Desert Diesel

I can't seem to find HP/TQ number for Luk Clutches.

I've seen numbers vary when people discuss the SB Clutch, but I don't have the $1300 that I need to to upgrade the flywheel.

I plan on keeping the turbo and possibly upgrading the injectors. Other than that, it's just the Comp on 5x5 and a 10K lb load ocassionally.

I'm thinking somehting in the $300-$600 range.

What would you suggest? is your suggestion based on opinion? If so, personal 1st hand experience? If based on facts, whwere did you get them? What are the numbers you used for your decision?

I've read every clutch thread here I can find. They are chalked full of opinions with little to no actually facts, numbers, ratings or statistics which is where I find error. I hate reposting the same question over and over, but I think I've seen enough to know that Luk is second to SB, but cheaper to boot. I just can't find real numbers for the LUK, and who knows what HP/TQ my truck is ACTUALLY making. We have no Dyno anywhere near where I live.

Thanks, and sorry for the long read.

gunracer1

ok here is a fact, at 411 rwhp and 998 tq i twisted the input shaft off of my nv4500. i had 13.25 con fe conversion. i have since switched to a southbend dual disk and a nv5600. i know not a cheap alternative but it hold like nothing i have ever drivin. as i have said before, makin power is cheap, holding it cost a lot of money.

PourinDiesel

Another FACT:
South Bend Clutch has unbeaten customer service.

Desert Diesel

That fact about Customer Service at SB seems to be well voiced.

I have a "newb" question in that I can't search less than 4 chars.

What is ETH vs. Non-ETH?

I assume, from what I've read and tried to fill in the blanks, is that ETH is the acronym for the HO version of the 2000.5-2003 24Vs. Is that correct?

I have the non-HO with the 5spd. and have been looking at clutches for non-ETH trucks.

ddestruel

ETH= a cummins engine code on the engine vin tage yours probably says ETC which is the 235 hp model if you have a 5 spd

ETH is the HO engine comes with a 3/4" spacer between the starter and the adapter plate this allows the starter to engege at a shorter deopt in relation to the flywheel and ring gear to be set into the back 1/2 of the flywheel closer to the engine instead of the outside edge of the flywheel like yours has and with that the flywheel solid mass is overall a larger diameter which allows it to accomodate the bigger clutch.

I think the number is 330mm on the ETH pressure plate and disck and 300 mm on the ETC SO motor. basically something like 13.25" with 1 3/8" input vs 12.5"disk with 1.25 input. otherwise all else interchanges. A SO flywheel can be taken to a machine shop drilled and tapped to take the HO pressure plate and Disk but you either will have to get the right 1.25" hub installed in the HO disk for the smaller input, or upgrade to a larger input 1 3/8 like the HO comes with or install a 6 spd which almost all 6spd after 2000 came with 1 3/8" inputs.

Junk Yard Dog

The first clutch I bought was a LUK Pro Gold that I could smoke in 3rd, 4th, and 5th at 311hp, put the South bend 13.25 con fe in, added a little power, and twisted the input shaft off the Nv4500 at 440hp. Guess the SB holds the power.

The Luk is a good clutch, But like said before their customer service don't compare to South Bends.

Guess ya get what you pay for

Rick

Desert Diesel

Fair enough!


ddestruel - Thank you for the detailed ETC/ETH explanation.
Junk Yard Dog - Thank you for being honest and exact in your experience with Luk. I find it very helpful in my decision.

As it sits, I am leaning toward the SB MU0090 Con. O, which as per teh SB Website should be good for 400HP/900ftlbs TQ.

I should be under that with my COMP and some 275s.

600 Megawatts

The Luk pro gold is not the clutch you want to consider from Luk. Alot of guys think that when you talk about Luk you are talking about the pro-gold. The pro gold is a toy and its no wonder guys with big HP/torque numbers are smoking it in weeks. The clutch to consider from Luk is the 13" Cerametallic upgrade clutch.

It is cost effective ($590) if you allready have a 13" flywheel, which is the case if you have an HO, but if you dont, unfortunately another $300 or so for a 13" flywheel makes the Luk option less attractive.


As for customer service, you better not need any. Who the hell cares how great they treat you with a warranty issue when you are breakin your back underneath that truck wrestling with the cast iron NV5600 and transfer case for a second or third time.... Are they gonna come to your garage and pull it out for you too???

Whatever, I have been here before and I am not going get into a urinating contest with all the South Bend Clutch salesmen on here......

PM me if you are interested how the $589 LUK cerametallic worked for me.


KP

roadranger

Customer service goes a LONG way IMO!

SB will talk with you before the purchase, to ensure you buy the right clutch for your application.
LUK? No talking, just order one and spend your money. Bought the wrong one? (like a Pro Gold) Too bad, sooo sad.

With a SB clutch, you shoudn't have to be underneath the truck wrestling the tranny out ever again. And if something does tear up, SB backs it up 100%.
What does LUK do? You can't even get specs out of them, never mind warranty repair. You get to buy ANOTHER clutch from them. (if you're sucker enough)
Plus, that factory clutch you're replacing because it can't hold the power? Guess what? It's a LUK!

THAT's why there's so many "SB salesmen" on this and other boards.
PERFORMANCE COUNTS!

Haulin_in_Dixie

An amateur SB salesman and proud of it. Also both sides have to out there Megawatt. I would never ever put a ceramic clutch in my truck. If it was free and installed, I would take it out. Ceramic will distroy your drive line.

killfast1

HID,
how is that , I was thinking about getting one later.

Pike

With ceramic, there is usually no slip to them. They are either in or out.

600 Megawatts

This post was called 'clutch facts'. Numerous statements have been made here that are not fact. "ceramic will destroy your driveline" is a great example of the type of factless comment you can get on here. One, a cerametallic clutch is not ceramic, and two, assuming they meant cerametallic, no it wont 'destroy' your driveline. I would recommend that anyone looking into an upgraded clutch do additional research outside of this forum before making their decision.


KP

PourinDiesel

Try coming out of the hole at 3200rpm in 4th gear with any "LuK" Clutch with about 40,000 lbs behind you!
See how you come out!

Fact is Peter has taken care of his customers even in situations where the customer has caused the damage to his clutch.

That is 2nd to none in my book.

*Note, 600 I am not badmouthing your Luk 13" Cerametallic. I am sure it is a fine clutch for what it is designed for.
SBC makes clutches specifically for all sort of applications including the most variety of purposes for Diesel truck hot rodding. Peter from SouthBend also listens to his customers and issues they have. That makes their product the best on the market.

Haulin_in_Dixie

I also can have an opinion, I gave mine. I am glad that your clutch has done what you want. Looking into it is what I was driving at. You put the ceramic clutch out as a cure all and that it is not. If he chooses to use one that is fine, does not affect me at all, but he needs to look into the pro's and con's.