FlaCracker

When I bought my 98 Ram 12V Quadcab 3500 Dually, the previous owner had installed the 4K GSK, but never adjusted the idle. Needless to say, it wouldn't idle! Well after about 4-5 tries, I finally got it set.
The problem I am having now is it keeps falling out of adjustment. It seems like the adjustment nut is possibly loosening up. I am not sure, but suspect either the retainer adjustment nut threads are worn or possibly the stud threads are worn.
Anybody experienced this problem? Actions taken to resolve this? Is it possible to buy the retainer adjustment nut or stud separately? Thanks for the help guys, this has really been frustrating!

BigErksG2

If the threads are not torn up, just clean them off and put some good loc-tite on them.

Tate

Are you adjusting the tension on the governor springs, or adjusting the idle stop screw? I would set the idle with the screw before messing with the spring tension.

FlaCracker

It is not the idle screw. I am talking about the governor springs adjustment in the IP. This problem started after the previous owner put the 4K springs in the IP.

boughtadodge

You don't adjust the idle with the governor springs there is a adjustment for the idle on the outside of the injection pump for idle. It is a vertical bolt with a 10mm head and lock nut.

FlaCracker

I guess I am not clear on this. Forget the stupid idle screw! The problem is the governor spring, I know this for a fact! Lets get back to the subject here. I am asking if there is an answer to keeping the governor spring retainer adjusting nuts from loosening up. I am looking at using Loctite thread locker #271 or possibly purchasing the retainer nuts separately also. I hope this clears up what I am addressing here...anyone have any suggestions or experience with this issue?

Tate

There are notches in the retainer that fit the nut. When you turn the nut, it pushes the retainer down until the notches are engaged. Every half turn. More tension on the springs will keep the retainer in place. Which way are you adjusting the springs, and is there much tension on them?

I can't see loctite being the answer, especially once you adjust on side, you're gonna turn it around and stick it in an oil bath right away.

Have you taken the springs out to inspect them? There are cheap kits that use springs all wound in the same direction. They could also be using cheap quality springs. Might not be a bad idea to pull them all out and make sure they are ok.

FlaCracker

Tate, good info! I have found on my truck, the best setting is with a clearance around .005" (Retainer to stud height), about flush. I have not inspected the springs or threads on the retainer nuts or stud shafts, but am planning on doing it this weekend.

I was wondering about the design of these retainers and nuts, and how they maintained their settings. What you said makes a lot of sense and explains a lot.

I bought some Permatex Red, High-strength Threadlocker, which I will use on the threads.

I really appreciate the advice, will definitely try it this weekend!

Tate

I know every pump is different, but the stud protrusion on my springs was about .040" on my dually, and about .080" on my 12v. Yours just seems low.

Backing them will drop your idle. You might want to try tightening them up and see if you idle goes up and stays up.

FlaCracker

Thanks again, Tate. Good info.

I have found that if I go any higher than .020", the engine will stall as soon as you put it into gear, which indicates to me thatthe springs are too tight. I can compensate somewhat, by adjusting the idle screw to increase the idle, but the sensitivity issue is still there, i.e., turning the wheels dropping the idle, cold idle in gear, turning AC on. But when I loosen the springs below .020", then the issues dissapear and the truck idles fine when put in gear, even when cold, with the AC on.

NOW, get this! I now believe the adjusting nuts may not have been loosening at all! I adjusted the nuts on Monday, everything looked good, and then on Tuesday afternoon, the truck started stalling again when put in gear. Well, did not have time to mess with it til this weekend, so I turned up the idle screw, to compensate for the problem til I could time to work on it this weekend. This helped somewhat, but problem was still there.

Well I got to thinking about all this. Realizing the truck has been running good for the last two months, since when I first adjusted the governor springs, So what had changed that would suddenly cause this to happen? The only remotely related thing I could think of was that I had always used a diesel fuel treatment in my truck, but had stopped using it about two weeks ago, because I just had not reordered anymore. maybe I got some bad fuel with water in it, that coud be possibly causing the problem.

So on Tuesday, I refueled and put some diesel fuel treatment in the tank. Well it didn't make any difference at first, but on Wednesday morning, I started the truck up, and I couldn't believe it! It acted like nothing was ever wrong. It was around 45 degrees outside, but the truck idles immediately, did not have too pad the throttle while putting it in gear, and has been running great ever since.

Not sure what to think at this point, but I will keep my eye on it and keep you guys posted. Has anyone else ever seen this or experience similar fuel-related problems!

Tate

I had the opposite problem on my 24v after I did the p-pump conversion. Cold it would fire up and idle at 850-900, which is where I wanted it. As it warmed up, the idle would go to 1200-1300 rpm. I was asking questions on here, I figured it was a GSK setup to. Pump supposedly has 4k's in it that I never installed, so I have never confirmed. Anyhow, it was fine for the first four months after the conversion. It was around the 5th month that it started doing it. Ended up just backing the idle screw back. It would idle 900 hot and 750 on a cold start. Ended up to be a simple fix to an irregular problem.

FlaCracker

Ever since I started using the diesel fuel treatment again, everything is fine. The last time I readjusted the governor springs, I believe I got a better setting. In neutral or park it idles at 950 rpms, then drops to 875 rpms when put in drive or reverse. Idling great now.

dshane62

its might be the washer if they shimed the spring is to big of o.d. and touching the other spring that will make it do wierd things or they are too loose and not staying on the retainer bump . they have to be tight enough to have some tension or it will come loose mine has to have about .050 showing
above the retainer or it will loosen.

FlaCracker

NEW UPDATES! - Well, I it looks like it was neither the fuel nor the governor springs that has been causing the latest idle problem. I spent this weekend taking the retainers nuts off the governor springs, inspected the studs, retainers and threads, all looked good. I cleaned these up, re-installed with Permatex Red Threadlocker, adjusted springs and let them set over the weekend, to allow the Threadlocker to cure. Well, went out to start the truck this morning to go to work, Great! Started up, idles great, even cold. No problems, put in reverse and drive, idled great. Right around 775 rpms in gear, just the way I wanted it!
Drove around, 15 mins later, won't idle again! At this point, I do not believe it is the governor springs, I doubt they could have went out of adjustment that quick. Funny thing, above idle the truck runs great. You put in neutral, seems to idle fine. But dies, just like previously, when put in gear.
I am begining to think, more and more, that this might be a issue with the fuel overflow valve. Well, I ordered the overflow valve last week, should be in today. I will keep you guys posted!
Also, "dshane62", as for the retainer adjustment, interested point. If the overflow valve does not resolve the issue, I will probably go back and try tightening the governor springs to .050, see if that helps.

Tate

Get a pressure gauge instead of just changing parts.

Tighten your springs in a click at a time. It might be a pain with that loctite on there. Thats why they have a mechanical lock on them, so you won't be fighting to break it free.

If your stud protrusion is close to 0, don't just crank it to .050". Go in small increments.