I had to put electric tape on my wooden dowels, the tappets kept slipping out. They have to be tight but not damage the tappet. I think that I used 2in abs pipe and just cut it in half with my skill saw for the tray. The trickest part is what wire or fishing line to use. I used a piece of the dowel cut to 1/4in in lenght. Sometimes the wire/line breaks and you drop the tappet. It takes patient and some time to get the tappets turned into position as the cam bore diameter is smaller than the lifter is tall. If I can do it drinking beer, you should have no problems. Buy an extend able magnet for your fishing trips. At my local cummins shop they almost gave me their tool as nobody wanted to use it, so it might not hurt to ask them if you could borrow their tool.

 

The cummins tool has a metal tray, if its thin enough it might make it easier to get new tappets in. Also has a rubber stopper that plugs into the top of the tappet. Mike I haven't ordered the cam yet, a little nervous about the install. Don't want truck down for no more than a couple of days. I think I can get it done in a day, so long as there is no problems. I always allow time for problems.

 

Nice thing is that you don't have to remove the head. The bad thing is the front of the truck has to come apart. Intercooler, radiator, ac (you can move it out of the way). Buy a F1 cam, you don't need to place the tappets, but you have to replace the springs for the cam. The special tool valve spring compressor makes the spring replacement so much easier. Its not to bad of job, if you have the know how. I hate doing head gasket replacements worse than the cam swap, at least your getting some value for your hard work.

 

Mike do you have to use the special valve spring compressor tool. Can you use a tool and do 1 spring at a time. The special tool looks like you have to pull all the injectors, seems like a pita, at least the tool from Source auto motive..

 

Yeah the Millar compressor tool you have to remove the injectors but It's alot nicer doing 4 at a time instead of 1.

Brett

 

You could always mount your truck to a rotisserie and roll it over that way

 

I didn't like the dowel rubber band route for holding lifters up. What I did was remove the injection pump and lifter cover on the side of block. After the rockers and pushrods were removed I used a mini hose clamp and magnet. Use magnet to hold lifter up while tightening hose clamp on lifter. Don't have to worry about dropping lifter into pan since they are held up with hose clamps. I have used this method and it works.

 

I used some old clothe hangers... and bent a fish hook almost in them.
Then I used clothes pins to hold the clothe hangers up.

 

I wouldn't worry about worrying about pulling the injectors. The rockers and rocker pad will be out of there, so there almost no work to remove the injector. Just remember to back off the injector tube connector nuts, as the injector connector tube needs some room. A good pointer is to use the cam tray to push the tappet all the way up so it sticks in that position. The next issue is lining up the gears for the injection pumpgear/cam/crank gears. If you line the marks prior to pulling the cam gear, your in good shape. Its abit of work, it sounds tricky but its isn't that hard. You have to remove your bumper, intercooler and rad. If its your first time going in that far, you might want to use some good pentrating oil on the bumper bolts. Also do a good job washing your rad and intercooler. Put on a new accessory belt and new front crank seal, while the truck's apart. A easy weekend job to get you out of the house. My neighbors usually come by so I need a few refreshment breaks.

 

Thanks Mike, now all I need is the cam. I hate waiting, 50 yrs old and feel like a kid at x-mas waiting for my new toy. Also going to tab the KDP while i'm in there.