MrSuzuki

Yup...first post. Anyway, I plan to do the following modifications to my truck, but am looking for some advice on a couple questions.

What I plan to do:
1. Install a Napa 2970 BHAF, outerwear cover, and heat shield.
2. 4" MPRB exhaust with muffler reversed for better flow
3. Boost & EGT gauge
4. Luk Pro Gold clutch
5. Silicone Intercooler hoses
6. RV275 or the equivalent 300 injectors
7. Removed TST elbow, and blocked off wastegate
Note: only mod thus far is a TST #8 plate kit

Questions:
1. I have no AFC spring kit installed...not sure how it would effect the above mentioned setup...as I will adjust the star wheel...is this a must have?
2. GSK kits...3000 or 4000...want one, but with the mild mods listed above...is 4K really necessary? Also, TST website has a disclaimer for only using a GSK kit for certain plates...and mine is not listed...can't figure out why my plate would be an issue for a GSK kit?
3. Delivery valves...not sure what they are, and how they work with GSk's...explanation? do I need them"
4. Lastly...anything I am overlooking?

Thanks,
John

hotmopr

#1 . I would skip the BHAF and get a AFE with a heat shield. Get a replacement from Piers $70 and build a heat shield. The AFE flows much better. I ran a BHAF for a couple years and there is a big improvement in air flow.

#2. If That muffler is like a magnaflow it doesn't matter which way it goes in but I am not sure. magnaflows have round holes the MBRP may have louvers but I don't know.

#3. A must...

#4. Look at a South bend OFE much better and they have great customer service.. IMHO Many of my fellow bombers have complained about the Luk clutches and are very happy with the OFE or FE if you really want to race or PULL IT..

#5. I wouldn't bother with the stock turbo you should only be boosting it to about 35 PSI. Anything more is just blowing hot air..

#6. i wouldn't mess with the 300's you will only want more eventually and I recommend 370's. they are cheap and FUN.. Check Ebay...

#7. I would not totally block off waste gate. Put a small ball valve in the waste gate tubing and close it off till you get 35 psi Max. ( see #5 )

#8. I would get a 4K gsk. just because I have a 3K and want a 4K...

#9. Find a set of 181 dvs. They increase the amount of fuel sent to the injector. They will help feed them bigger sticks..

#10. I am not sure on the profile of the #8 plate. But I would get a stock plate and grind a 100. They are awesome...

#11. You should bump the timing up too. 16 - 17 degrees

#12. HAVE FUN!!!!

Also dont worry about the afc spring unless you have a problem with low boost smoke..
These are only my opinions.. I am sure some will disagree..

MrSuzuki

Ok...so if I go to 370 injectors, will I really need to go with new delivery valves? My thoughts are, if I deliver more fuel to a larger injector, it will inject more fuel...which means a lot of smoke, higher EGT's, and my little turbo will be going...so I am thinking it would make more sense to stick with the stock delivery valves, with the larger injectors...anyone's thoughts? By the way...what size delivery valves are in my stock pump?

Also, what is the major "driveablility" difference between the SBC OFE and FE?

I plan to grind my stock plate to a #100...that is a good idea. But when people refer to turning the starwheel "all the way"...are they loosening the tension of the spring all the way? I assume yes, so the governor hits the plate at a lower boost pressure, right?

Not sure I fully understand the concept of "sliding the AFC housing forward"...it seems to me, as the governor pivots towards the plate...fuel is delivered at the rate of a specific plate grind. therefore, if I slide the AFC housing forward, it will come in contact with the plate sooner...but wouldn't it therefore not be pivoting as much, and therefore not delivering as much fuel. I hope I asked that in way that is understandable.

Is there any major driveablity difference between a set of 3K & 4K gsk's?

TxDiesel007

Could not have said that any better myself... except try a zero for some real fun!! (smoke!)

Loosen teh starwheel, is more boost and more fuel at lower rpms, IE better low end punch, tighten it to get the inverse reaction. SLiding the afc housing forward i believe is just bumpin ur fuel plate forward. Just undo the screws from the AFC housing, 8mm screws and flatt driver and the loosen the 8mm behind the IP and then move the housing outta the way and adjust the plate and push it forward, towards the engine, you will get more fuel into the pumpand about 30 or so more hp.. but u do need guages.. good luck...

Will u need delivery valves with 370s? nope, i ran a set for a trial once, my egts were sky high with those and a 100 plate, the DVs in ur truck i dont know, i know mine has the 181's but i will invest in schieds big valves soon enough, many ppl are runnin stock injectors with delivery valves, but regardless u might have some egt issues, until u get more air in there to burn fuel and cool the egts... 370s, and Dv's will really put a kick in that ride!

Tx

Deezle1

Ive got 370's, 191s, and a 650 BD fuel plate in mean green and it is sweet........do those and crank up the boost, minus the plate if u gettin another

Smokin her up,
Dom

Jeremy Cusick

Mr. Suzuki, you get my reply to your PM last night? Hope I helped you out a bit.

MrSuzuki

Jeremy,

yes I did..thanks so much. working on building a driveable truck, that smokes the competition. I have read many of your posts...any thoughts on what I am trying to put together?

Jeremy Cusick

Sounds like you got a good idea of what'll make power.
I see you're looking at the LUK progold clutch. Probably oughtta skip it and go for a south bend. I was looking at the LUK, until I kept reading about everyone slipping them with mild - moderate mods. Other than that, you're on the right track, IMO.

Jeremy Cusick

One other thing to consider is a 14CM wastegated exhaust housing for the turbo... It''l keep the quick spool up, but reduce exh. temps.
Mine with the 100 plate doesn't hit over 1200* preturbo.