To All With Goerend Trannies
01-15-2007, 10:05 PM
#31
mine has a modified 15 blade stator.... it is TIGHT compaired to a stocker..... i can foot brake it to ~1700 and once the turbo lights it'll flash 1800-1900 as the tires break loose....
to quote Dave Goerend....
"To explain "stall speed", let’s start with a true full stall. If the transmission were in drive, the brakes were held down (so the vehicle will not move) and the throttle was held "wide open" the torque converter will "stall" the engine at a certain rpm. When "stalled" the engine will not be able to spin any faster unless the vehicle is allowed to move. This is a true full stall. We have specialized equipment which is used to perform this test.
DO NOT TEST FOR TRUE STALL, IT CAN DAMAGE SHAFTS AND OVERHEAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER!
The next stall speed is generally called "break away" stall speed. If a truck is stopped on a hill and held in position using light throttle as opposed to brakes we are almost at the "break away" stall speed. If the engine rpm required to "hold" the truck was 1100 rpm and an increase to 1125 rpm started to move the truck then the "break away" stall speed is 1125 rpm.
The last stall speed is generally referred to as the "flash stall" speed. The flash stall speed takes effect under hard acceleration. If, from a standing start, you were to "floor" the throttle the engine would start to accelerate quickly and then pause at an rpm is it starts to pull the truck. If the engine went from idle to 1500 rpm in 1.5 seconds when floored and then took another 2 or 3 seconds to get from 1500 to 1700 rpm, this would mean the "flash stall" speed was at 1500 rpm. When we lower the stall we want to lower the break away speed as well as the flash stall speed. This will make the engine work at a lower rpm for a given road speed and, in most cases, will increase fuel mileage. "
hope this hepls SRT20
to quote Dave Goerend....
"To explain "stall speed", let’s start with a true full stall. If the transmission were in drive, the brakes were held down (so the vehicle will not move) and the throttle was held "wide open" the torque converter will "stall" the engine at a certain rpm. When "stalled" the engine will not be able to spin any faster unless the vehicle is allowed to move. This is a true full stall. We have specialized equipment which is used to perform this test.
DO NOT TEST FOR TRUE STALL, IT CAN DAMAGE SHAFTS AND OVERHEAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER!
The next stall speed is generally called "break away" stall speed. If a truck is stopped on a hill and held in position using light throttle as opposed to brakes we are almost at the "break away" stall speed. If the engine rpm required to "hold" the truck was 1100 rpm and an increase to 1125 rpm started to move the truck then the "break away" stall speed is 1125 rpm.
The last stall speed is generally referred to as the "flash stall" speed. The flash stall speed takes effect under hard acceleration. If, from a standing start, you were to "floor" the throttle the engine would start to accelerate quickly and then pause at an rpm is it starts to pull the truck. If the engine went from idle to 1500 rpm in 1.5 seconds when floored and then took another 2 or 3 seconds to get from 1500 to 1700 rpm, this would mean the "flash stall" speed was at 1500 rpm. When we lower the stall we want to lower the break away speed as well as the flash stall speed. This will make the engine work at a lower rpm for a given road speed and, in most cases, will increase fuel mileage. "
hope this hepls SRT20
01-16-2007, 09:43 PM
#32
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well, we might as well forget about all this tranny stuff. the most the bank would give me was $500, just a wee bit short of the $5000 i asked for. not enough credit they said. soooo, i guess i'll just count my pennies...
01-16-2007, 09:48 PM
#33
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mine has a modified 15 blade stator.... it is TIGHT compaired to a stocker..... i can foot brake it to ~1700 and once the turbo lights it'll flash 1800-1900 as the tires break loose....
to quote Dave Goerend....
"To explain "stall speed", let’s start with a true full stall. If the transmission were in drive, the brakes were held down (so the vehicle will not move) and the throttle was held "wide open" the torque converter will "stall" the engine at a certain rpm. When "stalled" the engine will not be able to spin any faster unless the vehicle is allowed to move. This is a true full stall. We have specialized equipment which is used to perform this test.
DO NOT TEST FOR TRUE STALL, IT CAN DAMAGE SHAFTS AND OVERHEAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER!
The next stall speed is generally called "break away" stall speed. If a truck is stopped on a hill and held in position using light throttle as opposed to brakes we are almost at the "break away" stall speed. If the engine rpm required to "hold" the truck was 1100 rpm and an increase to 1125 rpm started to move the truck then the "break away" stall speed is 1125 rpm.
The last stall speed is generally referred to as the "flash stall" speed. The flash stall speed takes effect under hard acceleration. If, from a standing start, you were to "floor" the throttle the engine would start to accelerate quickly and then pause at an rpm is it starts to pull the truck. If the engine went from idle to 1500 rpm in 1.5 seconds when floored and then took another 2 or 3 seconds to get from 1500 to 1700 rpm, this would mean the "flash stall" speed was at 1500 rpm. When we lower the stall we want to lower the break away speed as well as the flash stall speed. This will make the engine work at a lower rpm for a given road speed and, in most cases, will increase fuel mileage. "
hope this hepls SRT20
to quote Dave Goerend....
"To explain "stall speed", let’s start with a true full stall. If the transmission were in drive, the brakes were held down (so the vehicle will not move) and the throttle was held "wide open" the torque converter will "stall" the engine at a certain rpm. When "stalled" the engine will not be able to spin any faster unless the vehicle is allowed to move. This is a true full stall. We have specialized equipment which is used to perform this test.
DO NOT TEST FOR TRUE STALL, IT CAN DAMAGE SHAFTS AND OVERHEAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER!
The next stall speed is generally called "break away" stall speed. If a truck is stopped on a hill and held in position using light throttle as opposed to brakes we are almost at the "break away" stall speed. If the engine rpm required to "hold" the truck was 1100 rpm and an increase to 1125 rpm started to move the truck then the "break away" stall speed is 1125 rpm.
The last stall speed is generally referred to as the "flash stall" speed. The flash stall speed takes effect under hard acceleration. If, from a standing start, you were to "floor" the throttle the engine would start to accelerate quickly and then pause at an rpm is it starts to pull the truck. If the engine went from idle to 1500 rpm in 1.5 seconds when floored and then took another 2 or 3 seconds to get from 1500 to 1700 rpm, this would mean the "flash stall" speed was at 1500 rpm. When we lower the stall we want to lower the break away speed as well as the flash stall speed. This will make the engine work at a lower rpm for a given road speed and, in most cases, will increase fuel mileage. "
hope this hepls SRT20
Never tried the break away test.
On the flash stall, I havent dont that in awhile either. But I do remember that WOT from a stop, the engine goes to approx 2800rpms and pretty much stays there til lock-up hits then she will rev out to 3250rpm.
So I take it my TC isnt very efficient? Thanks Bret
01-16-2007, 09:53 PM
#34
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that sucks! dont feel bad, i dont have any credit either.
01-16-2007, 11:46 PM
#36
Thanks Bird. I have in the past "powerbraked" my truck. I dont remember for sure, but am almost positive the true full stall was well above 2k.
Never tried the break away test.
On the flash stall, I havent dont that in awhile either. But I do remember that WOT from a stop, the engine goes to approx 2800rpms and pretty much stays there til lock-up hits then she will rev out to 3250rpm.
So I take it my TC isnt very efficient? Thanks Bret
Never tried the break away test.
On the flash stall, I havent dont that in awhile either. But I do remember that WOT from a stop, the engine goes to approx 2800rpms and pretty much stays there til lock-up hits then she will rev out to 3250rpm.
So I take it my TC isnt very efficient? Thanks Bret
man that sux.... atleast you got a large ammount of info in this thread for future use.... let me tell you from experience..... it's not the best idea to go in debt unless you HAVE TO.... i had to i just didn't have to as much as i did..... save a little money every month and in no time you'll have enough to get Daves basic tranny..... then you can upgrade ftom there.....
01-17-2007, 05:26 PM
#37
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ya your right man, i appreciate your time and info and all, and i'll let you know when i get it. it might be a while, but i'll still let ya know.
01-25-2007, 01:13 PM
#38
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Well, I ordered mine- here's what I got-
triple lock converter
built tranny
billet input
reinforced flexplate from Haisley Machine
When I asked about stall speed, he started talking about stator numbers (900/400 or 800/300 I think) and it went over my head. But I think he decided on the 15 blade stator. I didn't make any requests about the valve body or anything; just told him my hp goals and what I'd be doing with the truck and figured he would hook me up with what I needed. I've heard a couple of people talking about a valve body that locks up in every gear- is that something I should have discussed w/ him- how to set up the valve body? Thanks. -Josh
triple lock converter
built tranny
billet input
reinforced flexplate from Haisley Machine
When I asked about stall speed, he started talking about stator numbers (900/400 or 800/300 I think) and it went over my head. But I think he decided on the 15 blade stator. I didn't make any requests about the valve body or anything; just told him my hp goals and what I'd be doing with the truck and figured he would hook me up with what I needed. I've heard a couple of people talking about a valve body that locks up in every gear- is that something I should have discussed w/ him- how to set up the valve body? Thanks. -Josh
01-25-2007, 01:59 PM
#39
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You wont be dissapointed 
I did get Dave to set my VB up for lockup in every gear. It still only locks in overdrive, but I can use my lockup switch to make it lock in any gear, at any time, and hold it there. Its pretty nice if you are going to be competing any, but if you are just going to be driving it, then its not something you "need". Just something to have fun with. You could always call him back, and ask him to set it up for lockup in all gears. It would be there even if you never used it.
Eric
I did get Dave to set my VB up for lockup in every gear. It still only locks in overdrive, but I can use my lockup switch to make it lock in any gear, at any time, and hold it there. Its pretty nice if you are going to be competing any, but if you are just going to be driving it, then its not something you "need". Just something to have fun with. You could always call him back, and ask him to set it up for lockup in all gears. It would be there even if you never used it. Eric
Well, I ordered mine- here's what I got-
triple lock converter
built tranny
billet input
reinforced flexplate from Haisley Machine
When I asked about stall speed, he started talking about stator numbers (900/400 or 800/300 I think) and it went over my head. But I think he decided on the 15 blade stator. I didn't make any requests about the valve body or anything; just told him my hp goals and what I'd be doing with the truck and figured he would hook me up with what I needed. I've heard a couple of people talking about a valve body that locks up in every gear- is that something I should have discussed w/ him- how to set up the valve body? Thanks. -Josh
triple lock converter
built tranny
billet input
reinforced flexplate from Haisley Machine
When I asked about stall speed, he started talking about stator numbers (900/400 or 800/300 I think) and it went over my head. But I think he decided on the 15 blade stator. I didn't make any requests about the valve body or anything; just told him my hp goals and what I'd be doing with the truck and figured he would hook me up with what I needed. I've heard a couple of people talking about a valve body that locks up in every gear- is that something I should have discussed w/ him- how to set up the valve body? Thanks. -Josh
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