PourinDiesel

With ARP's and ARP lube torque to at least 120ft lbs.

ratsun

Actually the way I understand it the twins should help you with the HG as the TIP (turbine inlet pressure) should be lower with good set-up over a single one, unless its so large its a ugly pig to drive on the street.

dodgediesel

Ratsun, what twin set-up is in your pictures. Sure looks nice. How did it spool vs. stock hx-35???

ratsun

Its the PDR towing twins, with the stock charger on the top
I honestly didnt notice a difference (untill the 3B lites ) If its slower its pretty marginal

dodgediesel

NICE!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm still not sure if this head gasket is going to hold up after being torqued to 130 foot pounds. Has anyone seen this before? If so, do they think I'll be alright now and later with BD Twins?????

kipo

I've seen it before. It happened to me but I didn't bring it up to temp and then retorque. I even torqued them the first time to about 118 lbs. with the lube supplied and even went and bought more just to grease them up real good. I ran it for about two days and blew a .20 over marine. That's not to mention while torquing the first time I "BROKE" one of the studs where it screws into the block. I did it all by the book; decked the head, bought the tap, cleaned them out, lubed it up, backed it off a quarter turn, bla, bla, bla. Doug at PDW was awesome and had one sent over the next day. I had to pay the overnight fee though. THEN, after doing it all over again, I "BROKE" the threads off another one!!!! The threads that the cap ride on simply rolled over and you couldn't tighten it anymore. Not wanting to give ARP another dime, I stuck a stock bolt in, tightened it to 120 lbs. and fired that ***** up.
Been holding ever since. My next set will be new stock bolts tightened to 130 lbs. I have pics on computer now and will submit when i have time.

Mike Holmen

Here what I did on my studs. I torqued the head up, to 96 ft*lbs. I left the motor still cold over night re-torqued the head to 96 ft*lbs. Waited a couple more hours and then re-torqued again. Warmed the motor up and then re-torque the head. You should put a mark on the stud to see if its moving when your torquing the head up. You have to re-set your lash on your valves as well after each time you torque the head. If you studs are still moving, crank on them until they stop. You head re-torque should be done several times before getting on the throttle and cranking big boost numbers. Was the head clean and the block surface clean? Is your head and block straight and true? 96 ft*lbs with the goop is the right number. I've retorque my head now to 125 ft*lbs. I hate to break a stud or start pulling out threads on the block. If your worried about your head gasket run a copper gasket. I'm betting that your mechanic torqued the head in the wrong sequence or missed a bolt. I've ran up to 70psi with no leaks yet. I had the head surface (it was new) and checked the block with a straight edge. Clean both surface. This is the most important step. They have to both clean and smooth. Yes o-rings help, but if you do everything right you don't need them.