BARTMAN

Installed the head studs today (ARP), replacing bolts with studs one at a time in the vehicle. After reading ALL the threads here, talking with several vendors, and my own SBC racing experience, I used the following method:
1. Removed stock bolt.
2. Ran a suction tube down into the hole. Was VERY surprised at the amount of material and fluid I got out of the hole.
3. Threaded the stud, dry, into the hole and let it bottom out. I then removed the stud and cleaned the threads. Since I was not installing these on a cleaned block in the stand, and having just removed through suction cutting oil and engine oil, I felt enough lubricant existed in the hole to allow for easy removal if ever needed. I tested one stud and coated the threads with moly lube prior to installing. This was the only stud I had problems with turning during the torqueing process. I eventually removed the stud and cleaned it.
4. Ran stud again to the bottom of the hole, and backed out one-half turn. I'm still split in this decision. I've never done this on many ARP studded race motors, and have never lost a gasket.
5. Some studs threaded in very easily, finger tips only. Others (all) threaded in easily, but required more hand pressure, using a palm wrench.
6. Torqued progressively the nuts to 120ft/lbs, and will heat cycle for setting at final torque of 125.
7. Only the front of the valve cover required grinding to clear the two front studs.
Process took forever (7 + hours, but I'm rather ****). Being lifted and sitting on 295's doesn't help.
Feed back on the installation please.....won't fire it until the morning. Rockers are still out.
Thanks

ratsun

Sounds good! lash the valves and away you go
I didnt have any clearence problems though?
How much did you need to grind?

BARTMAN

I had to grind the front valve cover a good bit, maybe 3/8's of an inch in an arc to clear the front studs. This area is a "boss" away from the actual valve cover gasket making surface. No affect at all on integrity of the sealing surface.

RowJ

Are you saying you torqued to 120 without the ARP lube.... or with?
Thought instruction called for 90 ft/lbs with the ARP lube?

RJ

ratsun

___________________

Good point RJ! I never caught that
120 is with oil and with the lube it was 90 something (maybe 96?) I cant remember but I know it was a fair bit less.

RowJ

Yeh I checked another thread... 96 is correct!
I have never seen the ARP kit.... was not available when I did mine head. Was just curious if they offer alternative instructions for oil... and no lube?

Not trying to rain on your parade, Bartman, but you asked for "feedback" ..... and I was just curious how you determined what torque setting to use?

RJ

BARTMAN

RJ,
Look at Don M's last post on his testing of ARP studs. He took his torques past 120. This is my final torque.
I used moly on the fine threads, washers, and nuts of course. I didn't on the course threads into the block. There was a fair amount of oil remaining, even after the suction treatment. The way I look at it, I'm clamping top down. I want the stud in the block to hold tight, providing a solid foundation to clamp the head to the block.

BARTMAN

RJ,
I was also at Power By Poole's yesterday. He too recommended torqueing to 120.

Boatnik

I try to get the mechanics here to back off studs in blind holes a minimum of half turn. I prefer one complete turn. This will help prevent the stud from jamming up in the bottom of the hole when tightened, if the stud has threads all the way to the bottom. Most of the time I machine the last three threads off the bottom of the stud so they will not jam in the unthreaded portion of the hole. That prevents damaging the hole when the studs are removed later down the road. In most cases 75% of the tension on a stud is in the top three threads of the hole anyway. The remaining tension is spread out through the remainder of the engagement. Over time this relaxes some and more tension is spread more evenly down the stud or bolt.

BARTMAN

Refer to Don M's post on 03-02-2005 @ 12:08AM. I also read, and re-read his information post on his elaborate torqueing/stretching analysis of ARP's product. Schied Diesel also uses 120ft/lbs, but with a different stud.

RowJ

Bartman, Good thread... Thanks! Newer info than the Nov 4, 2004 thread from Don M that I used for a reference. Appears he has softened a little on his feelings about heavy torqueing WITH the ARP lube!

I used 120 ft/lb on my Haisley 12mm studs. No problems. Retorqued after 20 months... no stretch.

RJ

BARTMAN

RJ,
How many heat cycles, if any, did you use before first retorqueing them? I'm going to use 4 (heat cycle=operating temperature and operate with boost less than or equal to 20). On gas race engines, I only verified torque once, after the first heat cycle, but wasn't pushing 40+psi (and neither am I turning 8000 rpm).
Thanks for the assistance with the injectors. 1.6's went in along with the studs! Temperature's are just what I wanted, and more kick with the TST turned off than on my normal 3 setting. Can't wait for the first safe boost run from haides.

ratsun

Hey Bartman
Piers recomended 4-6 heat cycles @ less than 30-40psi when I did mine
Then mark the studs with a paint marker on the stud and cap, after the retorque if your marks dont line up you need to do another retorque. If they line back up then your good to go.

BARTMAN

Thanks Ratsun. I'm hoping that the torque wrench "just clicks" and all is well. I understand what your saying, but also, if the lines stay lined up and you were able to move, or torque, the nut, then that means the stud is turning in the block. The only stud I had problems with this happening with is the one I put moly on and inserted in the block. Mistake. Should have known better. In the past, I've only used a light coating of anti-seize, so if the studs needed to be removed, or if you destroyed the block, you could remove and save the studs. Also, the physical challanges of performing this maintenance while the engine was in the truck was a pain. Maybe I'll lower it....not.

ratsun

Bartman
I was told to back them off a half turn or so then pull them back up to the 120 again.
I probably only backed off 1/3 or even less on most. Its a pretty good work-out LOL
None of my marks moved so I cant comment on the studs turning not the caps?
I would guess if the studs are turning you may be backing them off a little much?Use a quality torque wrench and get the temp down under 100 degrees (Piers recomended 90)