Aux Fuel tank Q's?
#1
Aux Fuel tank Q's?
Not sure if this is the right page for this. If it ain't I'm sorry.
Does the '99 24V use a fuel return line from the pump back to the tank?
What's the best way to plumb in an aux tank? I'm going to put a 120 gallon tank behind the cab.
Should I run the big tank to a pump that just feeds the main?
Should I get a tank switch valve like the one in my ford, and plumb it in that way, and put a switch in the cab? What kind of trouble will I encounter trying to get the sending units and guage working properly?
Should I just ditch the factory tank alltogether?
This truck is a long hauler, so I need the added fuel.
Thanks in advance!!
Does the '99 24V use a fuel return line from the pump back to the tank?
What's the best way to plumb in an aux tank? I'm going to put a 120 gallon tank behind the cab.
Should I run the big tank to a pump that just feeds the main?
Should I get a tank switch valve like the one in my ford, and plumb it in that way, and put a switch in the cab? What kind of trouble will I encounter trying to get the sending units and guage working properly?
Should I just ditch the factory tank alltogether?
This truck is a long hauler, so I need the added fuel.
Thanks in advance!!
#2
Using this valve your fuel draw line, return line, and tank sending signal are all changed from one tank to the other with the flick of one switch mounted in the cab. I used it on my last truck and it worked great.
http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitem...lve?&forward=1
http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitem...lve?&forward=1
#3
Good advice above. For more simplicity, many people tee the aux. tank feed line into the fill tube of the main tank with an electric fuel valve inline. When the main tank reaches empty, they flip the switch in the cab, and it will refill from the aux tank using gravity. This way there's no messing around with extra pumps, sending units and return lines.
#4
I've run a few trucks w/ the aux tanks tee'd into the fill tube with no valve, we figured if you couldn't find a station withing the 300 miles that last 30 gallons would get you, you had issues.
Is there a reason you would want the valve ? Safety maybe for fire control ?
Is there a reason you would want the valve ? Safety maybe for fire control ?
#5
It would work fine without the electric valve, but if somebody was to remove the fuel cap from the main tank filler, you could lose 100 gallons of fuel all over the ground.
#6
My reason for carrying so much fuel is that I'm 17 miles from one of the cheapest diesel stops in the country, $2.30 last time I filled up. Some of the states I run in, fuel is up to $2.75 a gallon. I want to be able to fuel up where it's cheap, and drive right past the more expensive stuff. There's also a little point about having to make fuel purchases match a log book.
#7
I want to be able to switch the tanks, and see the fuel level in each tank, and be able to monitor fuel on board. As a side note, I may just ditch the factory tank alltogether, since a trip through the local junkyard revealed a set of 50 gallon per side saddle tanks that would fit perfectly under my flatbed, and would increase my onboard fuel capacity to 220 gallons.
My reason for carrying so much fuel is that I'm 17 miles from one of the cheapest diesel stops in the country, $2.30 last time I filled up. Some of the states I run in, fuel is up to $2.75 a gallon. I want to be able to fuel up where it's cheap, and drive right past the more expensive stuff. There's also a little point about having to make fuel purchases match a log book.
My reason for carrying so much fuel is that I'm 17 miles from one of the cheapest diesel stops in the country, $2.30 last time I filled up. Some of the states I run in, fuel is up to $2.75 a gallon. I want to be able to fuel up where it's cheap, and drive right past the more expensive stuff. There's also a little point about having to make fuel purchases match a log book.
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