came with my dual disc was a plastic piece of garbage, ended up having to pull the input out of the tranny to align the discs because the plastic tool was shaving it self down on the splines in the disc. Other than that, its a fairly straight forward job. Oh, and there is holes in the seam in the cab so you can access the bolts for the crossmembers instead of having to fish the right size extension in. I found that out AFTER I had got those bolts out the first time I did this job.

Lil Dog

Get a good tranny jack. I rented one and it made the job so much easier. The one I got was overkill, like for 13spd Spicers, but it didn't wobble and made the alignment of the input to the clutch bang on for the install.

Tate

How big is the jack? It might not fit under his 2wd truck. I had to run the front of my truck up on blocks, and roll the tranny onto its side to get it out from under the truck.