got...DIESEL?

Talking to moser for the rear end. I have told them the engine is cabable of 1300 lb/ft...and by the time you multiply that by the first gear ratio as well as the axle ratio.....it's gonna have to be one tough mother.....u-joint and lines as well!! I would go with an 80, but I kinda need to stay with a smaller lug pattern so wheels and tires aren't an issue....an 80 with an 8 lug floater might pose some challenges in that department, and I don't want the look of a floater back there either. We'll see what washes out.

All said and done, If I can get the weight down to 3000 or 3500 lbs, I'm hoping for a realistic deep high 10, low 11 sec 1/4. 3500 lbs is still heavy for a drag car (truck), and I don't know if it can be done...but at sea level with 60 deg temps and 70% humidity, I hope it's attainable without asking for more horsepower. Anything over 650-700 I imagine is pretty hard to get reliably, and the cost goes up exponentially as well.

wannadiesel

Since you're keeping the weight down and this isn't a tow rig I don't think you will have much trouble with a well built Ford 9 inch. It's not really the torque that hurts 'em, it's having something resisting the torque.

CTD NUT

I'll have to disagree with the 9" holding up to the power and weight.........they work fine in a 2200 lb race car but as the weight of the vehicle and torque goes up the 9" axles seem to fold kinda quick.....I have seen far too many 9" axles blow up when the owner thought they had a stout axle - not so! Lots of guys around here with fast street cars (not ultra light-weight race cars) have switched to D60's and have ended their rear end problems. For a project on the scale what got Diesel is planning, I think a 9" would be out of place.....what would be the benefit of a 9" in this application?

Got Diesel,

Moser will be able to build you axle shafts in any bolt pattern you want if you were to go to a semi float.....while the semi float isn't as strong, it would be possible to move up to a 37 or 40 spline semi float shaft for a D70 or a D80 if felt 35 spline wasn't going to be strong enough......something to consider anyway.....also, there are aftermarket full float bearing hubs that have enough material to be machined down to 4 1/4" OD so that you can accomadate a 5 on 5 1/2" bolt pattern. There are many options that you could consider.

got...DIESEL?

with the 10K lb/ft yield of the 35 spline, it might be borderline, however that is per axle, giving you another 100% slush zone due to the other axleshaft strength/load sharing. Still on the fence, but if a full floater can be turned down to fit the hub of a large 5 bolt circle, and hence a popular wide 15" wheel, that is what I would rather do. I'm working out tire profile against final gear ratio for top rpm at a given speed. A 33" profile with 3.55 butt gears will yield 3550 rpm at 140 mph. With 3.73's 3720 rpm. I used 140 mph as an absolute top trap speed. I really have no idea of what it could actually be, But I feel safe with that . The last thing I wanna do is run out of engine before the trap. With half the weight of a Ram, I think 3.55 might be a good gear, and a 33" x 21.50" I hope will yield enough wrinkle and footprint to keep this thing glued on a stalled launch. The engine is capable of upper rpm's with the tall gov kit, and the 3.73's might yield better acceleration though and save a "run down" race.....and if I ever got close to that 140 trap speed, then I really under estimated the speed potential of this truck......so I'm leaning towards 3.73's. Hmmmm....what to do.

As far as the front end......at 120 mph +++, I agree with the coilover conversion. I don't want leaf spring aka cement truck instability at the top end, especially in a nose heavy chassis, and I think coilovers will provide a little better control and longer reach to keep the tires on the ground after the 60' mark. The problem is....finding a kit for a 51 dodge has proven difficult. So maybe you can lead me towards a good coilover alternative to do a ground up custom suspension.

Be back soon

Chris

mkubacak

Here are a couple of rearends. I doubt you could break the second one.

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/pdf/135.pdf

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/pdf/136.pdf

hotmopr

I would run a 67-69 camaro, El camino, or Chevelle front clip with Big block El Camino coil springs. They are a common street rod conversion and all parts are available. As for the rear end I would run a Dana 60 with Moser axels and ladder bars and coil overs.

got...DIESEL?

what do you guys think about the Viper 6 sp manual behind this engine? Do you think it would be up to the task....with a custom clutch to work on the input shaftof course? There are those doing some pretty big numbers with the V10's. It's a lot of gear shifting, but a quick throw car trans would be pretty easy to drive right, and keep the power up between gears.

Are there any other "other-than-granny-first" manuals that would suit this app?

Just a thought.....though I am sure an auto would still be quicker, a manual would be more fun....and with fewer variables.

G-NOTE

Richmond T-56 or TREMEC 6spd, They will hold...

I belive the T-56 is what they use in the VIPER, Check with TNT motorsports...

http://www.tntvipers.com/

SmokinFive9 4x4

I don't know about the radiators in the new trucks, but the intercoolers in the 94-up trucks are pretty short aren't they? Or maybe one from a newer superduty Ferd? and I'm assuming with the lift off front end that the inner fenders will be MIA and one might fit up front pretty nicely behind the headlights and all. Might simplify your plumbing having only two pipes for the radiator going to the bed. Just a thought. Or if it's going to be race only, then the Pro-Charger style that the mustangs use alot that sit where the passenger seat was might work?

Can't wait to see it ! :-) If you weren't in Alaska I'd come be a helper just for the experience lol.

smokindog

Holy schnikes Did you see the price of those things

mkubacak

Best of both worlds. Lenco.

yarddog

SWEET! Can't wait to see it finished.

You could always go with a narrowed 14 bolt. They're readily available in junk yards for $75-100. You can have the hubs drilled to whatever pattern you want, with disc's and a Detroit and be around $1200 total. No sense spending huge cash on a rear axle if you don't have to.

600 Megawatts

Lenco's are an overrunning sprag design, therefore you have no ability to transmit torque in the reverse direction, IE engine braking of any amount at all. Lift your foot out of the throttle and its like its in neutral.... not exactly a good idiosyncrasy for the street.



KP

clarkoh

I am starting a similar project..using my 92 2wd ctd as a donor and building a fiberglass M37 Dodge Power Wagon. It will be chopped, channeled and stretched in the cab and the hood area. Needs more room for the 6B. Using an automatic and NASCAR style suspension. I am getting the front clip from Bobby Wellmon, next week. It will be heavy .120 wall tubing with Nextel Cup suspension and brake components. I am going to try a 9" Ford with 35 spline axels and use the truck arms common to most NASCAR stock cars. Wish me luck. And good luck to you, Chris.

storx

hey thats pretty cool......me and my buddy are building a Trike motorcycle that has a 82 vanagon trans and axles with a 84 jetta gl 1.6l turbo diesel engine............there a guy who built one in california and according to his website that use to be online before he moved to mexico to retire was getting 91.6 MPG average on highway and 71.2 MPG city......my buddy is going to be the owner of the bike when we finally finish it



this is the latest photo of the trike posted on another site before the original site went down.......really wish it was still up because he really showed you step by step on how he build it....