After-market innercoolers
#1
After-market innercoolers
Does anyone have any data on after-market innercoolers? I saw a thread here that spoke of a 70 degree temperature drop across the cooler (input vs. output). Has anyone purchased a cooler, or better yet, dyno'd one?
Thanks
BARTMAN
Thanks
BARTMAN
#2
I m in the middle of testing a new intercooler idea. Im still fabricating, so I don t have any numbers. I will have pre and post temps (thermo couple)before I put the other two in the sytem, as well as a pre dyno. Then Ill be adding two more intercoolers and retesting and redyno.
Im working on it today , I suspect 10-15 days before its operating, esspecially if I go ahead with some powder coating for better looks.
I hope to get past 1300 ft lbs.....but don t know at all if thats realistic.
Im working on it today , I suspect 10-15 days before its operating, esspecially if I go ahead with some powder coating for better looks.
I hope to get past 1300 ft lbs.....but don t know at all if thats realistic.
#3
Registered User
Re: After-market innercoolers
Originally posted by BARTMAN
Does anyone have any data on after-market innercoolers? I saw a thread here that spoke of a 70 degree temperature drop across the cooler (input vs. output).
Thanks
BARTMAN
Does anyone have any data on after-market innercoolers? I saw a thread here that spoke of a 70 degree temperature drop across the cooler (input vs. output).
Thanks
BARTMAN
I have some expirience with Haisleys 100 psi intercooler....appears very similar. Nice unit...well made with more flow tubes and more fins. But have never seen any dyno #'s or temp differentials.
RJ
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#5
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An intercooler (technically an AFTERcooler, as an intercooler goes between compressor stages), won't generally add any HP unless you are already way overfueled and grossly inefficient.
What they WILL do it help to drop EGTs. I wouldn't be eager to consider an aftermarket unit unless your stocker is leaking from high boost.
There's also the fact that almost ANY OEM item is not as good as it could be. Exhibit a: CTD with only 245hp
jlh
What they WILL do it help to drop EGTs. I wouldn't be eager to consider an aftermarket unit unless your stocker is leaking from high boost.
There's also the fact that almost ANY OEM item is not as good as it could be. Exhibit a: CTD with only 245hp
jlh
#6
Administrator
BARTMAN:
I am running Scheid Diesel's Aftermarket Intercooler in my 1996 Dodge CTD.
As the other members pointed out, I have seen a big reduction in exhaust
gas temperatures. Their units are made very well and are designed to
take the high boost and pressure of twin turbo systems. You can call
and talk to Kent Crowder @ Scheid Diesel (Lafayette, Ind.) if you are
interested. Here is his toll free number: 1-800-669-3533.
----------
John_P
I am running Scheid Diesel's Aftermarket Intercooler in my 1996 Dodge CTD.
As the other members pointed out, I have seen a big reduction in exhaust
gas temperatures. Their units are made very well and are designed to
take the high boost and pressure of twin turbo systems. You can call
and talk to Kent Crowder @ Scheid Diesel (Lafayette, Ind.) if you are
interested. Here is his toll free number: 1-800-669-3533.
----------
John_P
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#8
Just the tubing that holds the intercoolers. I got some of it done today, it will probably be operational by early next week. I don t generally agree that they don t add power. If the temp is lowered then more o2 is going in , even unver the same boost. Then there is always the advantage of adding more fuel to take advatage of that air, and adding more boost because egts are more controllable.
I guess Ill see soon enough if it works. Im taking pictures too....but wont post em till its done.
I guess Ill see soon enough if it works. Im taking pictures too....but wont post em till its done.
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Hohn
You are correct, it takes a pretty substantial increase in efficency to add power with just the aftercooler. Especially an Air to Air one, where it depends on a large volume of air to cool the IAT, which you obviously wont have in most dyno situations.
On the 2nd gen cummins however, things act a bit differntly. The oem aftercooler is so poorly designed most of them spring thousands of tiny leaks somewhere around 40-45 psi. Not really a problem on a stock truck but most people that are willling to spend money on an aftermarket aftercooler arent exactly stock.
Hope this helps
jason
You are correct, it takes a pretty substantial increase in efficency to add power with just the aftercooler. Especially an Air to Air one, where it depends on a large volume of air to cool the IAT, which you obviously wont have in most dyno situations.
On the 2nd gen cummins however, things act a bit differntly. The oem aftercooler is so poorly designed most of them spring thousands of tiny leaks somewhere around 40-45 psi. Not really a problem on a stock truck but most people that are willling to spend money on an aftermarket aftercooler arent exactly stock.
Hope this helps
jason
#10
Stock Coolers
After reading the "The City Diesel" website and the article covering the "Cool Twist" intercooler, has anyone temperature probed the stock unit? The last thread covered a great point I had overlooked, cooling affects through "wind chill factors"; the forced passing of air over the grid as demonstrated in forward movement of the vehicle at speed, something hard to duplicate on a dyno. You could place a large fan in front of the intercooler, but not quite the same. Anyway, how about static temperature differences on the stock input/vs output temps?
My signature is not updated to show the my latest mods, but I'm not pushing outrageous boost numbers, just looking for the best thermodynamic advantages I can to control EGT's.
BARTMAN
My signature is not updated to show the my latest mods, but I'm not pushing outrageous boost numbers, just looking for the best thermodynamic advantages I can to control EGT's.
BARTMAN
#11
Registered User
and as far as cooling the air-to-air cooler, what about the old-school method of misting the front of the cooler with water? would work with fan air or underway...
#12
Water mist
In myopinion, a water mist unit is like adding either NOS or a Snow meth unit; a novelty. Its good for a quick shot of power, but is both too labor intensive and not a long term reliable means of power. The modifications I want to, and plan on, are daily driven self sufficient. No bottles to fill (NOS and Meth)(and now a water tank for a misting source), or quick one time gains.
#13
Registered User
I can see your point on the NOS and the mist, but I've heard of guys running 8 gallon tanks for water and water/meth injection while towing and they only fill up when they take on fuel. I plan to do h20/meth with a large tank for the simple fact that, in my case, I would have to lose my factory grille to run an intercooler and that is simply not acceptable...I'm a softie for old dodges The way I see it, I'll get the cooling effect with straight water (free) and when I want a boost in hp, I can spring for meth
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