A Cheap Performance Clutch
03-30-2006, 08:51 AM
#16
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SBC is one of the best products out there and i hear greta things about his customer service. i was in a bind when my stocker died on me so i had to go the "cheap" route with a LUK cerametallic (a.k.a. the flywheel eater as some people call it) but with about 450-475 hp and 950-1000tq i drive the dog poo out of my truck, been to the race track with it, run it hard on the street, hooked bumpers, 4 wheeling, pulling trailers. im hard on that clutch, and it has slipped on me ZERO TIMES just getting on it going down the road. at the drag strip it slipped on me twice shifting from 5th to 6th gear at WOT without letting off. it would slip, i pump the throttle and it would grab and go and go again.
short of sledpulling ive put about the most abuse you can on a clutch since last september when i installed it. according to luk its rated for 550hp, and 1100tq, and has been tested to over 640hp by one of our members, i believe his hp was 641 before it started to slip.
with that being said i got the clutch for about $560 and no shipping because my local race shop got it for me and i picked it up.
my next step without a doubt is gonna be a SBC DD clutch, i wanna drag race a lil more and i need something i can slip at the line and build some boost to launch with, so im going with a more serious set-up.
short of sledpulling ive put about the most abuse you can on a clutch since last september when i installed it. according to luk its rated for 550hp, and 1100tq, and has been tested to over 640hp by one of our members, i believe his hp was 641 before it started to slip.
with that being said i got the clutch for about $560 and no shipping because my local race shop got it for me and i picked it up.
my next step without a doubt is gonna be a SBC DD clutch, i wanna drag race a lil more and i need something i can slip at the line and build some boost to launch with, so im going with a more serious set-up.
03-30-2006, 08:57 AM
#17
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Drag racing is murder on a clutch. Slipping it to do boosted launches is murder on the clutch.
Drag racing is for auto trannies, or manual sports cars.
You're obviously free to do as you please, just realize that you can't expect any kind of clutch endurance when it's abused like that.
I'm taking mental note to never buy a used vehicle from GB5.9
Drag racing is for auto trannies, or manual sports cars.
You're obviously free to do as you please, just realize that you can't expect any kind of clutch endurance when it's abused like that.
I'm taking mental note to never buy a used vehicle from GB5.9
03-30-2006, 02:31 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE
What is the aprox. limit of a stock clutch? My friend has a 94 with a #10 plate pushed forward and about 250,000 miles on the clock. His clutch is starting to slip, but I was wondering if it is beyond it's limit or just because of all of the miles.
Also, if the limit is at or bellow 350 hp would a pro-luk be good up to about 400? Do these (or any of the others) hold up to allot of miles like the stock ones do?
thanks
Also, if the limit is at or bellow 350 hp would a pro-luk be good up to about 400? Do these (or any of the others) hold up to allot of miles like the stock ones do?
thanks
Well
look at my sig, im between 350-375 rwhp, and i can slip it at will... anything over 400 will kill that bugger...
R.I.P Ramon..... 1992-2006 You will be missed....
Rick
03-30-2006, 02:38 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by HOHN
Drag racing is murder on a clutch. Slipping it to do boosted launches is murder on the clutch.
Drag racing is for auto trannies, or manual sports cars.
You're obviously free to do as you please, just realize that you can't expect any kind of clutch endurance when it's abused like that.
I'm taking mental note to never buy a used vehicle from GB5.9
Drag racing is for auto trannies, or manual sports cars.
You're obviously free to do as you please, just realize that you can't expect any kind of clutch endurance when it's abused like that.
I'm taking mental note to never buy a used vehicle from GB5.9
03-31-2006, 12:14 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by HOHN
The springs are hugely important-- you do NOT want to go without them. They dampen the vibrations that will cause spiral cracking of the input shaft.
03-31-2006, 06:52 AM
#22
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I'd personally consider it mandatory, if not a TCI Rattler or something.
The only TCI rattler for CTDs I know of though is on Comp461s truck. They don't shelf-stock a Rattler for the CTD.
Fluidamprs are good units.
The only TCI rattler for CTDs I know of though is on Comp461s truck. They don't shelf-stock a Rattler for the CTD.
Fluidamprs are good units.
03-31-2006, 10:06 AM
#23
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If you're looking for an inexpensive South Bend Con FE knockoff go to Six States Distributing. http://www.sixstates.com/ Not a bad clutch, though not as "pretty" as the South Bend. Local guys, here, have purchased the clutch, along with an install, for under $800.
03-31-2006, 07:50 PM
#25
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Here's where I'm going for mine. http://www.kennysmachine.com/index.cfm
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