gunracer1

anyone have any tricks to installling the 4k rated valve springs. i am hoping there is a easier way that i am over looking. i have not seen a write up on the net for it. i already did the pump spring and it is dangerous, way too easy to spin past 3k plus.

rharveysr

You do have the 60lbs valve springs right!!!!!!


Rick

dodgeman01

I have had my 4k kit in the truck for a yeah almost and can hit 3800. never put in the 60lb valve springs yet
DM01

nevrenufhp

Wear gloves for #5 & 6 cyls. The insulation is a bit itchy if you dont. I put my gsk and valve springs in when I did the injectors and turbo housing. I do remember having to go to the parts store 3 times to find a compressor that fits under the cowl to do # 5 & 6, it's been a year & a half for me. It ended up being a cheapie that i bought and barely lasted long enough to finish those last 4 valves.

1320

Ok Gunracer.....just for you, cause you helped me plenty of times. I did mine exactly one week ago. I ve had the 400gsk in for awhile, and I just put a us gear e brake on so I had to do the valve springs. I searched and search as well.

Most of the valve spring compressors will fit with the star wheel on top. Just barely and it is ruff on your thumb for 5 and 6.

Starting with #1 you want to turn the engine until the exhuast closes and the intake just starts to open. once the intake starts to open turn it back just till it closes again so you know its not on the lobe. .........I did mine backwards, I was able to turn my engine over by hand using the fan, but only backwarks, so I turned it backwwards watching the intak open then close and stopped there. The bject is to get just before the ramp of the intake opening event. Then crank down the valve spring compressor, the assembly will fall about .250 till it hits the piston. Crank the compressor down till it stops and the spring is stacked on itself. You have just enough room to break the retainer loose and get the keepers out. Onthe install put the spring in the compressor and turn it by hand to compress the spring alittle in the compressor before you crank it down. Then crank the new spring all the way down. By turning the spring "tight" in the compressor you will get alittle more room to get the keepers in. Then do the exhuast, then do #6. #6 is by far the hardest. I just pushed the insultaion faward and back as needed. The hard part is getting the retainer to break lose and get the keepers out.

I ground down the hooks on the compressor alittle so the would get farther down in the oem springs. The clearence to the head is tight and as you turn the compressor down on the oem springs the oem spring gets tight and pushed the hooks out, but grinding then just alittle, lets them get down further so when you compress the the spring the hooks stay hooked better and you get more pull out the the compressor, so getting the retainer to break and the keepers out is easier.

Breaking the retainer lose on 5 and 6 is tuff, all I have is there is luck and alittle inginuty, like a lever on the underside of the cowl. 5 and 6 probably took 3 to 10 minutes to get to break the retainer loose. The rest you can just tap lightly with a hammer.

Then do cylinder #2 and 5 I think (check the paired cylinders, then #3 and 4 together.

The best part is, once you do #1 you know how, once you do #6 its all down hill from there. It took me about 4 hrs, with several breaks, one for dinner.