APPS voltage adjustment and LSD clutch restack....if you are on the fence...DO IT!
02-12-2007, 08:15 AM
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APPS voltage adjustment and LSD clutch restack....if you are on the fence...DO IT!
I've been lazy and Big Blue and Crobtx has told me how much this helped him out when he did it (The APPS Adjustment). I don’t get very excited about things like this because, from my experience, they never give what all the hype says it will. BUT i did mine yesterday and noticed a BIG difference on how my truck ran! Tons more snappy off the line and pulls harder into the upper RPM's! (Almost like a mini Smarty if you will). I also notice a touch more smoke. Its strange...but it works! The drive into work this morn was fun!
My voltage needed to be set at .535 V. I couldn’t tell you what it was before....because when i got those torx bolts loose....i soo excited i didn’t strip them i move the APPS!
Very simple procedure.
I also restacked my LSD clutches as well…but I have not noticed anything just yet on them. Doesn’t chatter around corners like I have heard…but I have only put about 15 miles on it soo far…and am running some very good oil I got from Rjohnson in the rear….ill report back when i notice something…..we are due for some good snow tom….might see something then…...BUT overall, very simple to do.......
My voltage needed to be set at .535 V. I couldn’t tell you what it was before....because when i got those torx bolts loose....i soo excited i didn’t strip them i move the APPS!
Very simple procedure. I also restacked my LSD clutches as well…but I have not noticed anything just yet on them. Doesn’t chatter around corners like I have heard…but I have only put about 15 miles on it soo far…and am running some very good oil I got from Rjohnson in the rear….ill report back when i notice something…..we are due for some good snow tom….might see something then…...BUT overall, very simple to do.......
02-12-2007, 09:37 AM
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02-12-2007, 10:07 AM
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02-12-2007, 10:11 AM
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Now, we need get some pics to go with it.
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02-12-2007, 02:30 PM
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02-12-2007, 03:44 PM
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I don't know if the 95's (Power-Lok) are the same.... but in the 98.5's through 02's (Track-Lok), Dodge has the Dana clutches & steel plates rearranged to limit the street effects of the LSD. They only have 2 clutches in use, with the rest stacked steel on steel and clutch on clutch. They did this to avoid complaints of chattering and tire chirping while making slow, sharp turns.
I've only read about it...so Dan can fill in the details... but I know it's a 2-3 hr job involving pulling the axles and removing enough to get to the plates/clutches through the pumpkin... then restacking them clutch-steel-clutch-steel etc. and reinstalling everything. Not additional parts needed!
Reports are that it makes a substantial difference and well worth doing!
I must confess I've tested mine, with one wheel on wet grass (and once on ice) and I still have good LSD caracteristics... and have had no problems at the track.... but full Dana LSD would still be nice.
RJ
I've only read about it...so Dan can fill in the details... but I know it's a 2-3 hr job involving pulling the axles and removing enough to get to the plates/clutches through the pumpkin... then restacking them clutch-steel-clutch-steel etc. and reinstalling everything. Not additional parts needed!
Reports are that it makes a substantial difference and well worth doing!
I must confess I've tested mine, with one wheel on wet grass (and once on ice) and I still have good LSD caracteristics... and have had no problems at the track.... but full Dana LSD would still be nice.
RJ
02-12-2007, 04:44 PM
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Its not hard by any means. Heck....pulling the rear cover and your a 1/4 the way there! haha...
You need to pull the axle shafts out about 4-6" so you can take the carrier out. Mark the 2 main bearing end caps so you can install them the same way they came out. They are side specific. I used a punch to mark them. Brake clean and paint will work. Once you take the bearing caps off...the carrier will almost fall out....(80+ LBS....and i might be low on that!) BUT the rear sway bar will catch it if it rolls out. Very nice really. (Main bearing Races will fall off....make a note to catch them and they are side specific and also note any shims on the landings where the bearing races installed in the axle housing. They shouldn’t move, mine didn’t. But keep an eye out for any that may fall out.) Put on bench and there is (I think) 8, 9/16" bolts holding the left and right sections together. (The left section has the ring gear bolted to it) Mark case to reinstall the same when going back together. Remove these bolts in a cris cross pattern. Remove case and you should see the right side gear that rides on the spider gears. ON the gear there will be the clutch pack and the gear has a splined shaft. Im not sure which plate is which but one set engages the case with tabs and the other engages the side gear on splined shaft. There is an inverted washer of sorts under the clutch pack. This needs to be installed the same way. Note how its installed and remove the side gear with the clutch pack installed. You should now see the 4 spiders with a cross shaft. Mark this shaft in relation to the housing it is sitting in. Remove the spider gears. Note: gears will fall off cross shaft if not careful. They are held in by the case. Once removed you need to tilt up the housing with the ring gear vertical This will allow you to remove the left gear and clutch pack out of the left housing. Now pull the clutch and plates and arrange them in alternating order. There is one extra IIRC. This is fine. NOTE the washer position. This is what loads the clutch. Install in gear with the spline shaft and install in the housing while standing up vertical. Once installed, place flat on table and reinstall the spiders. Make sure all teeth engage the side gear correctly. Should be obvious. Once correct, install the right side gear with the splined shaft and clutch pack. Remove clutches and rearrange in alternating order like the other side. Note position of the washer! This is the tricky part. install the right side housing and align the tabs so the housing will seat all the way. Not hard...just make sure you got it right! Tighten up bolts (Don’t have torque specs off hand....but should be in the service manual). Reinstall bearing races on the main carrier bearings and (this is where you have to rub your stomach and pat your head at the same time....2 people is a plus here....we had a lift and it was still not easy. Could use a small amt of grease to hold the races.) reinstall in the housing. NOTE: Be careful not to knock the shims out of place that are installed on one (well on mine they were) of the bearings. I didn’t do this part since my side i was responsible for didn’t have any shims. Keith had that job! (BUT we tightened up my back lash a touch so it was tighter) BUT didn’t look hard...just slide bearing on top of shims is the plan. Reinstall the caps you marked getting them to the correct side and tighten up to specs (Again in book). Then reinstall axle shafts, and pan. Fill with oil and your golden......
Seriously, i rate this Job a 4 out of 10. 6 if you have a bad back and dont have access to a lift!
ALSO might i suggest Synergyn's gear Oil.....man that is some great stuff.....sticky/stringy like.....way better than any gear oil i have ever worked with....dont smell foul as much as well! Definite plus! haha....
Dont worry Rowland...ill do yours when i come back into town....i can just see you reading this with your manual and head in your hands asking God WHY?????????
You need to pull the axle shafts out about 4-6" so you can take the carrier out. Mark the 2 main bearing end caps so you can install them the same way they came out. They are side specific. I used a punch to mark them. Brake clean and paint will work. Once you take the bearing caps off...the carrier will almost fall out....(80+ LBS....and i might be low on that!) BUT the rear sway bar will catch it if it rolls out. Very nice really. (Main bearing Races will fall off....make a note to catch them and they are side specific and also note any shims on the landings where the bearing races installed in the axle housing. They shouldn’t move, mine didn’t. But keep an eye out for any that may fall out.) Put on bench and there is (I think) 8, 9/16" bolts holding the left and right sections together. (The left section has the ring gear bolted to it) Mark case to reinstall the same when going back together. Remove these bolts in a cris cross pattern. Remove case and you should see the right side gear that rides on the spider gears. ON the gear there will be the clutch pack and the gear has a splined shaft. Im not sure which plate is which but one set engages the case with tabs and the other engages the side gear on splined shaft. There is an inverted washer of sorts under the clutch pack. This needs to be installed the same way. Note how its installed and remove the side gear with the clutch pack installed. You should now see the 4 spiders with a cross shaft. Mark this shaft in relation to the housing it is sitting in. Remove the spider gears. Note: gears will fall off cross shaft if not careful. They are held in by the case. Once removed you need to tilt up the housing with the ring gear vertical This will allow you to remove the left gear and clutch pack out of the left housing. Now pull the clutch and plates and arrange them in alternating order. There is one extra IIRC. This is fine. NOTE the washer position. This is what loads the clutch. Install in gear with the spline shaft and install in the housing while standing up vertical. Once installed, place flat on table and reinstall the spiders. Make sure all teeth engage the side gear correctly. Should be obvious. Once correct, install the right side gear with the splined shaft and clutch pack. Remove clutches and rearrange in alternating order like the other side. Note position of the washer! This is the tricky part. install the right side housing and align the tabs so the housing will seat all the way. Not hard...just make sure you got it right! Tighten up bolts (Don’t have torque specs off hand....but should be in the service manual). Reinstall bearing races on the main carrier bearings and (this is where you have to rub your stomach and pat your head at the same time....2 people is a plus here....we had a lift and it was still not easy. Could use a small amt of grease to hold the races.) reinstall in the housing. NOTE: Be careful not to knock the shims out of place that are installed on one (well on mine they were) of the bearings. I didn’t do this part since my side i was responsible for didn’t have any shims. Keith had that job! (BUT we tightened up my back lash a touch so it was tighter) BUT didn’t look hard...just slide bearing on top of shims is the plan. Reinstall the caps you marked getting them to the correct side and tighten up to specs (Again in book). Then reinstall axle shafts, and pan. Fill with oil and your golden......
Seriously, i rate this Job a 4 out of 10. 6 if you have a bad back and dont have access to a lift!
ALSO might i suggest Synergyn's gear Oil.....man that is some great stuff.....sticky/stringy like.....way better than any gear oil i have ever worked with....dont smell foul as much as well! Definite plus! haha....
Dont worry Rowland...ill do yours when i come back into town....i can just see you reading this with your manual and head in your hands asking God WHY?????????
02-12-2007, 05:09 PM
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Okay, I knew restacking was just a rearrangement but I was thinking you rebuilt it too while it was out. I was wondering how much it was because I think with all these miles the clutches might be a little worn. I probably won't have the time to mess with it any time soon anyways....
02-12-2007, 05:51 PM
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Okay, I knew restacking was just a rearrangement but I was thinking you rebuilt it too while it was out. I was wondering how much it was because I think with all these miles the clutches might be a little worn. I probably won't have the time to mess with it any time soon anyways....
Tyler tells stories about your driving style......i can tell you that burn outs with thoes meats will be tons easier with a locker! hahaha.....
02-12-2007, 06:17 PM
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Yeah I know I know.. I was just trying to go the low cost way, college blows. When I finally get money up to do anything about it I will probably get an E-locker. My plan is to go open diff E-locker in the front and the Clutch style LSD E-locker in the back. As for the burnouts....I might have to do a few at Buda 
. It does fine doing anything straight line but once you start to turn it just lets go. Oh well...I'll just put it on the list.
. It does fine doing anything straight line but once you start to turn it just lets go. Oh well...I'll just put it on the list.