I just ordered a 4k GSK, 60# valve springs, 191 DVs and AFC spring. How long will the valve springs take to change and what is the best compressor to get? I have 4 days off at thanksgiving to do the work so I'm in no hurry.

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP TO COME.

DEC 4th + 5th are dyno/drags in jacksonville N.C. I hope you can make it. Info at Natl. and Regional Chapters / Special Events Forums. Its goning to be a great event. Our trucks are going to ROCK

 

It's probably a good 3-3.5hr job. You have to rotate the motor so the piston is up for each cylinder to hold the valve up while you remove the spring. And you'll have to adjust the the valves when you're all done.
If you misjudge the piston being up and drop a valve, you'll be screwed so be careful.

The spring compressor needs to be small enough to fit under the cowl to get to cyls #5 and #6.

 

The piston will be high enuff to keep the valve all the way up? Thanks for the help.

CRIS

 

I don't know much about the CTD's, I'm learning more every day. However, on gas engines I've threaded a rope down the spark plug hole and rotated the engine (carefully) to hold up the valves. I "assume" this could be done through the injector hole - but I really don't know if that is possible...

 

when we did the last ones, we just compressed the spring, turned over the motor very slowly till we saw the valve rise up to the top. once we were at tdc for that cylinder we would hit the top of the valve spring compressor to free the keepers. here is a very good trick i suggest. get a magnet, about 1"x1'x1/8" thick [refridgerator magnet]lay it on top of the valve spring. when you smak it to free the keepers, it catches them. once we started doing it this way it went way faster.

 

G_T I've done the same rope trick on gas engines before also,but they have combustion chambers. I don't think a CTD does. I just worry about where the hole in the piston falls?

THANKS, CRIS

 

Cris,

The "keyhole" on the 12V piston is offset towards the exhaust / injector side. As long as the piston is at TDC the valve will hit the top flat of the piston and not be affected by the hole. If it's at BDC, though, the valve will fall into the abyss Follow the same order as setting the valves and you can do two cylinders at a time, spin twice, and get all 6. Shoot John_P a PM... he has a stock piston out of his truck that you can look at as well as some pictures of the pistons in the bores and the valves in the head that might help out.

John

 

JOHN

Thanks its great hearing from someone right up the road. Remember the 4th+5th of december in jacksonville I'll be there both days its going to be the best!!!!!!!

CRIS

 

I did mine the easy way but took a little mroe time. I took all the injectors and used a welding rod to find out when the piston was at TDC. I used the compressor that has a turn **** at the top and it worked great. On the back 2 pistons I had to cut some of the material off the top of the fire wall to get to the valves at a straight angleMake sure you do them in some kind of order because it is very easy to forget which one you have done. Make sure you tap the top of the valvestem with a hammer to see if the retainers are seated because it is very easy to not have one seated and look like it really is. I had a few come apart after I taped them thinking they were seated.
DM01

 

I wouldn't think you would have to cut any part of the truck. Theres got to be a tool that will fit without cutting up a prefectly good truck. This BOY "aint" going to cut anything!

CRIS