You did bleed in the proper sequence, but may still have air in the rears, also look at your rear wheel cylinders, did you install them so that the bleeder screw is on the TOP? they can be installed upside down and if that is the case you will not get the air out. as for your lights being on make sure your park brake pedal is all the way up, reach under and lift the pedal after pulling on the release handle.
you sould see a noticable brake improvement especially under a hard long stop (drastically improves brake fade). how did you adjust your rear brakes?? I pull the rear axel bolts after jacking the side you are working on as high as possible(keeps most of the oil in the hub) rotate the wheel while tightening the star wheel keep going till the wheel locks up, then use another screwdriver or a right angle bent pick to push the bar that locks the starwheel so you can back off the brakes till the wheel turns with a little drag. then go hit the brake pedal (to center the shoes) and re-check your adjustment, you might have to tighten it again, If you only adjust them by listening for drag and not locking up the wheel, likely they are not adjusted properly.

also check the wiring (do you have rear ABS only?) from the sensor where it goes into the main harness up near the rear of the gas tank, pull and tug on it while running your thumb nail against the wire, it usually breaks there ans "looks fine" but the wire is broken inside the plastic, you will be able to feel it with your thumb. symptoms would be an intermediant ABS light on the dash that goes on and off after hitting bumps in the road.

 

Great post, Markus!

 

Awesome info partner. Let me try to answer all of them, and we'll see where I'm at.

Yeah, they're installed with the bleeder screw up top. I don't think you can install them upside down on mine, there's no place to screw in the holder bolts if it's upside down.

Tried pulling it up even more, but it wouldn't move and the light's still on. And yeah, there must be a problem, because it's the same if a tiniest bit worse braking power and performance wise than my stock dodge 3/4 ton wheel cylinders. Was also wondering if those wheel cylinders I posted a picture of a few posts ago (pn 33709, 1998 Chevrolet Truck C3500 1 ton P/U 2WD 5.7L SFI Single Rear Wheel) was comparable to what everyone else used.

Well actually, I didn't even adjust them this time around because I didn't move anything, and seeing how this cylinder is a tiny bit bigger, I supposed that having my shoes tighter would help some. But yeah, that's almost exactly how I adjust my brakes, though I also use a caliper to measure the inside of the drum so I can adjust it before hand, just so I can get it close and not have to sit there spinning that star adjuster forever. Haha. But anyways, they drag just fine right now.


Well, it's definitely not intermittently off and on. It stays lit solidly whether I'm sitting in the garage, or going over speed bumps at a good clip, so... And also, how do I figure out if I even have rear ABS? I figured I didn't have it at all because in my drive-side fuse/relay box, I don't have any of the three ABS relays (yellow light ABS relay, ABS pump relay, and ABS pump 3 or dual tank relay i believe).

 

And as far as the sensor going out, I kind of doubt it went out just as I was putting in my new wheel cylinders (and the light was off even when I had a blown cylinder spewing fluid everywhere right before I did them), especially what with my brakes not feeling as if I just transplanted better cylinders into them.

Any way to test that sensor?

 

I just did this mod about 3 weeks ago and had the same problem the ABS and brake lights. I unhooked the battery cables to reset everything for about an hour. Worked fine, until 2 days later the lights came on again... then went off later that day. Now they've been off since. I'd try a few easy things, but if nothing simple works, just give it some time. Then, maybe think about going further.

 

I'm not entirely sure if the 2wd wheel cyl is different from the 4wd or not, its the internal size that matters. IIRC the GM wheel cyl are like 1/8inch larger diameter, I thought the size was stamped on them as well(its been a while since I did it). maybe you stuck the same size back on???

can you pull the codes?

and I'd still adjust till the wheel locks up then back it off, as for the other stuff sounds like you have it handled, I'm drawing a blank right now but let me sleep on it,

 

Hmm, I'll have to try that.

Yeah, there is no difference between the 2wd and 4wd as far as the computer at autozone was concerned for a srw 98 chevy 1ton. Both pulled up that 33709 part number. I didn't really compare the two side by side, but it did seem just a slight bit thicker.

I've got a buddy who can pull the codes for me, but I'm going to have to let the whole thing sit till next weekend, cause I'm out of town for this week for work. Gonna drive be bonkers thinking about the problem but not being able to touch it for a week... Though I guess that gives us plenty of time to speculate.

 

just read up on the service manual, and the ECM does store all ABS codes so if your light is on it will tell you why....well at least it will narrow it down