Better Headstuds
03-23-2006, 06:32 AM
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Better Headstuds
Who would be interested (I mean really willing to purchase within the next 60 days) a much better headstud? I am talking about one that is 12mm so that it will fit our blocks with no issues and is made of better material.... Something that we can consistantly torque to 160+ lbs!
Now the question is what would you be willing to pay.... I may have a line on this product but it looks like the studs will go for $700-$800, if I can get enough orders I may be able to get them for around $600 a set. This would be for the 12v, 24v, and CR guys.
Let me know what you think.
Doug Smith
Now the question is what would you be willing to pay.... I may have a line on this product but it looks like the studs will go for $700-$800, if I can get enough orders I may be able to get them for around $600 a set. This would be for the 12v, 24v, and CR guys.
Let me know what you think.
Doug Smith
03-23-2006, 06:41 AM
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Sorry Doug-- my heart is there, but the money isn't. Unless military pay goes up to CEO levels, I can't spend that much money on the truck
What's the KSI rating of this material? 240+? It would have to be pretty high, as the ARPs are 220, iirc...
What's the KSI rating of this material? 240+? It would have to be pretty high, as the ARPs are 220, iirc...
03-23-2006, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
Sorry Doug-- my heart is there, but the money isn't. Unless military pay goes up to CEO levels, I can't spend that much money on the truck
What's the KSI rating of this material? 240+? It would have to be pretty high, as the ARPs are 220, iirc...
What's the KSI rating of this material? 240+? It would have to be pretty high, as the ARPs are 220, iirc...
03-23-2006, 09:06 AM
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arps and a smarty are next for me, but im worried about fitment issues. i hear i will have to grind my valve cover to make them fit??
whats the deal with studs on a 24v
whats the deal with studs on a 24v
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03-23-2006, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by signature600
At what point do we pull the threads out of the block??
Chris
Chris
How much clamping can we get out of studs before we distort the block enough to warrant re-machining??
It's not fun to need a new bore/hone and new pistons just because you installed studs..
ARPs in the 22ksi material have proven to be pretty safe in terms of block distortion and give a nice increase in clamping. They are somewhat reasonable in price.
hmmmm.
03-23-2006, 11:55 AM
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Guys we are talking about a materal that would be in the 280K range! As for the no grinding valve covers..... Well we will see, the problem actually lies in our blocks not the studs. Some engines have the holes deeper than others, there may be some latitude in stud length that can be addressed.
What the block will take is a good question. But remember that when we start torqueing bolts to this level there is a lot of friction between the stud and the fastener, so the block threads are not going to see an exact mirror of torque application as the wrench. The upside to this will be stud integrity and a much better clamping load on the head.
Doug
What the block will take is a good question. But remember that when we start torqueing bolts to this level there is a lot of friction between the stud and the fastener, so the block threads are not going to see an exact mirror of torque application as the wrench. The upside to this will be stud integrity and a much better clamping load on the head.
Doug
03-23-2006, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
Even with ARP lube? That's stuff's slippery as heck-- a lot more so than grease or motor oil.
03-23-2006, 12:52 PM
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Higher torque is not always needed to keep a head gasket from blowing. If the stud material stretches (lengthwise not twisting) too easily then the head clamping force will be reduced under pressure. A "stronger" stud at the same torque will help resist "floating the head". To brittle of a stud can snap during torqueing. The key is to select the "right" material, and then match the size to the job. The question is what is the right material. Just my $.02 worth.
Paul
Paul
03-23-2006, 01:12 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by paulb
Higher torque is not always needed to keep a head gasket from blowing. If the stud material stretches (lengthwise not twisting) too easily then the head clamping force will be reduced under pressure. A "stronger" stud at the same torque will help resist "floating the head". To brittle of a stud can snap during torqueing. The key is to select the "right" material, and then match the size to the job. The question is what is the right material. Just my $.02 worth.
Paul
Paul