Best mods for $1000
08-10-2007 | 02:20 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Bothell, WA
Thanks,
I should give you a little more to run with.
I don't do it for a living any more, but, I'm a certified machinist and capable with a wrench and a few other tools, so I won't be paying for labor.
How 'bout giving me brands $$'s and best order to do the changes in.
expected HP would be way cool too
I should give you a little more to run with.
I don't do it for a living any more, but, I'm a certified machinist and capable with a wrench and a few other tools, so I won't be paying for labor.
How 'bout giving me brands $$'s and best order to do the changes in.
expected HP would be way cool too
08-10-2007 | 10:14 AM
#5
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 0
From: Eastern Shore of Maryland
Yeah, fill out your signature on your truck, alot can be had for Zero dollars just some pump adjustments and tunig.
Guages $300
Air intake-$200ish
Exhaust $50 strait pipe or 4" $300
Grind Plate #100 or #10- 1-2hrs of your time
AFC mods-1-2hr of your time
GSK washer mod 15 Cents, or 3k/ 4k Govener Spring Kit $200ish
Guages $300
Air intake-$200ish
Exhaust $50 strait pipe or 4" $300
Grind Plate #100 or #10- 1-2hrs of your time
AFC mods-1-2hr of your time
GSK washer mod 15 Cents, or 3k/ 4k Govener Spring Kit $200ish
08-10-2007 | 11:03 AM
#7
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: Denham Springs, La.
Stock clutch can only hold a couple mods as a daily driver and in towing conditions it will begin slipping or come apart...I did a bhaf,straight pipe, 3gsk, Laser cut dv's,cut a no. 10 plate and gauges for mine and dyno'd 314hp and 719tq but slipped the clutch right after that
Trending Topics
08-10-2007 | 06:52 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Bothell, WA
Maybe I should start there.
What clutch would you recommend?
I'm new to the diesel world.
What are lazer cut dv's and AFC?
And, are there plans around here someplace for cutting plates, washer gsk mod?
What clutch would you recommend?
I'm new to the diesel world.
What are lazer cut dv's and AFC?
And, are there plans around here someplace for cutting plates, washer gsk mod?
08-10-2007 | 08:06 PM
#9
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: Denham Springs, La.
bombing on a budget requires the right parts at the right prices...As far as clutch goes Try a Valair 13" ofe style clutch...And that will leave you some cash in you piggy bank...By the way Where you from?
08-11-2007 | 12:03 AM
#11
Banned
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 0
From: Place with no quail:(
Hope this helps some-
To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.
Here are some cutaway pics of your IP, really helped me understand how things work. http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182
To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.
Here are some cutaway pics of your IP, really helped me understand how things work. http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182
08-12-2007 | 01:39 AM
#12
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
From: bolton,CT
Stock clutch can only hold a couple mods as a daily driver and in towing conditions it will begin slipping or come apart...I did a bhaf,straight pipe, 3gsk, Laser cut dv's,cut a no. 10 plate and gauges for mine and dyno'd 314hp and 719tq but slipped the clutch right after that
sort of off topic but how much power do laser cut dv's give, cause my dad is has a pretty similar setup + a fully tuned afc and i think injectors on his 95 5spd 2500 and i was wondering what kinda numbers he would put down and now i have a pretty good idea(350-375 with some injectors and over 750tq? sorry if i hijacked the thread