Block prep for new head
01-17-2009, 11:51 AM
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Block prep for new head
What needs to be done to the block to get it prepped and cleaned for the new head thats going on next week? Any special stuff that needs to be done? Also, whas the process for bottom tapping the holes for the studs (what siz tap/ where to get it?)?
01-17-2009, 10:58 PM
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Yes it is but on the dyno it hits a brick wall at max hp! I run out of air. It smokes like a freight train though. I'm in the process of doing the head work and twins and get the full potential out of the pump! Its awesome. My injectors are 150 horse
01-18-2009, 09:44 PM
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Good call on chase threading the holes. Head stud is 12mm but I don't remember the pitch. It is a common one
This is a very overlooked process until the popularity of studing. My father taught me to chase thread ANY hole in a casting (early 70's) to clean up the accumulated blow-by, rust, etc. Amazing how much comes out of the holes around a thermostat housing. More amazing how much comes out of the block at the head even on a N/A diesel. A lot of soot is forced into the holes.
Get a true bottoming tap. Run the tap down until you find the bottom of the hole. Mark the tap and do it again and again and again. You will usually find a hole that is tapped as deep as the rest. As long as the hole is deep enough, you can finish the threads. Auto tapping machines always tend to leave one hole a bit shallow. Doesn't get noticed with head bolts, but shows up when you go to studs. Studs should bottom on the casting, not the threads.
Blocks tend to run very true. Roll it over and check around the main bearings for cracks. Get a girdle.
This is a very overlooked process until the popularity of studing. My father taught me to chase thread ANY hole in a casting (early 70's) to clean up the accumulated blow-by, rust, etc. Amazing how much comes out of the holes around a thermostat housing. More amazing how much comes out of the block at the head even on a N/A diesel. A lot of soot is forced into the holes.
Get a true bottoming tap. Run the tap down until you find the bottom of the hole. Mark the tap and do it again and again and again. You will usually find a hole that is tapped as deep as the rest. As long as the hole is deep enough, you can finish the threads. Auto tapping machines always tend to leave one hole a bit shallow. Doesn't get noticed with head bolts, but shows up when you go to studs. Studs should bottom on the casting, not the threads.
Blocks tend to run very true. Roll it over and check around the main bearings for cracks. Get a girdle.
01-18-2009, 10:37 PM
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Good call on chase threading the holes. Head stud is 12mm but I don't remember the pitch. It is a common one
This is a very overlooked process until the popularity of studing. My father taught me to chase thread ANY hole in a casting (early 70's) to clean up the accumulated blow-by, rust, etc. Amazing how much comes out of the holes around a thermostat housing. More amazing how much comes out of the block at the head even on a N/A diesel. A lot of soot is forced into the holes.
Get a true bottoming tap. Run the tap down until you find the bottom of the hole. Mark the tap and do it again and again and again. You will usually find a hole that is tapped as deep as the rest. As long as the hole is deep enough, you can finish the threads. Auto tapping machines always tend to leave one hole a bit shallow. Doesn't get noticed with head bolts, but shows up when you go to studs. Studs should bottom on the casting, not the threads.
Blocks tend to run very true. Roll it over and check around the main bearings for cracks. Get a girdle.
This is a very overlooked process until the popularity of studing. My father taught me to chase thread ANY hole in a casting (early 70's) to clean up the accumulated blow-by, rust, etc. Amazing how much comes out of the holes around a thermostat housing. More amazing how much comes out of the block at the head even on a N/A diesel. A lot of soot is forced into the holes.
Get a true bottoming tap. Run the tap down until you find the bottom of the hole. Mark the tap and do it again and again and again. You will usually find a hole that is tapped as deep as the rest. As long as the hole is deep enough, you can finish the threads. Auto tapping machines always tend to leave one hole a bit shallow. Doesn't get noticed with head bolts, but shows up when you go to studs. Studs should bottom on the casting, not the threads.
Blocks tend to run very true. Roll it over and check around the main bearings for cracks. Get a girdle.
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