Does any one here on DTR have this? I have a crack in my stock manifold. I would like to have the good and bad opinion on it if you have one.

 

IF the stock manifold is hooched you wont go wrong by buying a three piece manifold. They have advantages over the stock manifold in they will allow for more expansion with less stress on the mounting studs, should have better flow, and if ever develop more cracks only replace one piece. these are standard now on most of the big diesel engines. PK

 

It s one of my best for the money purchases, they even have a boss so drill your pyro in the correct spot. Use the rear on thats the hottest.<br>Are you getting the coated or raw?<br>If you get the Raw, Eastwood makes Diamond clear coating(heat version) so will stay nice for a long time.<br> Danny

 

I've been trying to get an ATS manifold since before Thanksgiving :'( According to PDR they are on backorder due to the raw castings sent to ATS for final machining are not meeting ATS specifications or requirements.

 

I have an ATS exhaust manafold and love it. Look around someone may have one in stock.

 

How much do they run as in $$$. Will my turbo spool up any quicker. I was looking at a IH tractor and it had a three piece manifold. I'm going to call my local dealer and see what the measurements are and if I can get one to fit my ctd. Just for the heck of it.<br>DM01

 

Mr. 45:<br><br>I have the ATS three-piece manifold on my 96' Dodge<br>CTD. I like it very much! The manifold is designed much<br>better than the stock ones and on my truck I noticed<br>a decrease in EGT temperatures after installing it. I<br>also feel that the &quot;throttle response&quot; on the bottom<br>end was better. When you lay the ATS and the stock<br>manifold side-by-side it is very obvious that the ATS<br>will &quot;flow&quot; the exhaust gases much better! As I recall,<br>mine cost around $425.00, although they may be<br>cheaper now.<br><br>-------<br>John_P

 

ATS is a nice piece of gear, get it then later when you want a set of Twins you can flip the center section for the required clearence.<br><br>Jim

 

I luv my ATS manifold. As John said I saw alittle lower EGTs and it does spool up the turbo alot better. I spent 4 hours porting and polishing mine before it went on. <br><br>On the 12 valves the OE manifold doesn't crack it shrinks. To get the front two bolts out I had to have all ot the others out so the manifold would move back and forth.

 

[quote author=Mr. 45 link=board=7;threadid=8947;start=0#85991 date=1041212651]
Does any one here on DTR have this? I have a crack in my stock manifold. I would like to have the good and bad opinion on it if you have one.
[/quote]

I have a crack on my stock manifold, also. It looks like a hairline crack. I'm attaching a couple of pics.

CR

 

And another. I know this should be replaced, but funds are short at this time. What problems is this crack causing? What if I go a while without replacing manifold? Is this something that could be temporarily repaired with JB-Weld?<br><br>CR

 

Mr.45 <br>As stated before the ATS 3 piece is a quality unit.<br>If you buy it, here are some tips for installation.<br><br>I would match the ATS manifold bolt holes to the existing exhaust manifold, when these units are shipped as one piece they are stuck together but not aligned perfectly, so as I learned during installation you might line it up by wacking the ATS manifold with a mallet or other heavy implement to get the 3 pieces to line up properly to make installation to the head alot easier.<br><br>Remember the Head is cast material and you can easily strip the threads, so making sure these bolts thread up with no resistance is a must.<br>Another tip is to cut the heads off the existing manifold bolts after they are removed to use as studs to hang this heavy unit onto the engine, then of course secure with the allen head bolts provided.<br><br>--Justin<br>

 

CR1998- I don't know JB-Weld, but if it's some synthetic material I strongly doubt that it is a good idea to use it on the exhaust. (temperature)<br><br>I'd suggest to drill a small hole on the end of the crack to stop it from running on. You'd need to do this on both sides of the crack. Wouldn't be a permanent solution, would let some exhaust flw under the hood ( not too much since the holes would be about 0,7-1,00 mm) <br><br>Just my 2c<br><br>AlpineRAM

 

You *might* be able to get away with brazing it. It will last for a little while, but that crack probably isn't bad enough to bother with brazing. As far as welding, you have to find someone who has the equipment and knowledge to take it on. The manifold is cast iron and must be heated to about 1300 degrees before any welding starts, and then I believe Nickel rod must be used. <br><br>My advice, hit Ebay.com on this. I searched on &quot;Cummins Exhaust&quot; and found 1 stock manifold and 2 ATS manifolds. Take whatever cash you have and bid up to that amount on the stocker and maybe you'lll get it. Wait until the last 5 minutes of the auction, if possible, to bid. Don't forget the shipping costs.<br><br>Chris

 

Mine cracked over a year ago. It was replaced free under warranty. The dealer that replaced it said it is part of the engine, and thus covered by the factory 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. <br><br>The dealer I bought the truck from wouldn't even replace a manifold bolt that had backed out; said it would have to go on the extended warranty with $50 deductable, so I bought the $3 bolt and put it in myself.<br>