OK, now I'm really getting close to upgrading my truck. It is a daily driver that is having a Knapheide utility body installed this week. I'm guessing the truck will weigh around 8000 pounds with tools and inventory. It is not a toy, and I don't want to have to worry about EGT's under normal driving. When I say it is not a toy, I'm saying I don't want to work on it all the time. It needs to be a trouble free vehicle. After all, without this truck on the road every day, my family will starve, as it is my electrical contracting truck.

My plan is to install a #10 plate and maybe some injectors. If I do go with injectors, I want a set that doesn't haze, or smoke unless I'm really going for it. I don't want hazing at idle or easy going driving. Are Bosch injectors the way to go for a non-toy daily driver? What Bosch injectors are available for a 12V? What injectors have the best spray pattern? I don't know what realistic HP & torque ratings are achievable with just a #10 and some injectors. I don't want to do any turbo mods, DV's, or anything gung ho like that. Is 300HP reasonable, or would I need to do much more than the above for the 300HP level? Is 300HP too much, or is that pushing it for a non-toy daily driver?

On my way to San Diego this morning, I spent about an hour on the phone with Dave Goerend talking transmissions. I couldn't believe how much he wants to help people out with information. I've realized that I can get what I want for much less money than what I anticipated.

Thanks.

-Roy

 

If you get your transmission figured out, then go with a #10 plate, and a 3k GSK. The GSK made an AWESOME difference on my truck, and they really help make the best of the stock unneficient torque converter. I have power all the way up to 3k rpm's now, not just 2400. With a 10 plate, and injectors you will have EGT problems unless you get 215's maybe. I would reccomend if its your work truck, a fuel plate, and a 3k GSK. EGT's should be fine with great power. My 2 pennies

Eric

 

The plate alone will make a big difference, try it alone then see if you want to go further.

 

Hes right, but with my stock automatic, the plate didnt make near as much diference as the Governor Spring Kit, because the engine still wont turn the RPM's it needs to, to get past the converters stall speed. About the only time a fuel plate helps a truck with a stock automatic, is if it does have a GSK, or if it just has the plate, it might help a little getting off in 1st, not much if any in 2nd, and 3rd, and then a lot once it hits overdrive, and the torque converter locks up in 4th where it is like a manual then since its not losing any power through the tranny. Do the Governor spring kit first, and either move your stock fuel plate full forward, or buy a #10, and you should be pretty happy.

Eric

 

After talking to both Mark & Scott at TST, I've decided to heed their advice and not use a #10 and a 3GSK for my particular application. They recommended a #6, or maybe even a #5, without a 3GSK.

I know the chart says 250 HP for the #6, and 270 HP for the #5. Is that a real world figure, or will I actually have a bit more? I'm hoping to get about 300 HP, and do it in a way that I could have my wife drive the truck if necessary. Basically a setup where you don't have to worry about anything.

Thanks.

 

use a #10 or a 100 if you get a decent converter in your tranny and by all means get the 3k kit. i am not try to sell you anything, just make your truck run better.

 

Both Mark & Scott at TST told me EGT's would be high for me. Obviously high EGT's to one person might be low EGT's to another. But they did suggest the #6 or possibly the #5, and went into great detail explaining why to use certain plates with certain pumps. My truck is not a toy, it is a work truck. The thought of a 100 plate is crazy considering what I do with my truck, but thanks for the advice.

Any ideas on actual HP output with the setup that was recommended to me by the designer of the plate?

 

my truck is driven 100 miles round trip every day, when i load up i am at 30k gross. so i would consider my truck a work truck. the whole plate# system is a joke. if a #10 has too much egts, you slide it back towards the fire wall, or get your foot out of it. it is simple and easy, not near as much as some would like you to belive. my truck has 257k on it, and still has the stock head gasket. i don't have money to waste, what i have suggested works like a champ and i have done it to many trucks.

 

Point taken gunracer1. I appreciate your comments. They did say that they didn't recommend the 10 with automatics, but I know there are plenty on this board who do just that. I guess it has to do with personal preferences. I wish I had money to burn in order to find out what I prefer the most.

 

i couldnt help but notice that you want the vehicle to be trouble free...by getting anyplate with injectors you're gonna be pushing the tranny ..the first thing thats gonna fail is the lockup clutch...getting 300 hp is a joke ...just by slidign the stock plate fully forward you'll get an extra 30 hp...you can go with 370 injectors and be close to 300 with that right away....but i think if you're gonna be pushing 300 on the 12 valve then that will put u well over 700 foot pounds and you're gonna need gauges cause egts will climb at that hp....you wann increase the reliability of your vehicle then get a really beefy torque converter and get a shift kit or better valve body to increase line pressures...im a fan of the triple lok design and am saving for that

ps like was said by everyone else ignore the number system of the plates...the system is based on the plates being in stock position it means nothing do a search on fuel plate pics on here and find the profile u most like and get it for yourself...3k gsk will simply increase your rpms...do nothign to increase fuel delivery or power but you'll think u have more

good luck

Andrew

 

Mr T - Gauges and Goerend Bros tranny mods will take place prior to fueling mods. I know that you're just covering the bases, but I pity the fool who talks about fuel upgrades without already having their tranny and gauges taken care of. (Mr T voice)

 

Why skip the GSK? It will make the truck a TON more driveable. Also... why worry about going for a set HP. You arent going to get to 300 with JUST a plate, so go ahead, and get the plate with the best profile, and add injectors to that, and move the plate to produce how much HP you want, and be done with it. The most DRIVEABLE setup is what you want. Not the one with just the most HP. Im sure a GSK wont make as much difference with a modded auto as a stock auto, but i sure wouldnt skip it either way.

Eric

 

yeah yeah another mr T joke ...yeah what cumminsdriver says...ur gonna be pushing some some good power

 

royta:

The other members have already given you some very good advice. I wanted to
give you some comparable numbers I had on my 1996 Dodge CTD early in my
"modification/BOMBING" process.

I started with a #6 TST plate and 3K governor springs along with a stock transmission
but with a "Trans-Go Shift Kit" installed. At that point I was putting down 280 H.P.
At about 98,000 miles, my stock tranny was wearing out. The torque converter
started shuddering when shifting into overdrive. So,.......Scheid Diesel rebuilt my
transmission and installed a "Pro-Torque" Converter. I also had 370 Diamond B
Marine Injectors installed along with the 4K Governor Springs and the #4 TST plate.
I then dyno'ed the truck again and this time it put down 381 H.P./1069 Torque.
I can tell you that the 370 injectors put out alot of smoke in my truck at WOT, so those may
be too much for what you want. I know that the 215's are real good injectors with very
acceptable smoke. I tried them in my truck, but wanted more power so I went with
the 370's. I finally got to 508 H.P. with a single charger, but that was by having the
P7100 pump "recalibrated", and adding an HX-40/16 Turbocharger along with running
alot higher timing. My engine was just completely rebuilt by Scheid Diesel and I went
with all the "bells and whistles" this time! You can look at my signature to see where
I am at now. Needless to say, the old 12 valve, P7100 engines are capable of making
alot of power!

Anyway, that should give you some reference numbers to go by. Hope this has helped
you some.

Good luck!

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John_P