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Another Turbo Thread

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Old 04-12-2008, 08:08 PM
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Another Turbo Thread (updated with new injectors)

I sold off a car that I was planning on building and made a few bucks in the process. I'm thinking about blowing it on a turbo for the truck in my sig. What really got me interested was the blow out sale on them at PDW. I'm can easily bury the pyro with the HX40/35 hybrid I've got now and I'm hoping this will cool it down for me. My next step would probably be a set of injectors in the late summer so that's something to keep in mind. The most weight I regularly tow is a 16x8 enclosed trailer with my car in it for a total of 6000lbs total. I'm leaning towards the PhatShaft 64 with a 14cm housing for a compromise of towing and HP but I wouldn't be totally against the 66 if it'll be OK pulling up and down the mountains out here.

John
Old 04-13-2008, 08:39 AM
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Twins.....
Old 04-13-2008, 09:37 PM
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I don't have the money to buy a set of twins or the fab skills/equipment to make my own.

John
Old 04-13-2008, 09:40 PM
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Hm, with a 64 you might want more fuel or it will be extra laggy. DDP2's on mine and Im seeing smoke I cant clear at WOT that im guessing will be easily cleared with a 62/12 I have coming. I might be wishing Id bought DDP3's soon =(
Old 04-13-2008, 10:04 PM
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Yeah, that's kind of what has been keeping me from buying a turbo in the past. If I buy the injectors first I'll really have heat problems but if I do the turbo first it might be too soft on the stock injectors. I don't want to have to buy a new turbo and then another one 6 months or a year later. Is the 64 really that much bigger than the turbo I have now that it will be tough to spool with stock injectors?

John
Old 04-14-2008, 11:56 AM
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Update. I just ordered a set of Stage 2 injectors (+70 - 90hp) from Pensacola so throw that into the mix and what turbo would you guys suggest. I read and read and then read some more before ordering the injectors so please don't come in the thread to tell me how terrible they are.

Thanks.

John
Old 04-14-2008, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by XLR8R
Twins.....
Agreed. Imo, twins are the way to go if you want 475hp or more. Yes, a big single can go much farther, but you're reducing the operating envelope of the truck to do so.

JMO
Old 04-14-2008, 04:37 PM
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I guess I should have given a HP "goal". I'm looking to make somewhere in the 400-450 range, I think that's do-able on a stock HG and will still allow for decent street/towing manners. The 62 and 64 are both rated for the same HP range so I'm still a little confused. Again, I'd love to do twins but its just not feasible for me right now. Maybe down the road I'll go there but I can't do it right now.

John
Old 04-14-2008, 04:56 PM
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Should I go with a 62 and then I could use it as a primary on a set of twins down the road? PDW's site says their twins set up uses a 62 as a primary. Would a 64 work as a primary in a set of twins but allow me some more cooling for the time being?

Thanks.

John
Old 04-14-2008, 05:46 PM
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From what I've read, not personal experience, the 64 will not cool better than a 62 in compressor in a towing situation. The 64 will cool better than a 62 when making 500 HP and racing down the 1/4 mile, but for towing and street duty, a 62 is the ticket for sure.

If you can't afford the extra coin for the Super Phat Shaft 62/71/14, just get the Phat Shaft 62/65/14. It will spool great on the street and offer a little better towing egts on long grades compared to the 62/65/12.

Note, the 12cm housing will offer slightly better cruising egt's, and will spool 50-100 rpm sooner, but it will choke in higher RPMs at 500 HP.

After looking at what you're running now, definitely get the 14cm housing.
Old 04-14-2008, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24
From what I've read, not personal experience, the 64 will not cool better than a 62 in compressor in a towing situation. The 64 will cool better than a 62 when making 500 HP and racing down the 1/4 mile, but for towing and street duty, a 62 is the ticket for sure.
Where did you read this? I would love to read this also.
Old 04-14-2008, 08:24 PM
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Thanks. I've just got to figure out what I'm going to do for a down pipe. PDW has a full down pipe on sale right now but its for a 4" exhaust, I need to make it work with my 5" that starts as a 4" and goes to 5" before the muffler. I really just need a HX40 style flange to weld to my existing down pipe. Suggestions?

John
Old 04-14-2008, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by atc250r
Should I go with a 62 and then I could use it as a primary on a set of twins down the road? PDW's site says their twins set up uses a 62 as a primary. Would a 64 work as a primary in a set of twins but allow me some more cooling for the time being?

Thanks.

John
Cooling is not just a function of compressor size. There's more to it than that.

The trick to keeping EGTs under control is having a turbo that's small enough to be driven adequately while being large enough to deliver the needed air.

The real challenge in turbo sizing is that the operating range of our engines is so incredibly broad compared to the operating range of a turbo.

A good turbo might perform adequately across a range of 200hp or so with controlled EGTs and sufficient response.

But on a bombed CTD, you're covering not only the 450 peak hp or so that you seek, but also very low HP levels just putzing around, it might take as little as 75hp to sustain a steady 35mph in town-- perhaps even less.


So if we size a turbo so it enters it's operating range quickly (transitioning from a steady cruise of 75hp or so to a higher power demand) then it will run out of operating range before it can make the big power number.


Conversely, if you size the turbo so that it can make 450-500hp, then it won't come into its operating range until you're nearing the 200hp level or what have you. The result is that you have tons of smoke and no response in that area between the 75hp cruising power level and the 200hp level where the turbo enters its operating range.


Since realistically you won't be sustaining peak power levels (450, 475, etc), I'd suggest keeping your turbo upgrade fairly modest to preserve as much transitional response (spoolup) as possible. Better imo to have toasty EGTs for the rare times you're at peak power than to be saddled with poor response the 90% of the time when you're NOT at peak power.

If you want to keep EGT under control at elevated power levels, it inevitably means some kind of response sacrifice.

I personally wouldn't go over a 62mm inducer until you're well past 500hp-- in the interest of preserving day-to-day utility.

I'm just thinking out loud here-- others can chime in with their opinions and help you arrive at a decision.

JH
Old 04-14-2008, 09:12 PM
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Thanks Justin. I see your point and you've given me some really good/useful advice in the past. I'm pretty well versed in turbos but not those geared towards diesels. I have a lot more experience with sizing them to 2.0L Mitsubishi gas engines but the whole compromise aspect of it is the same. Bottom line, is the 62 going to be a big change from the 40/35 hybrid I've got now?

John
Old 04-14-2008, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
The real challenge in turbo sizing is that the operating range of our engines is so incredibly broad compared to the operating range of a turbo.
Actually a diesel engine has a short powerband considering most street trucks see 3500RPM or less.

Originally Posted by HOHN
I personally wouldn't go over a 62mm inducer until you're well past 500hp-- in the interest of preserving day-to-day utility.
A 62/65mm is good for up to the 475hp area and a 62/71mm is good up to the 500hp area. An idea is for the 450-600hp range to stay with a 65mm or 68mm turbine for street use rather than limit the compressor range. I clip the turbine 10° on the 62/65mm and 15° on the 64/65mm, this is not needed with the 57/65mm.


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