Rattlerattle

I have been thinking of doing the same. Want to figure out a lift first before starting on the front. Also have ideas for ladder bars in the rear.

diesel_kid

Does the trac bar have to move at either end at all? Because I think it would just be easier and more economical to weld it to the frame, still have it adjustable, but weld both ends, or does one end have to pivot still?
Also what about the pitman arm, I have heard that if you making your own Trac bar you might as well make your own pitman arm too.
Also is that Johnny Joint you are talking about , is it called the Rubicon Express Joint from the website you sent me?
Thanks

-Jared

Cowhand

If you don't weld it, it's gonna move. Expect the Death Wobble to come visit you. If you don't wanna take my word for it, do a search on track bars at http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/....php?forum=11.

Plenty of reading.

Cowhand

1.50 OD .250 wall DOM should work fine. Definitely ditch the lower bushing setup, the factory rubber in the bushing is way too soft. Go with a nylon/poly hybrid or delrin bushing.

If you're going to run a straight bar, make sure you mock it up in place and cycle the suspension. You might have to shift the frame mount forward so the bar clears the diff cover. Then forget any fantasies you had about running a Mag-Hytec front diff cover, because it won't clear without bends in the track bar.

diesel_kid

Well before I found out about all this trac bar stuff, I purchased a stock bar, and it has lifetime warrenty, my dad has the same thing on his 96 and he just replaces it every six months. When I get mine replaced with a brand new one, can I use the stock trac bar modified so It will be as tight as a Thurenfab? Mabye welding one end and doing something with the other?
Thanks.

-Jared

BigBlue

Yall got any sites for a better track bar bushing? Mine's looking pretty worn.

DRM

Correct - manufactured by several different companies, each have slightly different names for pretty much the same product.

DRM

At this point, here is my plan:

I am ordering the smaller 2" Rubicon Express joint to be the new upper joint.
I will be re-using the stock track bar body and welding/modifying it as necessary.
I will be re-using the stock lower bushing assembly, but likely cutting it off, adding a threaded section and tapping as necessary to make it adjustable on that end.
I will be replacing the stock lower rubber bushing with aftermarket polyurethane ones.
I will be fabbing a weld-on bracket for the upper mount.

Hows that sound?

doodah

Great minds think alike, don't they???lol I have been losing sleep for months over thinking about doing this myself! I was gonna get a heim end from tractor supply for mine and also fab up a piece to weld to the frame, was also gonna make mine a touch longer or adjustable, to compensate for my homeade front spacers I just finished! I also lifed the rear 2 inches myself and am building a set of traction bars for rear to go along with my airride I have under cunstruction right know also! I am a cheap $$$ when it comes to buying these things, If something cost $200 I probebly would spend $190 and make it myself! but I am 110% sure it will hold then too!

DRM

The biggest problem I see is the tight quarters up at the top joint area. Not a lot of room for big brackets, big joints, or anything else since the pitman arm and differential are *right* there. That is the main reason for the smaller 2" joint, as I think I can make it fit.

The bend at the top of the bar make me think to put the adjustment down at the bottom instead. A little more exposed to the elements, but should not matter much.

I am pretty confident I can do the whole project for $50 or so to cover parts.

DRM

Well, I came across this on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

I have an email to the guy right now asking if both ends are off-the-shelf auto parts store stuff. if so, then that fixes the issue of non-replacable parts, and although not a cheap as building something myself, is a reasonable option.

Thoughts?

Mikedeere

I was wondering when you`all were going to bring up the Lukes Link!! I put one on mine about a month ago so far so good. I guess I need to put some miles on it to see how long it last,but it is good and tight now.

Cowhand

Hmm.....price is reasonable, but it still uses a ball joint on the frame end. This is the inherent problem with the factory bar. While the joint is replaceable, you'd still end up changing it frequently.

I think you'd be better off with your first idea, using the Rubicon/Johnny/whatever joint. At least you can tighten up the slack until it's wore out, then you can rebuild it.

ASTAR

I agree. The only thing I don't like about the small RE joint is the bolt size for it. I would probably look at hogging it out a little to get a bigger bolt throught it. Other than that I think your plan is mint. Oh, and have you already found a poly bushing to replace the stock rubber at the lower?

Diesel Kid- The bar has got to have pivot points. As the suspension cycles up and down, it would rip apart or rip the bar off the frame if you welded it. Somethings gotta provide movement.

DRM

www.suspension.com says they carry replacemenent urethane bushings for the lower joint. I have used them before, fast service and great selection.