I just bought a new DeeZee toolbox fuel tank combo. it is 100 gal L shaped tank with tool box attached. All diamond plate. I paid $500 I think I got a good deal. ANyway, I was planning on putting a valve in line to turn on/off, and plumb it into the filler neck, but what keeps if from overflowing the main tank if I for get to shut it off. are there valves I could use? I could buy a install kit from northern tool for $70. But it looks like common plumbing parts from Lowes/Home Depot. What does everyone think? What is safest/best/easiest way to run this?

 

I hope someone has an anwser for this because I have much the same question

 

I think the best is to use a 6 port "pollak valve" that you plumb your existing and aux. tank into. With the flip of a switch in the cab you can pull off either your existing tank, or the aux tank. This is what I use and haven't had any problems, just don't get the solenoid valve, get the good motor driven one(uses more than 1 wire to hook up).

Like this one:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000219616

 

That is the one I use. Just don't run either tank completely empty, creates a vapor lock on the valve and it is hard to switch it. My sending unit for my spare tank isn't adjusted right so it is hard to tell how much fuel I have in it and I have run it empty when it was showing 3/8ths of a tank.....

 

I bought two of those 6-port pollack valves from jc whitney for a veggie oil project and find I cant use them since hot veggie oil causes them to fail. I found another mfr that makes metal ones so Ive ordered those instead. Ill probably put these and a holley blue pump I bought up for sale on the DTR classifieds.
Id defintely say to take one of those and switch feed and return from one to the other. You can grab the lines where theyre rubber either in the engine compartment or above the fuel tank. Just make sure to get good quality USCG certified diesel fuel hose so you dont have problems later.

 

Where did you find a full metal one? I'd be interested.

 

I bought a single wire tank selector valve, like on older dual tank chevys.
I have a valve in the bed, that usually stays open. I ran the fuel lines thru the bed like INFEDILS, installed filter, the solenoid then T'ed in to the return line on the filler neck. Hooked up power for valve to toggle and to a hot wire that is only hot when the key is on. That way, if I park the truck, it closes and won't over flow. Looks good, works well. Going to really test it this weekend. trucking to TX, OK, and IA.

 

Frybrid makes metal-bodied fuel valves for veggie oil conversions, but its fine for just diesel. They are 3/8 connectors though so youll need an adapter for the return lines or a stretchy hose.
Mine have been on order for about a month now, I have no idea whats going on there. Maybe just using the pollacks will be ok?

 

Just gravity feed it. Supply into filler neck line, and vent to vent. Works great. Put a valve (manual) in supply off aux.
Andy