Well almost, you still have to energize it. I made this set-up for a buddy of mine who couldn't spend the dough on a controller, but wanted lock-up control without worrying about forgetting to turn it off. Only costs a $40 or so in parts and is EASY to hook up, even for those electrically challenged.

It uses a two on position spring loaded to center off (SPDT) toggle switch through a series of simple bosch relays avaialble at any parts store. It tee-splices to the lock-up wire just like a stand alone switch, but also ties into the brake pedal to disengage the lock-up if you forget. The relays latch and unlatch according to driver and brake input. One momentary push of the toggle locks it up, where it stays until you press the brake or press the unlock position. A light can also be wired in to tell you when it's locked.

Works sweet and no more stoplight chatters!!

PARTS LIST: (3) Bosch generic 5 terminal relays
(1) single pole double throw (SPDT) mom on - off - mom on toggle switch
little bit of 14 gauge wire and some terminals.

uses signal from existing brake switch, and ignition power from any location suitable...........no high current draw to be concerned with.

Any questions or for a pictorial schematic showing terminals locations on actual relays/switches let me know.

 

That is an awesome idea!


May have to go that route.............thanks

 

excellent post, thanks!

 

How do you keep the relays energized with the momentary switch? Or do you mean a normal SPDT switch? I'm confused as to how the momentary switch would continue to keep the relays energized to lock or unlock the converter.


Is this controlling the Ground side of the TC solonoid or the Power side?

Why is there constant battery power to the "signal" side 85 of the relay? Shouldn't the Constant power be a circut 30?

Couldn't you just put one relay in, with the signal from the brake pedal going to a circut 85, obviously 86 to ground, and using a normally closed relay have the TC wire be poles 30 and 87 with a normal SPDT switch?


Josh

 

"How do you keep the relays energized with the momentary switch?"

mom sw sends (-) to TC solenoid (it is negatively controlled by the PCM), as well as (-) side of TCR. When the TCR enrgizes, its N.O. contacts close and pass (-) through N.C. contacts of the AUR, which loops back to the coil (as well as feeding the same circuit of the TC lockup) of the TCR and keeps it "latched", where it will stay unless it receives a (+) signal via the BR N.O. contacts from either the brake sw, or the "unlock" side of your mom SPDT sw.


"Is this controlling the Ground side of the TC solonoid or the Power side?"

The torque converter lockup solenoid valve is negatively controlled both by the mystery sw, as well as this system. BTW, don't cut the PCM's wire to the solenoid, merely sister on to it. This way, the PCM still retains control if you choose not to use the mystery sw.

"Why is there constant battery power to the "signal" side 85 of the relay? Shouldn't the Constant power be a circut 30?"

85 of which relay? If you mean all three, then reqalize that circuits can be either negatively or positively controlled, using one or the other for a common. In this case, the AUR and TCR relays utilize (+) constantly, and they are switched by (-). Adversely, the BR relay, uses (-) common, and is switched by (+). Additionally, for diagram simplicity, battery (+) is displayed, but it is the installers discretion as to what kind of power is used. The diagram merely shows it as (+) power w/o confusing the diagram with it's origin. I wire mine through an ign (+), as there is next to no current draw here, most any circuit can be used without concern to wire size or fusing capacity.

"Couldn't you just put one relay in, with the signal from the brake pedal going to a circut 85, obviously 86 to ground, and using a normally closed relay have the TC wire be poles 30 and 87 with a normal SPDT switch?"

Sure, but what happens if you still have the switch on (using a on-off sw obviously), and let off the brake as you pull away from a stop?? The converter locks instantly, because you enabled its circuit again. If you make it this simple, why use the relay at all?? Just run a (-) to the common of a on/off switch and run the other terminal stright to the converter lock-up wire?

You have to completely disarm the system by unlatching it's holding relay, otherwise you run the risk of premature lock-up, which is half of what this system takes care of. I bet there is not ONE single owner that has never forgotten to unlock his mystery sw at a light or stop of some kind. There are also other DPDT relays that could be used to simplify the number of relays, but they aren't as easy to get like a good old bosch relay from autozone or napa. And they're a hell of alot more expensive.

I hope I helped, fire away if not. This system works flawlessly, that I promise, and most of the wiring is located right on the relays withpout a bunch of wires heading here and there. I'll post a pictorial of the actual set-up so one can wire it up the simplest way possible.

 

here's a schematic pictorial to keep the wiring simple and short......

As you can see, there are only three wires to hook-up outside the relay cluster, excluding the three wires to the toggle sw that is.

 

Great idea, but wouldn't having the TC unlock with the brake switch sort of play heck with an exhaust brake when you want to stay locked up and are most likely using the foot brakes some also? For many folks an e-brake is the main reason for having a lockup switch.
Might be good to add a switch to override the brake switch for e-brake use or even tie it in to the e-brake switch.

I have a schematic somewhere that shows how to wire things up so a warning buzzer or light comes on when you go below a certain mph in lockup. See if I can find it. Bit more complex than your idea though.

 

Here's the system with a warning light and/or buzzer to prevent lock ups when stopped.

 

I did something similer on my 80 cutlass with a 350 c tranny. I used the cruise control switch and a heater fan relay and used that exsisting brake switch to brake the contact when i come to a stop. I had to rengage it on take off when i got up to speed. It worked great but i aways hit the switch rigth after i let off the brake because the tire barked like crazey when it shift.
Right now i have it hooked to a pressure swith in the govenor port and another swith in the 3 third gear port. I has to be in third gear and over 38 mph to ingauge the lock up. It also is still hooked to the brake switch and a manual switch so i can shut the whole thing off. This is a much more goof proof system Wife can drive.

You chould do the same thing with the dodge. Find a Pressure switch that close at about 40 to 50 psi or so and hook it to the fourth gear pressure port. I know the govenor port is external on the 47re but don't know about 4th gear. I think the dodge has good programing for the tranny and don't need to be messed with.

 

Thanks alot got DIESEL. I more clearly see what you were showing in the diagram. It does appear to be an easy hook-up. The reason I was so questioning, is I will be doing this to Silverram323's truck this weekend.

Josh

 

Forgive my ignorance, but what' the purpose of the mystery switch, and what exactly does it do?

Thanks

 

It keeps the Torque Converter locked up from 2nd gear-4th {shifting locked to lock} if you have the switch "on" when you hit second gear.That IMO is harsh on the stock converter, it's better to flip it getting speed from 3rd to 4th.Coming down the mountain or to a flat land stop light it'll stay locked and give you compression breaking like a manual tranny easing the stress on your brakes in most cases.Do not forget to turn it off, it'll eat through clutches and shafts like a hungry shark and destroy your tranny...and kill your motor once your stopped,{kinda like not pushing in the clutch pedal on a manual}

 

Yep, I've seen guys mess up trannies with this, so be careful with it.

 

One of the problems with lockup switches and e-brakes is that the line prressure strongly depends on the position of the "go" pedal. No "go" - low line pressure. E-Brake means much torque and low line pressure- easy slippage. So I'd suggest that this should not be used on a stock tranny, on an aftermarket unit it must be ok-ed by the manufacturer.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

 

hey guys, just updated the thumbnail. I forgot to draw in the ground source for the relays on the pictorial. It's on the diagram, but not the pictorial, so review it again if you want the corrected version. Thanks Josh for pointing it out.



infidel........working on an add-on for e-brakes. As I don't have one, I didn't factor it in. I will study the pacbrake diagrams for mechanical and electronic engines and post a diagram soon. Thanks for the input.

TireHauler wrote:

It keeps the Torque Converter locked up from 2nd gear-4th {shifting locked to lock} if you have the switch "on" when you hit second gear.That IMO is harsh on the stock converter, it's better to flip it getting speed from 3rd to 4th.Coming down the mountain or to a flat land stop light it'll stay locked and give you compression breaking like a manual tranny easing the stress on your brakes in most cases.Do not forget to turn it off, it'll eat through clutches and shafts like a hungry shark and destroy your tranny...and kill your motor once your stopped,{kinda like not pushing in the clutch pedal on a manual}

With a modified valve body it will also lock up in first. Yes it can be hard on a stock converter clutch if your engine is modified and it is used under full power, or full braking. But then again, if your modified, you'd better have an updated TC anyway, or the converter is gonna slip to begin with and locking it up early won't hurt nor harm it anymore than is already happening. On a stock output engine, I don't believe it is any harder on the TC than it's normal lock-up at 30 (D), or 45(OD). Line pressures are up due to TPS position when under heavy throttle as well. I used this set-up on a stock TC and trans for quite a while before mods and never noticed any negative effects. But like all things, abuse can break things so use your common sense.

With this set-up, it is impossible to forget to unlock it, so stoplight chatter won't happen. As a sidenote however.........on a STOCK valve body, the transmission will not downshift while TC is locked. Therefor, upon deceleration it will lug the engine if you don't disarm the switch or use the brakes when you slow down too much. This is usually not a problem because most drivers are on the brakes, which unlocks the converter, way before ground speed is low enough to cause chatter.