Blew the HG.... Again!
10-22-2006, 04:24 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Blew the HG.... Again!
Ok, just got the turbo on, was going to go do some tuning on the AFC since it was warm out. Yes the truck was at operating temp before laying on the boost. Made 49 psi on a few passes and the last one ended in a pop followed by steam. Thought maybe that I blew the frost plug on the back of the block, nope. The HG was sticking out of the back above the frost plug. The head is studded and o-ringed, retorqued every other oil change. Dont understand why it popped again? I thought I could hold more boost than that. I just put in a .020 Marine HG in April. Now I gots a few questions:
Do I need to have the o-rings redone?
Anything to do to prevent this from happening again?
Thanks in advance.
Do I need to have the o-rings redone?
Anything to do to prevent this from happening again?
Thanks in advance.
11-23-2006, 10:50 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i would try the .090 marine gasket it seems to work good for me i have a hx 40 turbo now but i did have a 8.3 turbo for a long time but it just took to long to spool up so i got rid of it hope this helps
11-24-2006, 02:38 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Southern, Indiana
Posts: 5,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another reason not to waste money on O rings....
I would venture to bet that either your head or BLOCK is warped.
If your block is warped it will need to be removed and decked or will need replacement.
I would venture to bet that either your head or BLOCK is warped.
If your block is warped it will need to be removed and decked or will need replacement.
11-24-2006, 08:21 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hershey, PA
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry to hear about your problems..... Posiible issues could be the o-ring itself, head or block flatness. I would recommend checking both the head and block plus ensure the ring grooves are uniform. What material was used for the rings? We use a hard stainless steel wire of either .041 or .051 in diameter. Some wire being used is too soft in my opinion. Also we leave .010-.014 protrusion depending on the application. You should not have to retorque the head at every other oil change. Once the rings are seated completely it should be fine.
I feel very different on o-rings than PourinDiesel, I feel they are the best solution for a street driven truck. Done correct the o-rings will last the life of the engine and handle 80+ psi boost. I like fire-rings for trucks that are exclusively used at the track or are pushing boost above the 90 psi range.
Doug Smith
I feel very different on o-rings than PourinDiesel, I feel they are the best solution for a street driven truck. Done correct the o-rings will last the life of the engine and handle 80+ psi boost. I like fire-rings for trucks that are exclusively used at the track or are pushing boost above the 90 psi range.
Doug Smith
11-24-2006, 08:24 AM
#6
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Omaha, AR
Posts: 4,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
11-24-2006, 09:02 AM
#8
Registered User
As mentioned above, and from what I've seen, the quality of the groove work and the head decking can also make or break a successful o-ring job.
RJ
11-24-2006, 11:58 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Southern, Indiana
Posts: 5,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
as opposed to running what????????
Been there done that with O rings a couple of years before you joined this website.
11-24-2006, 07:18 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Southern, Indiana
Posts: 5,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All I am trying to say is that most people dont need O rings to begin with.
A good torqued gasket with studs or bolts will hold up to some pretty good boost/drive pressures if your not running gas.
A good torqued gasket with studs or bolts will hold up to some pretty good boost/drive pressures if your not running gas.
11-24-2006, 07:30 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Williston, ND
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so what you're saying is on say a truck like my 97 i should just try using 12mm head studs and then if it blows go to a marine gasket then if it blows again go to marine gasket and o-rings
11-24-2006, 07:41 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Southern, Indiana
Posts: 5,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First I would re-torque with stock bolts. Next step move up to studs. If you blow then I would go with the new gasket and re-assemble.
Its really all what you want to do.
Some will say that go with O rings from the start and you will be fine forever and that just is not TRUE for all trucks. If you read in the last month or so there has been 3 or 4 trucks that have O rings or Fire Rings done by reputable shops and they still have gasket blowing issues.
Another thing to consider is that once you cut a head for O rings then every time you take that head off you will probably have to have it re-decked and re-cut for O rings and new O rings installed (that can only happens a couple times before the head is junk).
Its really all what you want to do.
Some will say that go with O rings from the start and you will be fine forever and that just is not TRUE for all trucks. If you read in the last month or so there has been 3 or 4 trucks that have O rings or Fire Rings done by reputable shops and they still have gasket blowing issues.
Another thing to consider is that once you cut a head for O rings then every time you take that head off you will probably have to have it re-decked and re-cut for O rings and new O rings installed (that can only happens a couple times before the head is junk).
11-24-2006, 07:58 PM
#14
Chapter President
Pourin Diesel, How much torque can stock bolts receive on a re-torque. If I remember right, it's 90 ft.lbs plus a 1/4?? turn from the factory.
What is the correct way to re-torque stock bolts. Do I re-torque them cold or warm?
Edit: I believe you are correct in what you say, I know of people running twins on re-torqued head bolts 60 psi +.
I want to had a 50 hp shot of nitrous, I don't know what the cylinder pressure spike would be, but I don't plan on hitting the button until I'm locked in O/D and above 2000 rpms.
What is the correct way to re-torque stock bolts. Do I re-torque them cold or warm?
Edit: I believe you are correct in what you say, I know of people running twins on re-torqued head bolts 60 psi +.
I want to had a 50 hp shot of nitrous, I don't know what the cylinder pressure spike would be, but I don't plan on hitting the button until I'm locked in O/D and above 2000 rpms.
11-24-2006, 08:03 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Southern, Indiana
Posts: 5,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You re-torque cold.
A 24V final torque value will be 105 newton meters + 90 degrees.
Make sure to lube the bolts with some wd40 before re-install.
Best way to do it is loosen first bolt then re-install and torque. One by one.
Start in center of engine and work your way outward.
A 24V final torque value will be 105 newton meters + 90 degrees.
Make sure to lube the bolts with some wd40 before re-install.
Best way to do it is loosen first bolt then re-install and torque. One by one.
Start in center of engine and work your way outward.