You speak

of those 450 horse ATS injectors? Myself and many others have been waitin for dyno results from those for a while.. please speak when u get them in... The KDP is cake, i used a TST repair kit.. here is a writeup..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...repair+TST+kit

A GSK for your mechanic friend or for anyone aint that bad, its tedious, and rather tricky, but its only cause the work positions are kinda weird i guess.. Go thru the side of the pump best advise i can give you, and if you plan on revving your engine over 3K constantly get the retainers and holders from haisely machine for further insurance as well as the 60 lb valve springs.

You were reading that TST plate guide, no one goes by that anymore so to say, its a good start but with the proper mods you can run even a zero plate on your truck, now what is a zero plate? Well here is a newbie tutorial i wrote some time back.. hope it helps you, scroll down and look for the long post with my name on it...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=78573

Thanks!


Oh yeah PS.. youll love the GSK!
Rick

 

Looking at the diagram again.



Looking at the second point up from the bottom on a 10, it would be extremely rare unless you were pushing over 4000 rpm for the gov arm to travel beyond that point.
Look at the stock plate now, the point where it steps off to the left is where it defuels (falls on it's face) at around 2200 rpm.
This gives an example of how much of the plate is really used.
Notice that the bottom of the curved part of a 10 is almost the same depth as a 0 or 100. Enough so you can be off with your grinding and be able to adjust by sliding. Room for slop when grinding.

As far as losing power with a plate full forward-- this is caused by the gov arm using less of the plate the further it is slid forward as you get closer to the pivot point of the gov arm.
Look at the stock plate's furthest point to the right and realize you want to be sure to get beyond this point, max power is the the furthest the gov arm can go to the left. Plate forward and a gov arm not adjusted and it's likely you won't get beyond the the nub.

The effect of sliding plates is evident in in hundredths of an inch, a 0 or 100 is a very radical change.

I like the 10 best for it's smoothness, most of the other plates have steps you can feel in the power band.

 

I assume the 0 and 100 ar the same for smoothness?

Chris

 

To a point. You find out real fast how sensitive your peddle is to your foot.
I tried a 100 for a while, just a little blip on the pedal would shoot my egts up to 1400.

 

I think the 100 is holding me back right now...OR I need to adjust the governor arm differently! Here is my dyno graph...looks like the power is following the ramp pretty close!

Do you think a "0" would bring in the power earlier...or was my laggy B1 taking too long to light, causing peak torque and power at the same time??




Thanks Guys, I'm trying to fine tune this thing now
Chris

 

i bet your lag is killing you on a dyno jet. if you can get the fuel in quicker, as in a zero plate and a looser afc spring i bet your #s will jump.

 

I had Originaly bought the 370's but when My friend talked to Southwest Diesel they said that they would starve my pump of fuel because of the delivery set up They sold me the 450's for $75.00 more and said these were "nicer" on my pump? I don't really know, I'm a Drywaller!

Would you do a GSK 1st or the Plate. I'm about 6 months away from ATS exhaust and Intake Manifolds, 14cm Turbo housing and Mega Downpipe (for breathing purposes) and I am concerned about the head while putting all this HP on through it though?

I still don't know which plate I would be happiest with. I've found a #10, #8, & #6 for $75.00.....liked the price! Don't think I'd like a #8 (if I'm understanding the charts right) The #10, #6 and #5 are what I am leaning towards. My nephew has a '94 Manual with a '2005 $3000.00 pump on it (Don't know which plate, but assuming a #10) and I can't have him beating me....he's 10 years younger then I am ! I do tow a lot though and I don't necessarly want to "Watch Myself" @ all time's as far as EGT's are concerned. I do watch the gauges when pulling hills but I don't want to go 1400 deg's instantly. I want some more *****, but I don't want to hurt anything in the process so some guidence for the next step from some of you experienced BOMBERS is all appreciated!

Thanks guys!
Cory

 

I would skip all this "fancy" stuff if you are looking for more airflow and just buy a biggrer and better turbo. Your results will be better at less cost.

The only thing to include would be the ATS exhaut manifold if you are experiencing some shrinking on your existing manifold.

If you are referring to the guy on eBay. Stay away from them they are crap.

 

Thanks, I was just over in another thread and they were discussing the bigger turbo vs. the downpipe and I agreed with the guy....with the money for the down pipe and housing I'm 1/2 way to a bigger/better Turbo!

The plates were local...I stay away from ebay! I'm getting the ATS exhaust & intake in 6 to 7 months! That's when she's all paid for and then all the BOMBS are dropping! Thanks again for u'r $.02, you start reading around in this site and see all the s@$t to buy and what everybody else has and it get's a little OC!


Cory

 

Without more air it's likely you'll just get more smoke at lower rpms with a 0.

 

So with twins, it should bring the power on whenever I ask for it, right

Thanks, as always Bill,
Chris

 

I thought

and from my experience with twins, lag is downright minimized, or non existant....

Tx

 

I agree with Rhino partially

But since you are runnin an auto, you would wanna better distribute that power, SO a GSK is right up your alley, then get a plate, if that were my choice.. My agreein with rhino is a turbo would really wake up your ride, but you will only fuel so far before the stock springs will kick u in the butt..

Tx

 

_______________________________________
I agree
I ran my 24v with the twins in its bone stock fueling (no box/injectors nothing) and it was real hard for me to tell the difference when I removed them and just ran the stock HX35 again but I was using the stock HX35 for the top turbo so... I dont have a lot to say about the new turbo designs and so on but I can say at lower hp levels (4-500hp) the towing set-up of twins is as good as it gets. You dont even know there there untill you romp on it and your boost gauge hits the pin at 60psi LOL. I guess if you need a 40 on top then its going to be a little slower?

 

The Bd Twins are Wicked fast at my fueling...The only thing I've changed sice that Dyno graph is the B1--->Twins

I'd like to dyno again, but I can't wait long enough to get the big ones and new pump installed
Chris