Austin K

Hi there, This is my first post on the forums but I have been hanging around and reading for a long time now. Just never had a real reason to post until now. Anyways I finally decided to get the truck that I have been wanting for about six years now, a 5-speed 96-98 12-valve cummins. Problem is I have to find one. That might take a while but I will find what I want. I live in Carlsle, Pennsylvania and diesel guys are everywhere so I am hopeful. Anyways I dont even have the truck yet but that hasn't stopped me from catching the BOMBing bug. I have four questions but first I need you to look at the mods list, in pretty much the order that they will be completed.

KDP fix,
5th gear nut fix,
BHAF,
Straight Pipe,
Guages,
Remove turbo silencer ring,
advance timing (dont know much about this but everyone seems to love it),
clutch,
#10 plate,
3 or 4k GSK,
370's,
AFC Spring Kit(again don't know much about this but people like it so i will look into it more),
16 mm turbo housing(dont know when I will need this along the way so it will go on when necessary).

Question 1: Do i need the 16cm turbo housing with the above mods? or will the stock 12cm handle the flow?

Question 2: Will the stock clutch hold the #10 plate without any other mods?

Question 3: What kind of clutch do you all think I should get?

Question 4: Anyone have a similar setup? What dyno #'s are you getting and more importantly what MPG should I expect???

Any recomendations or things I missed? Im hoping this will give me enough power to get from A to B, after all that is all a vehicle needs to do, right?

Thanks for all your help and sorry for the long read.

~Austin K

Boondock

I will try to help you out.

1. You will be able to control your egts up until you but in the 370's. 37-'s add a lot of fuel and egts will get hot!! With the #10 slide forward they get pretty warm. If you want to use the 370's (towing, in it more than 5 seconds, etc..) you will need a different turbo. (HX-40 at the least).

2. Yes and no, still have the stock clutch in mine.... but it is starting to slip after the last plate move. I am not even 3/4 forward. It seemed to hold on the dyno though but if I slip it in racing or powershift it is down now. If the plate is forward of stock you shouldn't have any problems as long as you are not yanking 10K+ around.

3. I am either going to get a Con OFE (450/1000) or a FE (550/1100 or 1200?) OFE is smooth near stock like wear the FE is a little grabby.

4. I put down 347/812 TQ should be a lot higher but the #'s didn't start unit 2150 on the last pull (least power due to heat). Other two pulls started at 2300. With 370 and a turbo that can use all that fuel you should be in the 475+ range with the 215 pump.

I have the starwheel and housing all the way forward so my MPG suffers a little. I get 16.5-19 in all different types of driving.

I think you would be good with a #10 near all the way forward, 16cm housing, and a Con OFE if you are not doing 370s or the FE if the 370's are in the works.

if money isn't any option do a Scotty 2 instead of the BHAF. That is going in next in my truck as my BHAF is getting dirty. Supposed to lower egts some more. Can take silencer ring out at anypoint. Takes 5 minutes if that. 4" exhaust should go in there also. With the plate or not much after.

Any more question shoot. Hope that helps

Austin K

Thanks for the info. To clear a couple things up:

1. What is your opinion of getting the afc spring kit? Im not sure what all this does.
2. I would have to go with an hx-40 or better if i use the 370's? The stock with 16cm housing wouldnt work?
3. If I do anything more than use a #10 plate I will need a better clutch?

My main concern is the clutch. MNost of the stuff to give me more power isn't that expensive, until you have to buy a clutch. Those things get pricey. Is there a good one I could get for less than 1000??? If not, how much can I do until I save up that kind of cash for a good clutch?

Thanks your a great help.

Boondock

1. I don't have one yet. It is for highly fueled truck (370's and plate) although I could use it. It helps control low end power and smoke. it changes the springs in the AFC housing. I have not been in a truck with them so I am not sure..... Hear good things on the forum. Don't worry about that till you have your 370's in.

2. IMO no. If you want to stay in throttle for longer than 5 or so seconds or tow and use that power you will need more than a HX-35 and 16cm housing. An HX-35 with the 16 cm housing will work pretty well with the #10 forward. Enough fuel to spool it up and enough cooling to use the added power. Where my plate is now I need a different turbo. It gets hot pretty quick even empty. On the dyno it got real hot, first run a little over 1400, second was around 1600 and by the thrid run it cruised past 1600 had to hit 1700 if not 18!!! But I am at 7,200' at the house but the dyno was at 4800'. HX-40 will get hot also, a B-1 or HTB2 or something along those lines would be better. You are looking at a $1000+ for those!!!

3. Yes, if you start slidding the 10 forward you ill need a better clutch. It just adds to much power. No stock clutch can take 850 ft pound of tq very long. If you have the #10 back you will want to move it forward quickly. You can feel the clutch slip so you will know when it needs to be changed.

You can get a clutch for around $1000 that will hold that power. South Bend has a lot of backing. Lots of people happy with them. Con OFE will hold the power but for a little more you should go with the FE as long as you can handle the grabbyness of the clutch.
Found this place that sells them for about $200 or so under retail. http://dieselhelp.com/dodge59p7.html
The OFE is $923 and FE is $999. You have to send back your flywheel to get your $300 core deposit back.

Kurtis

Austin K

Thanks for the info. If you can please elaborate on the position on the fuel plate/ star wheel and things. I have never replaced a fuel plate myself and I dont know what the different positions do or mean, if this is in a post somewhere and that would be easier for you than please throw me a link. I havent found any simple explanations of what the positions of these things do. Thanks.

Boondock

They control the amount of fuel that the engine gets. AFC housing and starwheel control low boost levels, and before the boost comes up. If you adjust them forward towards the front of the truck you get more fuel (hence the black smoke). Fuel plate controls fuel also. Slide it forward the arm in the pump moves further forward and follows the plates contour. So plates defuel on top (#10) other don't (#4 and #6 I think) with those plates in the 215 pump we get real hot.

So more power slide the plate forward, stock is about in the middle. Little adjustment makes a huge difference. Fuel plate is underneath the AFC housing.