ram alaska

Put 4" exhaust on 02 3500 4+4 with EZ-EDGE & K&N fills like loss of power on bottom end and fuel economy seems to have gone down any ideas? thanks

danlit

Exhaust should be one of the last things done, unless your over 350hp the stock exhaust will have more snap on the bottom.<br>Now you should install larger injectors, watch egts, then turbo or EX housing upgrade if needed.<br> This will bring it all back around &amp; then some.<br> Danny

AKDSLDOG

ram alaska, welcome to DTR! danlit has made a good point, but I am still suprised to see that much of a loss, (noticable). <br><br>P.S. I live in Wasilla, where are you at? I have started a DTR chapter up here in alaska. Maybe we could hook up! 8)

ram alaska

Which Injectors would you recommend, where to get them, and how would they effect my mpg? Would I have clutch issues (have 6-speed with E-Z EDGE) ?

Big Bob

Get ahold of the THE DIESEL GOD, PIERS! He'll set you up!<br><br>I'd go with either DDII's or III's or BDII's or III's. <br><br>Gauges should be at the top of your list for mod's, and then a clutch would be in order.

Shovelhead

Rod Snaith of Wildcat Diesel Performance posted great advice on the recommended order of Mods (BOMBing) awhile ago.
Here it is:

1) gauges - Pyro, boost, fuel pressure, tranny temp
2) Fueling/Timing box - If you go with an aggressive one, keep the power turned down below the 60 HP setting (auto) or the 90 HP setting (manual)

After this, you need to decide what kind of power level you're after. If 300 ponies are going to be enough, go with an EZ in 2) and then:

3) Tranny upgrade - If you've got an automatic
4) Fueling system upgrade - high flow banjos should be plenty
5) Injectors - RV275s will get you the 300.

340 ponies:
2) Pick your favorite aggressive fueling box (Comp, PM3, FMS)
3) Tranny upgrade - pick your favorite auto or clutch
4) Fueling system upgrade - open up the lines from the stock lift pump to the injector pump
5) Air system - the stocker quits being useful at 320.
6) Injectors - again RV275s will get you to this power point.

340 and up:
2) Pick your favorite aggressive fueling box (Comp, PM3, FMS)
3) Tranny upgrade - pick your favorite auto or clutch
4) Fueling system upgrade - Pick your favorite aggressive upgrade
5) Air system - the stocker quits being useful at 320.
6) Injectors - Pick your favorite
7) 4&quot; exhaust - You may need to turn down the fueling box until you get 7 and 8 installed.
8 )Turbo - pick your favorite single or twins
9) Drugs - I dislike propane. Go nitrous

I don't recommend exhaust brakes unless you're towing, and the US Gear OD isn't all that useful unless you do cruise at 75 MPH. If you cruise at 60, your RPMs are typically too low and you fall out of the efficient running zone of the engine. ie) you likely won't see any mileage improvements.

Rod Snaith www.wildcatdiesel.com

BigBlue

I GAINED performance when I installed a 4&quot; turbo back.

quantrill88

<br><br>maybe a stupid question, but im confused... ??? does this mean ull lose power by running a straight pipe???<br><br>sorry, this just made me wonder...

NAIL BENDER

I havn't noticed any power loss from my 4&quot; either.

KATOOM

I would call Edge products first. I know that box's dont work as well on HO's but you should notice an increase. As for exhaust, that would not have anything to do with power loss. Maybe the box has opened up a fueling problem. If you have guages it would make it easier to diagnose.

Homestead

I've never had a problem with my mods. The 4&quot;, EZ and cold air intake made a large improvement in both power and mileage.

ram alaska

Edge-E-Z which setting do you recommend?

KATOOM

I dont remember exactly how the settings time the fuel curve but it has something to do with time and percentage of fuel delivered at a given boost up to 100% fueling. Setting #2 and #3 fuel earlier and at a lower boost. I read that you should stay on #1 unless you have injectors.