Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Bypass Filter Feed

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-09-2008, 10:37 PM
  #16  
Registered User
 
AH64ID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by smokinram99
the fuel filler cap with port is only for the 2004 and later Cummins?? Can I use it on my 2nd Gen.??
I am not sure, find a 3rd gen buddy and see if their oil cap works... then the only issue would be clearance...

On the 2nd gen you can use the dual remote w/out the pressure issue.
Old 03-09-2008, 10:49 PM
  #17  
Banned
 
Deezel Nate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Frantz takes abouta quart of oil and they say to change it every 3000 miles.

I did mine every 2500 miles though.

Oil is ~$10/gal, so if you drove 20,000 miles/year that would be $20 in makeup oil in 1 year.

That being said, I got tired of changing it. It can be messy and also take a bit of time. I liked it at first, but it got old after a while.

I ended up buying an Amsoil setup. Was a little over $100 for the filter housing and the big filter. I'll have some more $$ tied into hydraulic lines and a few fittings as well, but it's not too bad.
Old 03-09-2008, 11:31 PM
  #18  
Registered User
 
AH64ID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Deezel Nate
The Frantz takes abouta quart of oil and they say to change it every 3000 miles.

I did mine every 2500 miles though.

Oil is ~$10/gal, so if you drove 20,000 miles/year that would be $20 in makeup oil in 1 year.

That being said, I got tired of changing it. It can be messy and also take a bit of time. I liked it at first, but it got old after a while.

I ended up buying an Amsoil setup. Was a little over $100 for the filter housing and the big filter. I'll have some more $$ tied into hydraulic lines and a few fittings as well, but it's not too bad.
I guess it depends on the oil you use, my Amsoil is about $30/gal....

Are you the Idaho Nate?
Old 03-10-2008, 05:44 AM
  #19  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Txwelder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I wasnt suggesting to not use the full flow filter, I was just stating that you didnt have to relocate it as well as install the bypass.
Old 03-10-2008, 06:18 AM
  #20  
Registered User
 
blackimpala's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 634
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think it depends on what 2nd gen you are talking about. On my 96 I removed the filler pipe from the front of the engine, drilled and taped a hole for a hose barb for the return oil. Has worked well foe about two years.
Old 03-10-2008, 07:28 AM
  #21  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Txwelder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
That is the route I am going to take.
Old 03-10-2008, 12:15 PM
  #22  
Registered User
 
Big Blue24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 2,051
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
TX Welder, how is that s300 working out for you, now that you have it all tuned? My 3rd gen turbo setup is sweet! The plumbing of the exhaust has been the biggest pain of the whole project.

How are your cruising egts, boost, etc. This turbo runs a little hotter on the bottom end for sure, takes a little longer to cool off when you pull up to park, but it definitely runs cooler on the topend. Which is counter intuitive it's 9cm!
Old 03-10-2008, 12:53 PM
  #23  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Txwelder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Turbo is running great and the exhaust was the hardest part for me as well because I made my own DP. It does run warmer on the bottom end and boost is pretty much nil until you give it some fuel but it cools awesome. Good for 396/783 with a slipping tranny. Probably have better numbers just cant get them to the ground. I do notice that it is taking forever to break in the exhaust housing because when it gets hot, it stinks to high heaven. I assume its the exhaust housing breaking in?
Old 03-11-2008, 11:07 PM
  #24  
Banned
 
Deezel Nate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yup.

$10 a gal was the price of Rotella or the other one in the blue jug (forget the name now)

I am going to run Schaeffers next oil change and that's $17/gal.

Originally Posted by ah64id
I guess it depends on the oil you use, my Amsoil is about $30/gal....

Are you the Idaho Nate?
Old 03-12-2008, 12:31 AM
  #25  
Registered User
 
Big Blue24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 2,051
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I finally got my exhaust hooked up and it stinks too! On my truck, it is the new exhaust tubing, not the turbine housing itself.
Old 03-12-2008, 05:34 AM
  #26  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Txwelder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Probaby the same for mine, didnt think about that new piece of tubing I had bent for the DP. It is also pretty close to the firewall and insullation so those higher low boost temps are probably heating it up pretty well.
Old 03-20-2008, 09:03 PM
  #27  
Registered User
 
Richardjc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Greeting, I have used Frantz filters for years I didn't change them often 5-7000mi. For some reason I stoped useing them I still have one on my 1950 Chevy moving van. I just got reinterested in them and came looking for threads about them. I have two that I took off cars before I sold them, I plan to put them on my tractor and one of the other vehicles. I'm looking forward to having them on and as before I don't plan to change adding oil only to maintain level and add displaced oil at filter change.
Old 03-21-2008, 02:17 PM
  #28  
Registered User
 
wcbcruzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,615
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Richardjc
Greeting, I have used Frantz filters for years I didn't change them often 5-7000mi. For some reason I stoped useing them I still have one on my 1950 Chevy moving van. I just got reinterested in them and came looking for threads about them. I have two that I took off cars before I sold them, I plan to put them on my tractor and one of the other vehicles. I'm looking forward to having them on and as before I don't plan to change adding oil only to maintain level and add displaced oil at filter change.
Sounds like a good plan. Frantz is the best bypass filter you can get. You can tell when it's time to change it by touching the filter housing when the engine is warm. If it feels warm too then it means oil is still circulating through the toilet paper. If not, it's time to change!
Old 03-21-2008, 05:25 PM
  #29  
Registered User
 
Richardjc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by wcbcruzer
Sounds like a good plan. Frantz is the best bypass filter you can get. You can tell when it's time to change it by touching the filter housing when the engine is warm. If it feels warm too then it means oil is still circulating through the toilet paper. If not, it's time to change!
That sounds right!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
beardedone
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
2
09-09-2008 01:58 PM
VinDiesel
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
2
12-03-2002 08:06 PM
VinDiesel
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
4
11-08-2002 09:22 PM



Quick Reply: Bypass Filter Feed



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:58 AM.