Bought a TST #10 Kit - A few questions.
03-24-2007 | 04:33 PM
#1
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From: Youngstown, OH
Bought a TST #10 Kit - A few questions.
If I install it like the instructions specify, will I need a pyro/boost gauge(s)?
Does the boost elbow that comes with the kit have a specific setting so I don't need a boost gauge?
How hard is it to install? I am TERRIBLE at mechanical work mainly because I'm scared to do it.
Are there any chances of fuel leaking? Do I need gaskets?
Does the plate only operate under WOT?
Am I safe with the stock clutch?
Do I have to make any adjustments to the governor arm or starwheel?
I assume I don't need a 3k GSK because of my 215 pump?
I really don't want to go further in mods than this... I'll even slide the plate back a little if I have to.
Does the boost elbow that comes with the kit have a specific setting so I don't need a boost gauge?
How hard is it to install? I am TERRIBLE at mechanical work mainly because I'm scared to do it.
Are there any chances of fuel leaking? Do I need gaskets?
Does the plate only operate under WOT?
Am I safe with the stock clutch?
Do I have to make any adjustments to the governor arm or starwheel?
I assume I don't need a 3k GSK because of my 215 pump?
I really don't want to go further in mods than this... I'll even slide the plate back a little if I have to.
03-24-2007 | 05:05 PM
#2
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From: Denver, Colorado
If I install it like the instructions specify, will I need a pyro/boost gauge(s)?
Pyro and boost are requirements even for a stock engine, to monitor engine health and performance. With a #10 in the stock position you are probably safe without them.
Does the boost elbow that comes with the kit have a specific setting so I don't need a boost gauge?
No. You will have to experiment. A boost gauge helps. A boost gauge is not a toy. I consider it essential.
How hard is it to install? I am TERRIBLE at mechanical work mainly because I'm scared to do it.
Not hard. Many threads here describe the proceedure, as well as the instructions with the kit. Give a holler if you get stuck.
Are there any chances of fuel leaking? Do I need gaskets?
No.
Does the plate only operate under WOT?
No. The plate has potential to operate under all conditions. Most users slide it forward to increase its range. In the stock position you will experience a mild increase at most throttle positions.
Am I safe with the stock clutch?
No. Even a stock engine can be hard on the clutch. Don't abuse it and it will last a long time.
Do I have to make any adjustments to the governor arm or starwheel?
Probably not, if you only want the mild increase at the stock position.
I assume I don't need a 3k GSK because of my 215 pump?
Wrong. 3kGSK is always nice to provide better transitions between gears under load. With the #10 its a nice combination, but of course not necessary.
I really don't want to go further in mods than this... I'll even slide the plate back a little if I have to.
Pyro and boost are requirements even for a stock engine, to monitor engine health and performance. With a #10 in the stock position you are probably safe without them.
Does the boost elbow that comes with the kit have a specific setting so I don't need a boost gauge?
No. You will have to experiment. A boost gauge helps. A boost gauge is not a toy. I consider it essential.
How hard is it to install? I am TERRIBLE at mechanical work mainly because I'm scared to do it.
Not hard. Many threads here describe the proceedure, as well as the instructions with the kit. Give a holler if you get stuck.
Are there any chances of fuel leaking? Do I need gaskets?
No.
Does the plate only operate under WOT?
No. The plate has potential to operate under all conditions. Most users slide it forward to increase its range. In the stock position you will experience a mild increase at most throttle positions.
Am I safe with the stock clutch?
No. Even a stock engine can be hard on the clutch. Don't abuse it and it will last a long time.
Do I have to make any adjustments to the governor arm or starwheel?
Probably not, if you only want the mild increase at the stock position.
I assume I don't need a 3k GSK because of my 215 pump?
Wrong. 3kGSK is always nice to provide better transitions between gears under load. With the #10 its a nice combination, but of course not necessary.
I really don't want to go further in mods than this... I'll even slide the plate back a little if I have to.
03-24-2007 | 05:16 PM
#4
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From: Youngstown, OH
No. Even a stock engine can be hard on the clutch. Don't abuse it and it will last a long time.
----------------------------------------------
So you are saying I need a new clutch or am I reading this wrong...?
Forgive the noob questions...
03-24-2007 | 05:17 PM
#5
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From: Youngstown, OH
Also, do I need to remove everything the TST instructions say to?
Can I access the AFC housing without removing the intake manifold or fuel line?
Its already freaking me out
Can I access the AFC housing without removing the intake manifold or fuel line?
Its already freaking me out
03-24-2007 | 05:25 PM
#6
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From: Denver, Colorado
It should have a hose from the turbo outlet to the wastegate actuator, with a brass elbow at the outlet. Are you saying it is not present? Is the turbo outlet plugged?
If it is missing, your wastegate is inactive. Not good with no gauges and no way to monitor boost. Replace it, install the TST boost elbow, and get a boost gauge to keep your eye on things.
If it is missing, your wastegate is inactive. Not good with no gauges and no way to monitor boost. Replace it, install the TST boost elbow, and get a boost gauge to keep your eye on things.
03-24-2007 | 05:32 PM
#7
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From: Denver, Colorado
If your clutch is in good condition you don't need to replace it (at this time).
The TST instructions are for those without much mechanical skill, and limited tools. It is time consuming. I took shortcuts by removing hardly anything and cunning use of strange tools. Your choice. Don't put any stress on the injector supply tubes.
It comes to mind that the TST kit provides a replacement non-tamper screw for the AFC housing. I suggest you not use this. Get an equivalent socket head cap screw so that you can easily remove it for multiple adjustment sessions. If your locality requires emissions testing, they will require a dab of yellow paint on it.
The TST instructions are for those without much mechanical skill, and limited tools. It is time consuming. I took shortcuts by removing hardly anything and cunning use of strange tools. Your choice. Don't put any stress on the injector supply tubes.
It comes to mind that the TST kit provides a replacement non-tamper screw for the AFC housing. I suggest you not use this. Get an equivalent socket head cap screw so that you can easily remove it for multiple adjustment sessions. If your locality requires emissions testing, they will require a dab of yellow paint on it.
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03-24-2007 | 05:42 PM
#8
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From: Youngstown, OH
It should have a hose from the turbo outlet to the wastegate actuator, with a brass elbow at the outlet. Are you saying it is not present? Is the turbo outlet plugged?
If it is missing, your wastegate is inactive. Not good with no gauges and no way to monitor boost. Replace it, install the TST boost elbow, and get a boost gauge to keep your eye on things.
If it is missing, your wastegate is inactive. Not good with no gauges and no way to monitor boost. Replace it, install the TST boost elbow, and get a boost gauge to keep your eye on things.
I have a tube from my wastegate to the rear of my AFC housing...
Nothing on the turbo compressor itself...
(I may be wrong)
03-24-2007 | 06:09 PM
#10
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From: Bellingham, Wa
So u got the 10 plate kit after loosing in that pull off huh? well....more POWER to u, lol. I can't wait until I get the 5spd in, and i'm gonna do a 10 plate, let me know how you like it once u get it installed.
03-24-2007 | 07:03 PM
#11
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From: Youngstown, OH
03-24-2007 | 07:04 PM
#12
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From: Youngstown, OH
03-24-2007 | 07:39 PM
#13
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From: Just outside Decatur, TN
97 boost line
I'm sure your 97 is like mine was - the turbo boost line normally runs from the back end of the AFC housing over the top of the engine to the turbo boost actuator. I changed mine to a Turbo-Master boost controller about 2 years ago and like it a lot - seems to hold the boost better until the it reaches the pressure setting to bypass it. I have it set to bypass at close to 38 psi and here in Colorado my max boost is usually around 32-34. As for the 3K GSK I definitely say go for it. Before I installed mine my engine would start to defuel around 24-2500 RPM and by 2700 or so it was all out of steam even with my throttle all the way against the floor. After the 3K GSK, even with the stock fuel plate it would rev to 32-3400 if I had my foot into it. Now, and with the 10 plate, it's a real pleasure to drive - easy on the fuel bill if I drive it conservatively but enough power and RPM range with full power to put a smile on my face if I want to use the power that's available.
Also, I'm still running my stock clutch and so long as I don't try to take off with high revs it won't slip, or at least it doesn't yet. I also highly recommend getting a 4" exhaust - it really lets the engine breathe much better. A BHAF will also help. Also, if you do, or plan to do, any towing after the 10 plate and 3K GSK, definitely get at least a pyro and boost gauge setup. You can run too long with too high EGTs and not know it without the pyro gauge. And like Rare1 said, the boost gauge is a nice tool for monitoring your engine, plus it can help you keep your MPGs up - low boost generally mean higher MPGs. I found this out when towing - if I let the cruise control keep the truck running at hi-way speed it used more fuel, but if I drove watching and using the boost gauge to modulate the throttle a little less than agressively than the cruise control will do.
Steve
Also, I'm still running my stock clutch and so long as I don't try to take off with high revs it won't slip, or at least it doesn't yet. I also highly recommend getting a 4" exhaust - it really lets the engine breathe much better. A BHAF will also help. Also, if you do, or plan to do, any towing after the 10 plate and 3K GSK, definitely get at least a pyro and boost gauge setup. You can run too long with too high EGTs and not know it without the pyro gauge. And like Rare1 said, the boost gauge is a nice tool for monitoring your engine, plus it can help you keep your MPGs up - low boost generally mean higher MPGs. I found this out when towing - if I let the cruise control keep the truck running at hi-way speed it used more fuel, but if I drove watching and using the boost gauge to modulate the throttle a little less than agressively than the cruise control will do.
Steve
03-24-2007 | 07:43 PM
#14
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From: Youngstown, OH
I'm sure your 97 is like mine was - the turbo boost line normally runs from the back end of the AFC housing over the top of the engine to the turbo boost actuator. I changed mine to a Turbo-Master boost controller about 2 years ago and like it a lot - seems to hold the boost better until the it reaches the pressure setting to bypass it. I have it set to bypass at close to 38 psi and here in Colorado my max boost is usually around 32-34. As for the 3K GSK I definitely say go for it. Before I installed mine my engine would start to defuel around 24-2500 RPM and by 2700 or so it was all out of steam even with my throttle all the way against the floor. After the 3K GSK, even with the stock fuel plate it would rev to 32-3400 if I had my foot into it. Now, and with the 10 plate, it's a real pleasure to drive - easy on the fuel bill if I drive it conservatively but enough power and RPM range with full power to put a smile on my face if I want to use the power that's available.
Also, I'm still running my stock clutch and so long as I don't try to take off with high revs it won't slip, or at least it doesn't yet. I also highly recommend getting a 4" exhaust - it really lets the engine breathe much better. A BHAF will also help. Also, if you do, or plan to do, any towing after the 10 plate and 3K GSK, definitely get at least a pyro and boost gauge setup. You can run too long with too high EGTs and not know it without the pyro gauge. And like Rare1 said, the boost gauge is a nice tool for monitoring your engine, plus it can help you keep your MPGs up - low boost generally mean higher MPGs. I found this out when towing - if I let the cruise control keep the truck running at hi-way speed it used more fuel, but if I drove watching and using the boost gauge to modulate the throttle a little less than agressively than the cruise control will do.
Steve
Also, I'm still running my stock clutch and so long as I don't try to take off with high revs it won't slip, or at least it doesn't yet. I also highly recommend getting a 4" exhaust - it really lets the engine breathe much better. A BHAF will also help. Also, if you do, or plan to do, any towing after the 10 plate and 3K GSK, definitely get at least a pyro and boost gauge setup. You can run too long with too high EGTs and not know it without the pyro gauge. And like Rare1 said, the boost gauge is a nice tool for monitoring your engine, plus it can help you keep your MPGs up - low boost generally mean higher MPGs. I found this out when towing - if I let the cruise control keep the truck running at hi-way speed it used more fuel, but if I drove watching and using the boost gauge to modulate the throttle a little less than agressively than the cruise control will do.
Steve
03-24-2007 | 11:48 PM
#15
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From: Collinsville, Oklahoma
The line from the turbo to the rear of the AFC housing is used to tell the AFC how much boost the turbo is creating so the arm inside the AFC housing will move forward for the governor arm to start following the profile of the fuel plate. The AFC is what helps control the smoke with no boost. The autos are different in configuration than sticks. The TST boost elbow on the autos are located at the turbo, the boost elbow for the sticks is installed on the AFC housing.
As far as needing an EGT and boost guage, I say get both installed before installing the fuel plate. I have my #10 plate set a little forward of center, approx .030 the AFC housing is full forward with the TST medium spring installed an adjusted to control smoke and I could reach 31lbs of boost with no problems and the egt's were in check. I recently added some DDP stage 2 injectors and gained another 5lbs of boost and still minted good egt's. Some guys have got by running more boost and not loose a head gasket and some guys haven't been so lucky. How you drive the truck and watch the guages will determine how long things last especially the clutch, hg and other things.
As far as needing an EGT and boost guage, I say get both installed before installing the fuel plate. I have my #10 plate set a little forward of center, approx .030 the AFC housing is full forward with the TST medium spring installed an adjusted to control smoke and I could reach 31lbs of boost with no problems and the egt's were in check. I recently added some DDP stage 2 injectors and gained another 5lbs of boost and still minted good egt's. Some guys have got by running more boost and not loose a head gasket and some guys haven't been so lucky. How you drive the truck and watch the guages will determine how long things last especially the clutch, hg and other things.