building my own trans
#16
shift kits raise the line pressure to hold more power..... anything higher then that requires a custom valve body which is where im dreading haha.....
Originally Posted by 2500CTD
Ok so whith out starting an argument. What would be done to increase the torque capacity of the tranny? I have rebuilt a couple 727's as well. I just started thinking about doin gthis as well, since it would be quicker than trying to save the $$ up. So of course a TC, either a valve body or a shift kit and what else? Raise the line pressure, and what is done that allows the fluid to recirulate in park the same it does in neutral? I plan on using it with an exhaust brake so I have to take that into account as well. I havent researched a whole lot on the mods performed. Keep up updated on how it goes.
#17
I was looking at Goerends tranny. But since I loke getting dirty, and other people are talking about building trannys It got me thinking. Never a good thing. Just today I noticed the tranny slipping more than I was used too. Went into thrid at 2K rpms, after ther shift fed more fuel and the rpms went up over 2K. The truck was pulling but man that tranny is getting sloppy.....
#18
rebuild
2 things i have done. enlarge the oil holes in the intermediate shaft. about .050 larger, takes a real good drill bit. make absolutely sure the trans coolers are clear. if in doubt install new ones. most of the od units are destroyed from lack of lube.
#19
below are the directions for going to a 5/5 friction steel lockup over the stock 4/4
If you have a digital caliper measure the thickness of a steel and a friction together. I don't have it in my head but you will probably come up around 160 thou. If you machine off the thickness you just measured off of the reaction plate you will then be able to add another friction and steel. You will have to repeat this measurement/procedure for the overdrive as well.
This would give you a five count in each pack.
The OEM piston for third gear isn't the greatest and you may want to consider an aftermarket one if it looks warped or if it has distinct riding marks on it. Also if you have any doubts in the seals replace them
If you have a digital caliper measure the thickness of a steel and a friction together. I don't have it in my head but you will probably come up around 160 thou. If you machine off the thickness you just measured off of the reaction plate you will then be able to add another friction and steel. You will have to repeat this measurement/procedure for the overdrive as well.
This would give you a five count in each pack.
The OEM piston for third gear isn't the greatest and you may want to consider an aftermarket one if it looks warped or if it has distinct riding marks on it. Also if you have any doubts in the seals replace them
#20
Originally Posted by storx
below are the directions for going to a 5/5 friction steel lockup over the stock 4/4
If you have a digital caliper measure the thickness of a steel and a friction together. I don't have it in my head but you will probably come up around 160 thou. If you machine off the thickness you just measured off of the reaction plate you will then be able to add another friction and steel. You will have to repeat this measurement/procedure for the overdrive as well.
This would give you a five count in each pack.
The OEM piston for third gear isn't the greatest and you may want to consider an aftermarket one if it looks warped or if it has distinct riding marks on it. Also if you have any doubts in the seals replace them
If you have a digital caliper measure the thickness of a steel and a friction together. I don't have it in my head but you will probably come up around 160 thou. If you machine off the thickness you just measured off of the reaction plate you will then be able to add another friction and steel. You will have to repeat this measurement/procedure for the overdrive as well.
This would give you a five count in each pack.
The OEM piston for third gear isn't the greatest and you may want to consider an aftermarket one if it looks warped or if it has distinct riding marks on it. Also if you have any doubts in the seals replace them
#22
Last time I checked, ATS sold a trans rebuild kit - comes with all your seals, frictions, bands, etc to make a super heavy duty trans - even has the machined pistons to fit the extra clutches. They also have a VB do it yourself kit. Going this route is very inexpensive, at least compared to buying an entire trans! Your only major purchase would be a converter of your choice.
#26
Does anyone have any concerns that there might not be enough room on the splined section of the input shaft/hub sections that a 6th clutch "might" drop off? The 48 RE holds 5 as Justin said and is working great in the last tranny that I did. Why worry about the OD OD section? It has a lot more capacity than the direct drum does, so the direct should slip LONG before the OD section will.
Give Dave G a call, that is where I get my stuff, hell of a nice guy!!
Give Dave G a call, that is where I get my stuff, hell of a nice guy!!
#27
Originally Posted by Mcmopar
Does anyone have any concerns that there might not be enough room on the splined section of the input shaft/hub sections that a 6th clutch "might" drop off? The 48 RE holds 5 as Justin said and is working great in the last tranny that I did. Why worry about the OD OD section? It has a lot more capacity than the direct drum does, so the direct should slip LONG before the OD section will.
Give Dave G a call, that is where I get my stuff, hell of a nice guy!!
Give Dave G a call, that is where I get my stuff, hell of a nice guy!!
Will he sell a kit? I was looking to get a complete tranny from him, but I wouldn't mind building mine either.
#30
Originally Posted by justinp20012500
On second thought you can buy the DTT master rebuild kit for about as much as you can buy all the parts from TCS, or sonnax.
Thats what I'm going to do Justin. Either DTTs or Suncoasts and upgrade to a billet accumulator and billet servo.
Oh and Justin by the way, my bank account is getting close to the "money set aside for a TC" mark!