Anyone build/do their own trackbar conversion?
#17
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Does the trac bar have to move at either end at all? Because I think it would just be easier and more economical to weld it to the frame, still have it adjustable, but weld both ends, or does one end have to pivot still?
Also what about the pitman arm, I have heard that if you making your own Trac bar you might as well make your own pitman arm too.
Also is that Johnny Joint you are talking about , is it called the Rubicon Express Joint from the website you sent me?
Thanks
-Jared
Also what about the pitman arm, I have heard that if you making your own Trac bar you might as well make your own pitman arm too.
Also is that Johnny Joint you are talking about , is it called the Rubicon Express Joint from the website you sent me?
Thanks
-Jared
#18
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Originally posted by ASTAR
I'm leaning torward making a bolt on bracket just cause I don't really want to weld to the frame on this truck.
I'm leaning torward making a bolt on bracket just cause I don't really want to weld to the frame on this truck.
Plenty of reading.
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Originally posted by DRM
I haven't measured, but I would think 1.25" od and either solid rod or .5" wall would be more than heavy enough for use as a track bar.
I would soource tube to re-use the stock lower bushing setup, then drill and tap the upper end for an adjustable threaded section that would be welded to either another stock rubber bushing, or I am leaning towards using a johnny joint rebuildable joint up top (they are about $35 at the local off road fab shop).
I haven't measured, but I would think 1.25" od and either solid rod or .5" wall would be more than heavy enough for use as a track bar.
I would soource tube to re-use the stock lower bushing setup, then drill and tap the upper end for an adjustable threaded section that would be welded to either another stock rubber bushing, or I am leaning towards using a johnny joint rebuildable joint up top (they are about $35 at the local off road fab shop).
If you're going to run a straight bar, make sure you mock it up in place and cycle the suspension. You might have to shift the frame mount forward so the bar clears the diff cover. Then forget any fantasies you had about running a Mag-Hytec front diff cover, because it won't clear without bends in the track bar.
#20
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Well before I found out about all this trac bar stuff, I purchased a stock bar, and it has lifetime warrenty, my dad has the same thing on his 96 and he just replaces it every six months. When I get mine replaced with a brand new one, can I use the stock trac bar modified so It will be as tight as a Thurenfab? Mabye welding one end and doing something with the other?
Thanks.
-Jared
Thanks.
-Jared
#22
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Originally posted by diesel_kid
Also is that Johnny Joint you are talking about , is it called the Rubicon Express Joint from the website you sent me?
Thanks
-Jared
Also is that Johnny Joint you are talking about , is it called the Rubicon Express Joint from the website you sent me?
Thanks
-Jared
#23
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At this point, here is my plan:
I am ordering the smaller 2" Rubicon Express joint to be the new upper joint.
I will be re-using the stock track bar body and welding/modifying it as necessary.
I will be re-using the stock lower bushing assembly, but likely cutting it off, adding a threaded section and tapping as necessary to make it adjustable on that end.
I will be replacing the stock lower rubber bushing with aftermarket polyurethane ones.
I will be fabbing a weld-on bracket for the upper mount.
Hows that sound?
I am ordering the smaller 2" Rubicon Express joint to be the new upper joint.
I will be re-using the stock track bar body and welding/modifying it as necessary.
I will be re-using the stock lower bushing assembly, but likely cutting it off, adding a threaded section and tapping as necessary to make it adjustable on that end.
I will be replacing the stock lower rubber bushing with aftermarket polyurethane ones.
I will be fabbing a weld-on bracket for the upper mount.
Hows that sound?
#24
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Great minds think alike, don't they???lol I have been losing sleep for months over thinking about doing this myself! I was gonna get a heim end from tractor supply for mine and also fab up a piece to weld to the frame, was also gonna make mine a touch longer or adjustable, to compensate for my homeade front spacers I just finished! I also lifed the rear 2 inches myself and am building a set of traction bars for rear to go along with my airride I have under cunstruction right know also! I am a cheap $$$ when it comes to buying these things, If something cost $200 I probebly would spend $190 and make it myself! but I am 110% sure it will hold then too!
#25
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The biggest problem I see is the tight quarters up at the top joint area. Not a lot of room for big brackets, big joints, or anything else since the pitman arm and differential are *right* there. That is the main reason for the smaller 2" joint, as I think I can make it fit.
The bend at the top of the bar make me think to put the adjustment down at the bottom instead. A little more exposed to the elements, but should not matter much.
I am pretty confident I can do the whole project for $50 or so to cover parts.
The bend at the top of the bar make me think to put the adjustment down at the bottom instead. A little more exposed to the elements, but should not matter much.
I am pretty confident I can do the whole project for $50 or so to cover parts.
#26
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Well, I came across this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true
I have an email to the guy right now asking if both ends are off-the-shelf auto parts store stuff. if so, then that fixes the issue of non-replacable parts, and although not a cheap as building something myself, is a reasonable option.
Thoughts?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true
I have an email to the guy right now asking if both ends are off-the-shelf auto parts store stuff. if so, then that fixes the issue of non-replacable parts, and although not a cheap as building something myself, is a reasonable option.
Thoughts?
#27
I was wondering when you`all were going to bring up the Lukes Link!! I put one on mine about a month ago so far so good. I guess I need to put some miles on it to see how long it last,but it is good and tight now.
#28
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Originally posted by DRM
Well, I came across this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true
I have an email to the guy right now asking if both ends are off-the-shelf auto parts store stuff. if so, then that fixes the issue of non-replacable parts, and although not a cheap as building something myself, is a reasonable option.
Thoughts?
Well, I came across this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true
I have an email to the guy right now asking if both ends are off-the-shelf auto parts store stuff. if so, then that fixes the issue of non-replacable parts, and although not a cheap as building something myself, is a reasonable option.
Thoughts?
I think you'd be better off with your first idea, using the Rubicon/Johnny/whatever joint. At least you can tighten up the slack until it's wore out, then you can rebuild it.
#29
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Originally posted by Cowhand
Hmm.....price is reasonable, but it still uses a ball joint on the frame end. This is the inherent problem with the factory bar. While the joint is replaceable, you'd still end up changing it frequently.
I think you'd be better off with your first idea, using the Rubicon/Johnny/whatever joint. At least you can tighten up the slack until it's wore out, then you can rebuild it.
Hmm.....price is reasonable, but it still uses a ball joint on the frame end. This is the inherent problem with the factory bar. While the joint is replaceable, you'd still end up changing it frequently.
I think you'd be better off with your first idea, using the Rubicon/Johnny/whatever joint. At least you can tighten up the slack until it's wore out, then you can rebuild it.
Diesel Kid- The bar has got to have pivot points. As the suspension cycles up and down, it would rip apart or rip the bar off the frame if you welded it. Somethings gotta provide movement.
#30
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Originally posted by ASTAR
I agree. The only thing I don't like about the small RE joint is the bolt size for it. I would probably look at hogging it out a little to get a bigger bolt throught it. Other than that I think your plan is mint. Oh, and have you already found a poly bushing to replace the stock rubber at the lower?
I agree. The only thing I don't like about the small RE joint is the bolt size for it. I would probably look at hogging it out a little to get a bigger bolt throught it. Other than that I think your plan is mint. Oh, and have you already found a poly bushing to replace the stock rubber at the lower?