hey don pm a price pleez

 

Don--I used ARP's assembly lubricant when I torqued my existing head down are you saying ARP has a new/different moly???

Also for my pea brain you say not to use oil, but then you say if retoque and use oil you torque to 125---you got me going in circles here---

so you torque to 96lbs using ARP's moly and you're done---yes or no

if you retorque--which I've always been under the impression you should--you torque to 125lbs using ARP's moly---yes or no

do you need to retorque---yes or no

what boost levels have been attained during testing??? 60/70/80/90/100/100+

sorry for the questions, but I like to see the whole pic in front of me----chris

 

I will be testing a set next weekend. Around 70lbs of boost on a stock ETC head gasket. I was told to retorque after an hour, then about a month later. Hopefully all the retorque is done by Muncie. Tim

 

Chris,

Re-tq is a good idea. 1 hour after install and complete warm up. 1 month later as well.

96 lbs with the ARP lube. If you run out of ARP lube or you misplace it and are forced into using oil....125 lbs is the MAX value.

Using the ARP moly you never exceed 96 lbs. This only pre-loads the bolt past the materials specs and actually fatigues it.

Boost level, temp of that boost level, and the amount of TQ and HP the engine makes at what rpm is the deciding factor on clamp load needed to seal any flange. At 220,000 PSI there is enough force there to hold a MEP of over 700 PSI time and time again.

The material is proven in other engines in high stress applications. Their not made from the H-11 tool and die steels that can hydrogen embrittle from cruddy heat treatments and can fail with even slight amounts of moisture that cause serious corrosion troubles. If you have a pressure rating you feel is higher than others i.e. serious HP way over 700 HP and really lean on the engine hard we can make a stud from a material with even higher clamp up force in a one off. The biggest obsticle is price. Over twice the cost of these. 99.9% of us do not need a stud any stronger than the ones above.

Don~

 

Don! You've done it again! For the power level I had planned, I was afraid I was going to have to O-ring or Fire Ring, and of course my stock head is probably cracked, so that would mean a Marine Special from you for big $$. Now I hopefully won't have to spend almost 3K to run 50-55psi safely.

Do we get these from the usual places, or directly from you? Rod is my man, so I'd be expecting to order from him.

Heck, one MIGHT even be able to get away with running modest twins on a stock gasket, no?

I don't have a service manual (yet) so how far do you have to take down the top end to get to the head bolts? This sounds like something you could do in 2 hrs-- am I crazy?

BTW-- open question here. What causes the heads to crack? Is it uneven cooling (cooling system) or casting flaws?

One WOULD be tempted to think that the head cracking could be prevented by a quality cryo treatment. Don, do you cryo your heads? I know that Cryo 1 will do a large casting for like $200ish and it's WORTH EVERY PENNY.


Justin

 

You can get to all the headbolts after removing the valve cover.

 

Don.
I already have my block o-ringed on my truck,not the head the block.Are you saying that i can replace the bolts with these studs one at a time & not loose the torque on my head gasket.Would i have to retorque these studs if i replace them this way?What kind of boost do you think this type of setup will take.Thanks

Kurt

P.S. can you pm me a price & where to order them from.

 

I know lots of guys are looking for the price and I'm shure Don doesn't have time to PM everybody so check out his site for the pricing.

http://f1diesel.com/headstuds.html

Horace

 

hey horace you coming up for the dyno day this saturday in lewisville?

 

Thanks Don for the reply and clarifications--let's see I was at 741 hp last year and who knows this year---will these work?????

thanks Battering Ram for the link.............chris

 

Don M,

Are you saying that your studs will keep a 120,000 mile headgasket, like the one in my truck, in 1 piece? Being pushed to 50psi? You can install and remove them with the motor in the truck?

 

Stake,

No, cant guaranteee a gasketed flange that old.

Perhaps, if the boost is cool enough, but I doubt that at your elevation. the turbo is way off the map at that boost and elevation

Yes, easy swap


Don~

 

Trust me, I know.

 

LOL!!

 

Its hard to run fast, keep the EGT's down, and not lift a stock gasket here.

Thought you might have something I could use.