4kGSK
#1
4kGSK
Well, I just finished the install of my 4000 GSK. The truck was still stock, at least I assume so since the "lock wires" were still in place. I really didn't know what to expect with the new springs in.
After I got everything all wrapped up and took her for a spin,
What a difference! I can't believe that such a minor change made such a difference. That tach really zooms now! I am still keeping her below 3000 as I haven't done the new valve springs yet, doing those when I do the injectors.
Reading and learning about the install had me debating whether I could really do this, but when I tackled it, it wasn't a big deal at all. I went through the side port and would have to say this is the best way to go.
I will put out this warning for anyone doing this. There is a lever that connects to the bottom of the shutoff solenoid. I don't think I could have succesfully done this task without remove that lever. It is easy to remove, but take warning! There is a small "half moon" piece of metal that "lock" the lever on to a rod. This piece of metal is not attached to anything, it just sits in a little groove on the rod and fits into a groove on the lever mating the two pieces together. This thing can get out of place, fall, get lost.... Without it reassembly is not possible, at least not functionally possible. So take great care not to lose it, be very patient trying to put the lever back on without getting it out of place or having it fall, and put something underneath it to cath it as it is not an easy piece to find when it falls.
After I got everything all wrapped up and took her for a spin,
What a difference! I can't believe that such a minor change made such a difference. That tach really zooms now! I am still keeping her below 3000 as I haven't done the new valve springs yet, doing those when I do the injectors.
Reading and learning about the install had me debating whether I could really do this, but when I tackled it, it wasn't a big deal at all. I went through the side port and would have to say this is the best way to go.
I will put out this warning for anyone doing this. There is a lever that connects to the bottom of the shutoff solenoid. I don't think I could have succesfully done this task without remove that lever. It is easy to remove, but take warning! There is a small "half moon" piece of metal that "lock" the lever on to a rod. This piece of metal is not attached to anything, it just sits in a little groove on the rod and fits into a groove on the lever mating the two pieces together. This thing can get out of place, fall, get lost.... Without it reassembly is not possible, at least not functionally possible. So take great care not to lose it, be very patient trying to put the lever back on without getting it out of place or having it fall, and put something underneath it to cath it as it is not an easy piece to find when it falls.
#4
what can ya rev to? i got the 3k gsks this summer and i love them but im wondering if i shouldnt have gone straight to the 4k's....i cant rev it higher than approx 3300rpms...and my timing has never been changed either...i hear that makes a big difference in the higher rpms
#5
I was gunning it a bit this afternoon and shot past 3000 before I knew it. I let off the pedal when I noticed it at 3500.
I am doing the injectors and valve springs next... Guess I should do the head gasket while I am at it, then I plan on doing the timing. Anybody recommend this course of action?
I am doing the injectors and valve springs next... Guess I should do the head gasket while I am at it, then I plan on doing the timing. Anybody recommend this course of action?
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#8
Actually, look at my signature at the beginning of this thread. Apparantly when you do a "Quick Post" your signature is not used...
No leak in the gasket that I know of, but I am under the impression that as I BOMB this, and eventually put on a second turbo I will need that gasket there. So, is it better to wait for the need, or take care of it while I am in there?
More turbo is on the way, 1320 is going to be helping me out there...
No leak in the gasket that I know of, but I am under the impression that as I BOMB this, and eventually put on a second turbo I will need that gasket there. So, is it better to wait for the need, or take care of it while I am in there?
More turbo is on the way, 1320 is going to be helping me out there...
#11
Brett, I ve been on my stock 195k mile head gasket for more than a year now @ 50-55 psi. I don t think you ever drive this one out of town? Do you, you have the nice truck for that.......so I would deffinately wait till it needs it, then put on a slightly ported head, studs , maybe a fire ring.....
I have my extra head, hopefully Ill get it ready before I need it.
then i ll have the stock head off my truck.
I have my extra head, hopefully Ill get it ready before I need it.
then i ll have the stock head off my truck.
#12
Originally Posted by ViperSBT
Hell, I guess there is something else wrong with my signature as it isn't showing it on a post I did a regular reply to...
FWIW, your stock valve springs will work just fine at 3500 rpm. I wouldn't bother swapping to the heavier valve springs if you don't intend on revving past 3500 rpm with your 4000 GSK. Nice mod, huh?
#13
Well I already acquired the springs, so would putting them in be a drawback?
I grin everytime I get in the truck now!!!
Either I recently broke my fuel gauge or I am getting one hell of a difference in my mileage. Prior to this I was getting about 16.6MPG, should I be expecting a big difference?
I grin everytime I get in the truck now!!!
Either I recently broke my fuel gauge or I am getting one hell of a difference in my mileage. Prior to this I was getting about 16.6MPG, should I be expecting a big difference?
#14
response to Mr. T: You may want to check around but I don't think that the auto tranny's like the 4K GSK. I don't have the details on this but seem to remember some past discussions that the 4K worked best with a manual. So, you can be happy with your 3K kit Viper - usually new mods results in a decrease in mpg due to the new fun factor and heavy foot.
#15
Viper. Put the springs.
Generally, you will only get valve float under boost.
Your MPG will probly go down because it's harder to control pre-boost fooling with your foot, plus you are turning more RPM easier. What your truck used to do at 3/4 throttle, it now does at 3/8 throttle.
Merrick
Generally, you will only get valve float under boost.
Your MPG will probly go down because it's harder to control pre-boost fooling with your foot, plus you are turning more RPM easier. What your truck used to do at 3/4 throttle, it now does at 3/8 throttle.
Merrick