Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

3k gsk

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Old 04-09-2007 | 09:56 PM
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3k gsk

After months of seeing talk of this mod and hours of reading about it. I think i'm convinced that I want to do it.

Could someone give me a list of the tools i'll need,
what specific washers i'll need to buy from the hardware store, etc

I also read I can go in fron the top or the side, which is easier?

any help would be awesome so i can go get the washers and hopefully do this tomorrow.

oh...and will this plant me in my seat from a stop? or will I only feel the results at WOT?
Old 04-09-2007 | 11:14 PM
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This should cover the install of it.
http://piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm

As for thickness, I bet Gunracer1's thread has that listed in the first couple posts. I think the thread is title Free GSK for the p-pump bunch.
Old 04-10-2007 | 02:15 AM
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Don't expect too much from the mod. It's not going to plant you in your seat or anything like that. Especially if you have a stock transmission, you're not going to be able to drive it much harder than stock otherwise you could blow it. The throttle becomes a lot more sensitive and apparently you can fuel up to 3200 rpm's or so. I never go that high myself. Go in from the side, get 2 washers that are exactly the same. I forgot the washer sizes I used but I posted them in the thread Tate mentioned above. I took my time and did it. Worked the first time and never had a problem. Didn't even have to re-adjust my idle. I recommend getting the washer sizes I got from Ace hardware.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ree+washer+mod
Old 04-10-2007 | 02:38 AM
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I know my 3k I bought from TST when I first put it in sure had me doing this-- I dont know, maybe yours didnt make a lot of difference, but my truck was a whole new machine. I have the 4k now, and like it even better.

Eric
Old 04-10-2007 | 03:49 AM
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Well I don't really gun it off the line. I will be able to one day hopefully.
Old 04-10-2007 | 05:24 PM
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so i'm just gonna run through my understanding on how to go about doing this until i just get lost...

unbolt intake manifold
remove fuel shutoff solenoid from pump
remove plug
roll engine over to expose adjusting nut
measure how far down the nut is on the stud with calipers
remove the nut and note # of clicks

**heres where I get lost**

Do I just put a washer on top of the springs? or do I take everything out?

If i take everything or anything out, how many springs should I be removing?



i'm probably making a huge deal out of nothing but I dont want to screw anything up or wind up with a non working truck cause I dont have any diesel buddies around here to help a brother out!

just another quick question tho.
after this is done, and I go to step on the pedal....are my rpms gonna shoot from 900 (idle) to 2000 instantly? cause my neighbors hate me already and my strait pipe screams rolling out of my parking spot at 1300rpm, so is that 1300rpm roll gonna turn into a 2000rpm roll?

if im completely wrong someone shine some light on the topic
Old 04-10-2007 | 06:28 PM
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Just follow the directions closely and make sure that you messure correctly,believe me this was one of the best mods that was done yet to my truck and you will love it.
Old 04-10-2007 | 06:43 PM
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youll need a plate to get the full effect, the stock plate defuels on the top end and thats the point of the gsk, to take you to the top end, but even then on a 215 i dont think they show as much like on the smaller pumps, well on mine it didnt, but it is still worth doing. just saw you mention the washer so i guess youll be doing the free gsk, that might be different however you do it make sure you take good measurements if you get it right you wont have to adjust throttle
Old 04-10-2007 | 06:44 PM
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oh yeah dont drop anything
Old 04-10-2007 | 06:54 PM
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I did my free gsk. I just bought 1/2 inch washers from advanced auto parts. Its real easy. Just set the clicks right. Its not a huge difference but it can be a huge difference if you add injectors, fuel plate ect.
you can also slide the afc housing forward and the stock fuel plate for more power while your in there.
Old 04-10-2007 | 06:54 PM
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Yeah, don't drop anything. Get a mechanic's magnet before you start. You put the washers on top of the springs and under the nut (click thingy). No need to take everything out. You'll see when you get into it. Measure the stud portrusion. Counting the # of clicks is a good idea too but you'll probably lose track. Also, I recommend super gluing the washers to the nut before you put it back in. Otherwise, it'll keep getting misaligned and you might end up putting in the washer a little crooked. That's where your truck might run funny.
Old 04-10-2007 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cumminsdriver635
I know my 3k I bought from TST when I first put it in sure had me doing this-- I dont know, maybe yours didnt make a lot of difference, but my truck was a whole new machine. I have the 4k now, and like it even better.

Eric
What he said

But once you get bored with 3K, skip 4K and go with 5.5K These springs ROCK!!!

A little difficlt to get tuned, but I'll get them eventually
Chris
Old 04-10-2007 | 08:26 PM
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Never heard of those!
Old 04-10-2007 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by signature600
What he said

But once you get bored with 3K, skip 4K and go with 5.5K These springs ROCK!!!

A little difficlt to get tuned, but I'll get them eventually
Chris
Bah, 5.5s??? Real men take all the springs out and just cut a piece of pipe, 8 grand baby!!!

Old 04-11-2007 | 07:42 AM
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Sure you can...

But after hearing 5500, I wouldn't want to spin one much faster without doing some major work on the bottom end! Heck, I don't spin mine over 4K under power () since it's still a stock bottom end!

Chris


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