Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

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Old 03-27-2005, 03:12 PM
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Can I...?

Is it a reasonable expectation to be able to change out a Torque Converter and Valve Body in a weekend? I have a 2001 4x4 and can handle most tasks with my vehicles. I have a good assortment of tools. I will be doing this by myself and I'll be renting a trans jack. Can I leave the transfer case hooked to the tranny? Will I need to pull it out all the way or can I just move it back enough to r&r the t/c? Is there anything special I should look out for?

I am on a quest to increase my mileage up from the 14 mpg ave. I've been getting.
It seems like this is the first (and the most expensive) real upgrade to start with.

I just put the oem Michelin's back on.
An aFe pro-guard 7 magnum intake should be here tomorrow.
I want a mad ecm but everyone keeps saying I need to do the tranny first.
As much as I'd like to build a high HP rig, I'm really only concerned with mileage right now.
It just seems that to get the mileage, you need the HP mods.

What else will get me to the 20+ MPG mark?
Old 03-27-2005, 03:38 PM
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You should be able to do it.
Old 03-27-2005, 05:07 PM
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With the jack there is no reason it should take you more than a day unless you run into problems and need additional parts.
Old 03-27-2005, 05:21 PM
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I found that you will find it better to just remove the transfer case (only 6 nuts) I did and it went alot smoother.

CRIS
Old 03-27-2005, 05:26 PM
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Removing the transfer case is not a big deal and makes handling the transmission much easier. I would not try it with the case installed. You will already have the driveshaft out, the linkage removed, the vacuum lines off, so go ahead and take the eight or so bolts out and lift it down, the transmission and crossmember will be so much easier.
Old 03-27-2005, 05:51 PM
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Even with a trans jack, that transfer case is a lot of weight to mess with. I would remove it. I know I have in the past, even when I had a lift and trans jack.

You should be able to get the tranny back far enough to pull the TC, but keep in mind that sucker, full of fluid, is HEAVY, about 80 lbs. You migh take a few pounds off if you drain the TC, but it won't be much. It can save you some mess though.

If you decide to drain the TC, do that as early as possible as it will drain for a while. You might pull the drain Friday night and get started Saturday morning. This could also be said for the VB as well. Pull the pan on Friday night and loosen the VB. Much more fluid will drain when you take the VB loose.
Put the pan back on with a couple of bolts, or complete the VB job, before you take on the TC, so as to give the tranny a place to rest on the jack.

If you've never seated a TC before, know that it may take a while. You will turn it and push into the tranny. Turn it and push. Repeat as necessary. You should feel it "seat" 3 times. You should not be able to get your little finger between the TC and the bell housing, at the top, when it is fully seated. Some TC's go it easy and some take a while. Don't really know why it varyies.

Chris
Old 03-28-2005, 01:43 AM
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I did mine in 6 hrs. , solo Left the transfer case on (had to chain the tranny down real good to the jack).
Although I did have the benifit of a lift.

Good luck with the rear crossmember, it's literally wedged between the frame rails and needed a little bit of persuation with a large hammer.
Old 03-28-2005, 10:40 AM
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If you have a porta power it helps to save tones of time with the cross member.
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