bgilbert

Bump, pics are now approved for viewing pleasure .
Thats how mine sit as well. I considered removing the washer, but thought I'd grind first.

rharveysr

Ran studs down into block on pedestal and then put washer and nut into place. I seen that I needed 2 threads off the length of stud..so I removed it and used a 4" cut off wheel to remove the 2 threads. Then I used a bench grinder and cleaned up the first thread...
Also needed to use a dremel and remove 2 of the ribs on the inside of the valve cover. Once that was done...I give the covers a good hot soap bath to remove metal dust...and then installed new gaskets. Installed the studs,washers,nuts and torqued them to instructions..Installed valve covers and torqued to spec's.

Rick

Radcam

I have a '98 12v, and I had to grind the studs to clear the valve covers. I had the head off tapped all of the holes until the tap bottomed out, and yes I used a bottoming tap. From what I have gathered it is more common on the later 12v blocks that the machining of the head bolt holes is not always as deep as some of the earlier blocks, I don't know if it is true or not but I do know that I had to grind my studs to clear the valve covers. I ground the bottom of the stud to maintain the hex in the top, as was stated before don't let the stud get hot when you are grinding go slow use plenty off coolant and a good die to clean the threads check the depth of the stud often and you should be good to go.

Cam