Brakes!!! Time for new ones already HELP
10-22-2006, 04:14 PM
#16
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Hawk HPS pads and Brembo plain rotors from www.tirerack.com are what I've used on dozens of CTD trucks. Excellent combination with long wear, minimal dust and good price.
If you have rear drums replace the cylinders with larger bore (Napa #4637337 @ $13 each) and keep the shoes adjusted. Front pads last much, much longer when the rears are doing their share of the work.
If you have rear drums replace the cylinders with larger bore (Napa #4637337 @ $13 each) and keep the shoes adjusted. Front pads last much, much longer when the rears are doing their share of the work.
10-23-2006, 10:28 PM
#19
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SS Lines will get rid of some of the pedal feel, but for our application, I don't think they are worth it. If I had copious amounts of cash, I would get them, but until I do, I will have the OEM ones. Unless you haul loaded all the time, then get an engine break.
Slotted rotor are supposed to dissipate the heat, but only have about 94% of the surface area of a whole rotor. You have to decide what you would rather have.
If you have waited until your brakes went out to try and decide all this, that's not the best planning. You should do your research before you need things for your truck. That eliminates down time and ill decision mking. You probably end up spending more as well.
Slotted rotor are supposed to dissipate the heat, but only have about 94% of the surface area of a whole rotor. You have to decide what you would rather have.
If you have waited until your brakes went out to try and decide all this, that's not the best planning. You should do your research before you need things for your truck. That eliminates down time and ill decision mking. You probably end up spending more as well.
10-24-2006, 02:20 AM
#20
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Slotted may only have 94% of the surface area but after being in the stops I've been in with mine I'll never own another set of normal rotors. The truck stops so much better with the Hawk pads and slotted rotors.
10-24-2006, 08:49 AM
#22
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Get an exhaust brake!!
I have over 108,000 miles on my current brakes. and have half the pad left. I have 183,000 miles on the original factory rotors, but will likely have to replace them at the next brake service. I drive with the exaust brake on all the time. Regardless if I am towing or not. It works great empty and is a real comfort with 11,000 lbs. in tow on a downhill grade. Just do not make the same mistake I did. If you have not already upgraded to a larger turbo, but feel you will want to at some point, do not get a turbo mount exhaust brake. I want to upgrade, but that increases the purchase price at the time by the price of an inline exhaust brake.
Take infidel's advice and do the rear cylinder upgrade. It is cheap, easy, and one of the best bang for the buck modifications you can do to your Dodge.
I have over 108,000 miles on my current brakes. and have half the pad left. I have 183,000 miles on the original factory rotors, but will likely have to replace them at the next brake service. I drive with the exaust brake on all the time. Regardless if I am towing or not. It works great empty and is a real comfort with 11,000 lbs. in tow on a downhill grade. Just do not make the same mistake I did. If you have not already upgraded to a larger turbo, but feel you will want to at some point, do not get a turbo mount exhaust brake. I want to upgrade, but that increases the purchase price at the time by the price of an inline exhaust brake.
Take infidel's advice and do the rear cylinder upgrade. It is cheap, easy, and one of the best bang for the buck modifications you can do to your Dodge.
10-24-2006, 06:25 PM
#24
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So which slotted rotors? DPPI cyro? Tire racks? Which?
Thanks for all the advise. Kind of took me by suprise that the brakes were giving up already.
Turbi upgrade I hope soon so no exhaust brake for me. I never tow anything over 4k pounds either.
Thanks again for the advise
Thanks for all the advise. Kind of took me by suprise that the brakes were giving up already.
Turbi upgrade I hope soon so no exhaust brake for me. I never tow anything over 4k pounds either.
Thanks again for the advise
10-24-2006, 09:32 PM
#25
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which exhaust brakes are prefered? could someone provide a link?
thanks,
thanks,
Get an exhaust brake!!
I have over 108,000 miles on my current brakes. and have half the pad left. I have 183,000 miles on the original factory rotors, but will likely have to replace them at the next brake service. I drive with the exaust brake on all the time. Regardless if I am towing or not. It works great empty and is a real comfort with 11,000 lbs. in tow on a downhill grade. Just do not make the same mistake I did. If you have not already upgraded to a larger turbo, but feel you will want to at some point, do not get a turbo mount exhaust brake. I want to upgrade, but that increases the purchase price at the time by the price of an inline exhaust brake.
Take infidel's advice and do the rear cylinder upgrade. It is cheap, easy, and one of the best bang for the buck modifications you can do to your Dodge.
I have over 108,000 miles on my current brakes. and have half the pad left. I have 183,000 miles on the original factory rotors, but will likely have to replace them at the next brake service. I drive with the exaust brake on all the time. Regardless if I am towing or not. It works great empty and is a real comfort with 11,000 lbs. in tow on a downhill grade. Just do not make the same mistake I did. If you have not already upgraded to a larger turbo, but feel you will want to at some point, do not get a turbo mount exhaust brake. I want to upgrade, but that increases the purchase price at the time by the price of an inline exhaust brake.
Take infidel's advice and do the rear cylinder upgrade. It is cheap, easy, and one of the best bang for the buck modifications you can do to your Dodge.
10-24-2006, 09:45 PM
#26
Registered User
I was looking at them whn I was going to by my 2006 6 spd. If I remember correctly, Pac-Brake is the only one that makes an inline brake mounted in the exhaust under the truck. And it is 4".
This is definitely the way to go instead of a turbo mounted one, if you even have an inkling about changing turbos.
I think it is www.pac-brake.com.
This is definitely the way to go instead of a turbo mounted one, if you even have an inkling about changing turbos.
I think it is www.pac-brake.com.
10-24-2006, 10:18 PM
#27
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I believe the US Gear Decelerator is mounted under the truck as well, although I have no experience with it. I have installed the BD exhaust brake on several trucks (mounts to rear of turbo) and I have found it to be a good unit. www.bd-power.com
10-25-2006, 03:01 PM
#29
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Here is my opinion
Slotted/drilled/cryoed/sodomized rotors are GREAT for road racing, etc. where heat buildup and brake fade is an issue. The tradeoff is less surface area because of holes/slots. This is no big whoop on a 3000 lb sportscar, but the smaller surface area is a big deal on a 7000 lb truck. Also, extreme-duty type pads eat up rotors more quickly because they are more abrasive. The main reason folks go through brakes quick is because the brake bias is incorrect, or they tow heavy with no exhaust brake. I still have yet to see someone show me any proof that the more expensive stuff is better in terms of real world data (such as longevity or even stopping distance.) All i ever hear is platitude speak when it comes to brakes lke "my slotted rotors stop much better."
What does that mean? how about "my slotted rotors dont stop as quickly, but I dont get much pedal fade on long grades."
Also, brake life is a direct product of the installer as well. Take the most expensive brakes in the world on and get the setup wrong, or overlook a caliper that needs to be replaced/rebulit, and they will perform no better than the ones you took off.
Slotted/drilled/cryoed/sodomized rotors are GREAT for road racing, etc. where heat buildup and brake fade is an issue. The tradeoff is less surface area because of holes/slots. This is no big whoop on a 3000 lb sportscar, but the smaller surface area is a big deal on a 7000 lb truck. Also, extreme-duty type pads eat up rotors more quickly because they are more abrasive. The main reason folks go through brakes quick is because the brake bias is incorrect, or they tow heavy with no exhaust brake. I still have yet to see someone show me any proof that the more expensive stuff is better in terms of real world data (such as longevity or even stopping distance.) All i ever hear is platitude speak when it comes to brakes lke "my slotted rotors stop much better."
What does that mean? how about "my slotted rotors dont stop as quickly, but I dont get much pedal fade on long grades."
Also, brake life is a direct product of the installer as well. Take the most expensive brakes in the world on and get the setup wrong, or overlook a caliper that needs to be replaced/rebulit, and they will perform no better than the ones you took off.