ajustable boost controller
#1
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ajustable boost controller
will this diy boost controller setup work on my truck in sig with a stock turbo?
if not, what is the best method for me to use?
if not, what is the best method for me to use?
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will this diy boost controller setup work on my truck in sig with a stock turbo?
if not, what is the best method for me to use?
if not, what is the best method for me to use?
Pressure is pressure, its just a spring loaded valve, you'll just have to play with your springs to get the right spring rate and tension.
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i don't think the controller is designed for a vacuum system. the air psi coming in from the has to 'push' the ball back in order to flow thru and open the wastegate. this is how i understand it.
that being said - if i have the hard lines then it will not work for me. i think it will only work with the soft lines.
if i have hard lines - can they be removed and replaced with soft line?
that being said - if i have the hard lines then it will not work for me. i think it will only work with the soft lines.
if i have hard lines - can they be removed and replaced with soft line?
#5
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That valve was designed for vacuum as the ball is a check valve to maintain vacuum on the signal side untill you get boost. I guess the correct term would be for a gas engine with throttle. The Check seals off for vacuum conditions but flows for boost.
The TST elbow only has the restriction (Set screw), bleed orifice and connections. You could build the same without the spring and ball with an elbow. But for $25 from TST, I don't have the drill small enough for the bleed.
I don't know if the hard lines can be taken off as I think they are soldered to the actuator. That being said, the HY is a limited use turbo. The power upgrades are pretty limited with the boost and flow from the HY.
The TST elbow only has the restriction (Set screw), bleed orifice and connections. You could build the same without the spring and ball with an elbow. But for $25 from TST, I don't have the drill small enough for the bleed.
I don't know if the hard lines can be taken off as I think they are soldered to the actuator. That being said, the HY is a limited use turbo. The power upgrades are pretty limited with the boost and flow from the HY.
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That setup will work fine on a unthrottled engine. I'd prefer that over a boost elbow, as the bleed off orifice is leaking air all the time, whereas that setup would only leak when the pressure overcomes the seat pressure on the ball.
FWIW, your engine should have the HX on it, HY's started in 01. The wrecked '00 24v I have had an HX on it, and it was a 215hp auto engine.
FWIW, your engine should have the HX on it, HY's started in 01. The wrecked '00 24v I have had an HX on it, and it was a 215hp auto engine.
#7
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That setup will work fine on a unthrottled engine. I'd prefer that over a boost elbow, as the bleed off orifice is leaking air all the time, whereas that setup would only leak when the pressure overcomes the seat pressure on the ball.
FWIW, your engine should have the HX on it, HY's started in 01. The wrecked '00 24v I have had an HX on it, and it was a 215hp auto engine.
FWIW, your engine should have the HX on it, HY's started in 01. The wrecked '00 24v I have had an HX on it, and it was a 215hp auto engine.
And I stand corrected, the HY was in 01, I was thinking 00.. Anyhow, if you wanted to make your own, that would work fine. For my first cut, I used a hose pincher and just pinched the line off. I was only bumping it up to about 34 psi so I wasn't worried, then came the other mods and that all went down the drain..
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just had a look at the turbo and wastegate to verify hard or soft line. it is a soft line to the wastegate.
looks like the tst elbow or the diy controller will both work. as tate said - i think i would prefer the diy controller as the pressure to overcome would be more accurate and instant once it hits - rather than just restricting airflow.
i'll start rounding up the parts!
oh yeah, where can i get some of the wastegate softhose if i need some more? anything special about it?
looks like the tst elbow or the diy controller will both work. as tate said - i think i would prefer the diy controller as the pressure to overcome would be more accurate and instant once it hits - rather than just restricting airflow.
i'll start rounding up the parts!
oh yeah, where can i get some of the wastegate softhose if i need some more? anything special about it?
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That's the turbo master. I think they may actually sell them here on this page also. There are some spring setups like these out for the s300's too. The idea is to let drive pressure push the wastegate open instead of boost.
#11
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Nothing special about the hosing. I used fuel line for a new hose on the S300.
Having the restricted flow or the ball and seat will work the same. Either way you have to overcome the spring pressure of the actuator and that is not on or off. The wastegates all open vs pressure and don't just pop open. You can see that on your gauge. the pressure will go up and over the set point and then settle back as the gate opens up.
Oh and if you are interested, I have a boost-bolt for your gauge install.. PM if you want it.
Having the restricted flow or the ball and seat will work the same. Either way you have to overcome the spring pressure of the actuator and that is not on or off. The wastegates all open vs pressure and don't just pop open. You can see that on your gauge. the pressure will go up and over the set point and then settle back as the gate opens up.
Oh and if you are interested, I have a boost-bolt for your gauge install.. PM if you want it.
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Funny you would mention that, my actuator is toast and I was thinking about the spring/ drive pressure setup for economical reasons. Has anyone used a similar setup and how did it work? My wastegate is currently closed permanently and I think the pressure, then the volume would make the spring setup work well with twins. any insight on the theory?
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Nothing special about the hosing. I used fuel line for a new hose on the S300.
Having the restricted flow or the ball and seat will work the same. Either way you have to overcome the spring pressure of the actuator and that is not on or off. The wastegates all open vs pressure and don't just pop open. You can see that on your gauge. the pressure will go up and over the set point and then settle back as the gate opens up.
Oh and if you are interested, I have a boost-bolt for your gauge install.. PM if you want it.
Having the restricted flow or the ball and seat will work the same. Either way you have to overcome the spring pressure of the actuator and that is not on or off. The wastegates all open vs pressure and don't just pop open. You can see that on your gauge. the pressure will go up and over the set point and then settle back as the gate opens up.
Oh and if you are interested, I have a boost-bolt for your gauge install.. PM if you want it.
harry sent me a boost bolt for the intake when i ordered my gauges from him. thanx though.
now, i just need someone locally here to give me a hand installing the gauges . . .
#14
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Hey, just put the gauges in my 08 over the weekend.. If I wasn't going to be flat on my back yankin out the NV, I would come down for a few brews and lend a hand!
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awesome, i saw some fuel line at rona by the compressor fittings which was rated to 250 psi at 70*F. will that hose work for this?
harry sent me a boost bolt for the intake when i ordered my gauges from him. thanx though.
now, i just need someone locally here to give me a hand installing the gauges . . .
harry sent me a boost bolt for the intake when i ordered my gauges from him. thanx though.
now, i just need someone locally here to give me a hand installing the gauges . . .