Any one have pictures of #8 plate?
#16
It depends on what you want to do with your truck and how soon you want to upgrade your tranny which plate you use.
A #0 and a 100 would be no fun towing with, your eyes would be glued to the pyro all the time. But these would be the best if it's just maximum power you want.
The 10 is the best all around plate in my opinion, egts and power can be controlled by sliding the plate back if you want to save your tranny.
A #0 and a 100 would be no fun towing with, your eyes would be glued to the pyro all the time. But these would be the best if it's just maximum power you want.
The 10 is the best all around plate in my opinion, egts and power can be controlled by sliding the plate back if you want to save your tranny.
#17
Bill ,i just dumped 3k$ into the tranny , it's got a billet converter , etc , i was guarateed i could not break it, and i don't tow.
I am planning to grind my own plate, so i basically get one shot at doing it right, what do all you guys used to grind your plate?
I am planning to grind my own plate, so i basically get one shot at doing it right, what do all you guys used to grind your plate?
#18
I use a 4" angle grinder with a medium grit flapper type disc then smooth it up with fine emery cloth. An air die grinder with a carbide burr works too.
It will grind fast, takes me less than a minute to make a 100 out of a stock plate.
Most important thing is to keep the ground surface square to the side of the plate.
Don't worry, grinding a plate is far from rocket science, take your time and you'll have no problem.
It will grind fast, takes me less than a minute to make a 100 out of a stock plate.
Most important thing is to keep the ground surface square to the side of the plate.
Don't worry, grinding a plate is far from rocket science, take your time and you'll have no problem.
#19
Originally Posted by Mcmopar
I wish I knew, I have had the banks plate in there, I now have the number six, I will try a number 4 soon, and I will be trying a 100 soon too? So right now it is trial and error. With the banks I dynoed 310/675 in November. I need to get back to the dyno to see what the 6 will do.
I should be about the same in HP and just higher in TQ.. I estimated mine at 330/750 or so, I have hit tho, 376/902 with some minor mods to it. IE removed the banks stuff on it and temporarily replaced with somethin better..... I have a banks plate right now for towing. It is the best one i have, and has the most controlable EGTS on it, which is the only reason i keep it.
Once rodeo season gets around or deer season is over, i tow much more frequently, And with that coming up soon i think im gonna get that banks plate back in there. There is no doubt in my mind tho, with some timing, and 370 injectors i will be over 400 RWHP with the 100 plate, but I will be lackin air, and i figure my TQ will be close to 1000 or so, which would be a good stoppin point for now.
I too need to get on a dyno, but ill wait until after injector install, i wanna see 400 as a minimum, and not be disappointed....
Tx
#20
Originally Posted by infidel
It depends on what you want to do with your truck and how soon you want to upgrade your tranny which plate you use.
A #0 and a 100 would be no fun towing with, your eyes would be glued to the pyro all the time. But these would be the best if it's just maximum power you want.
The 10 is the best all around plate in my opinion, egts and power can be controlled by sliding the plate back if you want to save your tranny.
A #0 and a 100 would be no fun towing with, your eyes would be glued to the pyro all the time. But these would be the best if it's just maximum power you want.
The 10 is the best all around plate in my opinion, egts and power can be controlled by sliding the plate back if you want to save your tranny.
how would u compare the banks plate I have in my gallery to the 10 plate, im ALMOST TEMPTED.. to sell, trade, or somethin with the banks plate for a 10 plate? id like to know ur take on this... thanks in advance...
Ive towed with a 100 just recently, you are right, it aint much fun....
Rick
#21
Rick, my understanding is the Banks plate is about like an #11 except the AT version has a more prominent nose half way up to lower the torque at the shift rpms.
I think with a Banks manual tranny plate slid most of the way forward it would be much like a #10.
TST plates were engineered to be used in the stock position. By sliding them forward or back you can pretty much make them behave like the next plate up or down.
Think the same would apply to the Banks, after all the early Banks plates were made by TST.
I think with a Banks manual tranny plate slid most of the way forward it would be much like a #10.
TST plates were engineered to be used in the stock position. By sliding them forward or back you can pretty much make them behave like the next plate up or down.
Think the same would apply to the Banks, after all the early Banks plates were made by TST.
#23
Hello everybody,new to the site (sorta) been reading for a while....very informative! 1st Question I have is I've been reading on about plates and everyone recommends the #10....in the chart it rates this as 330hp for the manual. Having a (BOMBED) Auto, would I be happier with a #6 or #5? I don't want to make my truck go overboard when towing and, should I do any other mods before the fuel plate
Thanks,
Cory
Thanks,
Cory
#24
Originally Posted by infidel
Rick, my understanding is the Banks plate is about like an #11 except the AT version has a more prominent nose half way up to lower the torque at the shift rpms.
I think with a Banks manual tranny plate slid most of the way forward it would be much like a #10.
TST plates were engineered to be used in the stock position. By sliding them forward or back you can pretty much make them behave like the next plate up or down.
Think the same would apply to the Banks, after all the early Banks plates were made by TST.
I think with a Banks manual tranny plate slid most of the way forward it would be much like a #10.
TST plates were engineered to be used in the stock position. By sliding them forward or back you can pretty much make them behave like the next plate up or down.
Think the same would apply to the Banks, after all the early Banks plates were made by TST.
i truley appreciate your assistance. i do run my banks full forward when i do, and from stock, u do feel a difference, but i also notice a huge difference between a banks and a 100 plate..
Rick
#25
Originally Posted by SmokinDzl
Hello everybody,new to the site (sorta) been reading for a while....very informative! 1st Question I have is I've been reading on about plates and everyone recommends the #10....in the chart it rates this as 330hp for the manual. Having a (BOMBED) Auto, would I be happier with a #6 or #5? I don't want to make my truck go overboard when towing and, should I do any other mods before the fuel plate
Thanks,
Cory
Thanks,
Cory
Well readin on here you should have an idea, I see that you want more power. Its addicting! I know... anyways, The first mod i would suggest u do, is add gauges before you add fuel. In your case, Most important, Pyrometer, boost, then trans temperature since u have an auto, A GSK, governers spring kit will really wake up your truck and better distribute your power band, and the plate well, i really cannot answer that as of yet, bein as i dont know what works well with your auto...
Thanks tho!
Rick
#26
I have the Gauges already, also thinkin' about a 4GSK! I also have the 450hp injectors just waitin' for my buddy to have a minute to put them in. (he's a teamster mechanic!) Figured I make a day of it and do the KDP at the same time. Then pondered the GSK kit and plate while I'm in there! I just see where the Manuals get 330hp and I only get 220hp, I don't want to be 2 far behind know what I mean!
#27
Originally Posted by infidel
Courtesy of Mt Tom
Thanks Bill you da man!!!
Thats what I was looking for. I pulled the 10 out today and compared it to the 8 a little closer and could tell the diference. We will see how it drives? It will be hard to tell as I did Gov springs and bumped the timming to 16 also so.... If nothing else the last couple of days with the truck down were learning experiences KDP/GSK/Plate and timming set all for the first time.
THANKS TO ALL THE DTR MEMBERS FOR THEIR RESPONCES Your support make this the best free (What you havent donated yet?) forum on the net.
#28
I installed a #6 in a 96 dually with an AFE, 4" turbo back, the afc kit, 3 GSK. This is a 4X4, with 4:10's, the truck and boat gross about 25.5K to 26K and the EGT's can get hot, 1500-1600 if you don't pay attention. That is towing up a long grade with the cruise on at about 70 MPH.
#30
Originally Posted by Mcmopar
Correct me if I am wrong, but sliding the plate all the way forward can cost you power? Right? It also raises the power and torque curves "up" in the RPM band? Right??
I have read that the best power from your plate is gotten at about 90 percent forward, But i run my plates at full forward all the time, all it does is give more fuel to the fire so to say. If you run a plate in the stock position, and then in the full forward position you will feel a difference, I have read on average you can gain about 30 horses (not certain crank or wheels) with a simple plate bump. As far as TQ i wouldnt be certain, but with the starwheel forward, and the plate forward u sure feel a difference on the low end on a manual...
Rick