Eradan

So ...

If anyone wants yet ANOTHER KDP thread ... please for the love of god, TAB YOUR KDP.

Here's where i'm at with my KDP repair and rebuild so far.

It's a 95 auto with a DTT auto (truck in my signature).

Questions .... while it's apart ... cam or no cam?
Going to build my twins while it's apart ... my thoughts so far are 14cm exhaust housing on the 35 .... and a 32cm s400 on bottom. (or an ht3b?)
4k GSK.
Possibly have the pump bench tuned.
60lb valve springs.
Advance the timing to 17.5 or 18 degrees.
This coupled with some DDP4's should yield me 550?
New down-pipe (5" from turbo to stacks).
Converting to a single 6" stack possibly (from the duel 5").

And the maintenance items:
Rebuilding the vaccum pump.
New water pump.
Rewiring my battery, removing the second one.

Suggestions please!

I'd like to get a semi-towable, semi-streetable 550 - 600hp.

Pics (dialup warning, huge pics).:

http://lanbash.com/cover.jpg
http://lanbash.com/front.jpg
http://lanbash.com/crack.jpg

Troutstrannysvc

I'd give a big thumbs up on installing a new cam!
I installed mine just because I was there and could access it easily and I was kinda regretting my investment but after I yanked the old cam and saw the wear on it I was glad I did purchase another cam!

ratsun

I look at a cam swap as the icing on the cake.
You wont need it to reach the results you want but it will accent it so if you can afford it then I say go for it. You will notice some lower temps with one but with the twins you should be able to get away with out it. I don't see o-ring/firering in your list so if its not I would put the money there before a new cam though

rebal

Bummer man I just did a 92 that dropped a bolt and a 97 i was changing the front seal and the bolts behind the cam gear were coming out! I wont let a truck leave the shop with out the tab and bolts loctighted all high mileage trucks NEED IT DONE!! oh ya do the cam and O ring it

Eradan

I really would rather put my money elsewhere (than the cam). I've heard horror stories about the re-grings, and a helix is $800+.

Headwork is DEFINITELY on the list. But i'm trying to leave the head on for now, only reason the valve springs are on the list is they rockers will already be off

Headwork planned will be the norm, gasket, oringged, fireringed, possibly some porting, and i'm on the fence for studs.

Really trying to concentrate on the stuff that will already be apart right now. I considered an inter-cooler, but everyone say's the stocky is good to 650+hp easily.

Troutstrannysvc

I would definitely check the cam. I have read on numerous sites by some very well reputable people that the camshaft is the #1 wear on our engines.
Helix's you can get for $750, you can get Max Spool regrinds cheaper, not sure on Schieds.
I wouldn't put a regrind in for longevity. JMO

Eradan

OK ... so here's the update ... still looking for some feedback.

Ordered a maxspool 2 From greg (and 60lb springs). Should be here this week. Have the cam out on the table. So far it looks very good, no visable signs of wear.

Here's what i'm looking at for the bottom for the new set:

Schwitzer HT3B Turbo with 26CM Undivided Turbine Housing. I've onsidered he 32cm housing but w/ the auto it seems large.

Still planning on the DDP4's or 5's havn't decided.

Going to put off the headwork until AFTER i get it back together and have the money to do it right. Looking at about 900 in the head with orings, double thick gasket and porting.

So my hope is to be ~ 550 to 600 with this setup ... any thoughts?

aksparkey01

i dont think your going to make it without studs and orings. you will want some different dv's with those big sticks. i would say go with 191dvs and ddp3's.

Eradan

I'm not going to push more than 45lbs until the headwork is done. I'm hoping to get to that point in 2 - 3 months. I gotta get the truck on the road so i can get my wife's car pulled in for some LONG overdue work, and get some yard work done before it's 120 degrees outside!

I'm still on the fence with studs, i really don't think i'm going to go with studs, i know quite a few guy's running properly torqued stock bolts ~ 75lbs reliably. So until they have issues i'm not going to spend my money on studs.

.Chad